gotasuby

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Everything posted by gotasuby

  1. A vf32 will work fine as a secondary? Why they say it won't work? What problems does your car have.
  2. Vf33 is only rev d primary. It's bigger inlet and outlet. Vf32 is secondary. You need a 31 and 32. Well you could use any secondary apart from a vf14 would bolt on. Secondary turbos don't usually fail only primary ones
  3. After a drive with using the brakes very much are any of the brakes hot?
  4. I'm not 100 percent sure as I live in the south island where there is only bp 98. I have been told by multiple people that Mobil is ethanol blended
  5. Mobil 98 has ethanol in it which should help lower combustion Temps. It will run a tiny bit leaner but nothing to worry about if tune is good. Mobil 98 should cause no issues
  6. Factory maps are meant to be around 18psi and drop to 13.5 so yours is round the mark.
  7. Eagle rods in both. Arp head bolts in both. Standard ones. Did 30000km in the 2.5 with 33psi road only. The 28psi one has done a season of rally and a year of drags plus daily street duty.
  8. We have done a few up to 33psi. 28psi is only one still going at the moment. Making 350wkw. Not much done to engine in the scheme of things. Forged Pistons, rods, head studs, cams and a light polish. The 33psi one was my old car. Snapped a forged rod. Never put on the dyno so don't know power. Was a few years ago. Would light up all 4 wheels in 4th Round ruapuna corners though, but triangle tyres prob didn't help.
  9. We can do either way. We are more than happy to do touch up work or full tunes. Obviously you have tuned yours so would be silly to do a whole tune again. Have you got a power figure out of yours? Or only been road tuning?
  10. V11 sti. Only mods are 3 port boost solinoid, 3" exhaust and fuel pump. Ran out of injectors. Running 20psi tapering up top. Red is before and grey after.
  11. Factory ecu. Before it was tuned the boost was only low and then creeped. We but a 3 port mac valve on it and tuned the boost control. All on 95 fuel to.
  12. A 3.0r without opening the motor you will struggle to get more than 185wkw. That's with full exhaust, intake, fueling upgrades and ethanol. 2.0 turbo will make that with a downpipe, and tune nearly.
  13. It's only their family car so not after much more. It's good fun in first haha
  14. Boost is 17psi. No plot. Out of fuel. Only 440cc blues
  15. 2006 forester. 2.5l stock everything apart from exhaust and td05-16 along with Mac 3 port boost solenoid. Red is before as factory ecu was having mare and boost creep.
  16. Remember this is not 98 and is running ethanol. I would say 15-20kw at a guess. Had a gtr on dyno on weekend that was 475hp in rwd with fuse out and 435hp in awd if that's an example?
  17. No I don't sorry. Only the 20g above but I wouldn't expect too much difference apart from slightly faster spool and slightly less power
  18. No. Dyno apply load to stop acceleration and then when the compressor slips it reduces torque which slows down dyno as not that fast reacting and you get a loop. Only happens on massive changes in torque, I could slow down ramp rate so it not so violent but I set all mine the same so they can be as compared as best as possible
  19. Only thing changed on setup was long block so I would say mostly avcs
  20. This is a completely standard v7 sti long block with a td05-20g on it. All running on e80. Apart from compressor surge which you can see at start of run. Red dashed line is same car/setup running v3-4 sti engine. Note with v7 sti long block spool is about 900rpm sooner. Reason power is high is because it's in a saker that is running a 5 speed box setup mid engine rear wheel drive with centre diff locked and front diff supplying power to rear wheels.
  21. Check grounds and the cam and crank wiring. Have you got 1 or other trigger signals when cranking?
  22. My bad haha. And yes they are close enough to work. My 6 speed conversion used a 5 speed one in my bg5
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