spark_38

lol i need 'two' done.... sitting in my garage

not even a cd player... that is wrong! probably no speakers either

anyone keen to swap their Pioneer P80RS or P80RSII for an Alpine CDA9887 with iPod high speed cable? The Pioneer must also have the iPod controller cable... and unit in reasonable condition, prefably with manuals maybe i'm using the wrong forums...lol

welli need to organize a dB exhaust day... quite a few of us here have reasonable exhausts which would sh!t on the 95dB mark... i have no idea how quiet/loud mine is - maybe 95.2dB at a guess

I found out in the weekend that the factory relay is rated at 22A - just the more reason to use a thicker wire to minimise voltage drops - a proper crimp joint almost has near zero resistance/voltage drop across it, whereas a bad soldier joint does - hence why crimp terminals are preferred

yip as with most electrical systems the cleaner the feed to the source the better. alternators, starter motors, fuel pumps, ignition system are just the main ones to look for - straight off the battery you'll usually get between 13.8 and 14.4V with the car running - turn on the headlights and A/C and it may drop slightly 0.5V or so, throw in 1500W or so of amps and you get another small drop; probe your multimeter around the various sources and you'll be surprised at the differences

It probably wouldn't make much difference running directly to pump - i didn't see much more benefit as it involved going through the rubber grommet, outside the car in between the tank and back up... too much hassle, and the last bit only runs about 30cm or so The factory relay is located behind the fusebox in the 1998 Ver 4 upwards, remove the fusebox and you'll spot the 3 relays mounted on a bracket, it is the bottom one with the green plug. Ver 3 and below it is above the fusebox and a bit trickier to get to - you have to unbolt the fusebox anyway and move a few other bits around to gain access, unless you running the immobilizer to the relay trigger wire at the same time I would recommend cutting it a bit lower as i struggled to get my crimping tool in there

Name: Jason Age: 27 Location: Wellington (the cool group...) Occupation: Electronics and Instruments Technician Subarus: Current: 1998 V4 Type-R coupe, Previous: 2002 V8 WRX STi, 1997 WRX V-Limited wagon 292/555, 1995 WRX wagon Length of Subaru Ownership: About 2-1/2 years

I think they had their K-bands out in the hutt tonight - a mate said his picked it up just as he passed it... mine went mad as we were passing the new dowse interchange just before the petone turnoff. Those new neon overhead traffic signs are also annoying as they set the radars off too.

yip all speaker wires are common at the amp connector. I haven't pulled the amp apart to see whats actually connected inside - but i suspect it's only a 2.1 channel amp and there is no output going to the rear speakers... the rear speakers may be commonly wired at the headunit end as a provision for different factory units - one to employ a 4.1 channel amp, for example - in which case the headunit wouldn't give any output at all to the speakers

the front speakers and sub are amped thru the amplifier under the seat the rear ones are straight pass. it pays to rewire them anyway. Ignore the DIN connector on the amplifier Look at the amp - its the connector that looks like the standard subaru wiring loom that is of interest - buy another clip on one and you'll find the speaker pin-outs are the same. It is a lot easier than having to remove the seat and crimp the wires separately (as i found out the hard way) Run the 4 sets of speaker wires from the connector to the one you already have coming from behind the factory headunit - or place ur aftermarket amp under the drivers seat if ur planning on running aftermarket speakers at a later stage, makes the wiring a lot easier/tidier

Me (x1). Law's Rd last year Nov 2008. I was a bit embarrassed to admit at first. But i have followed in the footsteps of many! Mine was due to detonation: poor fuelling and the use of a boost tap which caused spiking. That is all sorted now with an aftermarket ECU mappping the fuel and boost levels and other stuff

yeah the blue ones look 'cool' but i found better visibility with the normal Narva Plus 50, 55/60W ones. esp when driving at night

the new narva arctic white ones look cool. a bit expensive though, but still rated at 55/60W so should be legal

Anyone running extensive mods in their normally stock standard wrx or upgrading their fuel pump to the ever popular Walbro 550hp pumps should consider this simple mod The factory fuel pump feed wires have a voltage drop of 0.2 - 0.3V from the relay to the fuel pump, losses also occur between the two or so connector plugs: one behind the kickpanel and the other under the rear seat Step 1: locate the relay and the feed line, usually black with either a yellow or red stripe, cut as close as possible to relay plug and attach a 8 gauge or 10 gauge wire. It wouldn't hurt to also obtain a clean power feed straight from battery to relay (fused about 30A or so). Step 2: cut the factory pump feed wires after the plug so as to minimise the connections and the length of the higher resistance factory wiring. i have used bullet terminals here for ease of connection, butt connectors are just as good - i do not recommend soldering 8 gauge wire, unless you have a blowtorch or similar - dry joints do not conduct as well. Run the ground wire to a clean metal point and keep as short as possible - it is ok for the ground to be slightly thicker than power (but not vice versa). From this simple mod (about $5 in cables & connectors), the fuel pump gets a clean 13.56V feed. Prior to this i was only getting about 12.83V - sometimes less. Note how thin the factory wires are in comparison

Yeah i wonder if mac uses the MODE1, MODE2 or UDF writing format on data disks as some systems won't read some formats. Are the disks a single session, closed as well

there's that many of us going up from welli, i don't think space is going to be an issue.... i may even have room in the coupe if anyone wants something from welli-lower/upper hutt areas

Yip easy as to do with motor still in car... remove obstacles: airbox/pod filter on left, battery/waterspray bottle on right, spark plug leads/coil packs on older models Pop 6x 10mm bolts off and covers should pop off easily with a gentle pry Replace the 6 rubber washer things at the same time as they sometimes leak/seep too A bit of gasket glue on the half moon thingys and near the oil seals doesn't hurt either - not too much that it'll go back into the motor with covers in place of course i cheated and done this with the motor out, but you get the general idea...

I too rate the Pioneer headunits quite highly over any other brand... so wished i had obtained the P-80RS (II) when they were on sale a while back for $500 I've used the older 7650 and 5850 and were generally quite pleased with both, esp the ease of operation

Japanese 6.5" (16cm) speakers will fit. i.e. Pioneer, Sony, JVC... American 6.5" speakers i.e. Alpine, Rockford Fosgate, Boston, JBL... which are true 6.5" (17cm) will not fit and require aftermarket spacers Most subaru speakers manufactured after 1998 are a single one-piece molded plastic spacer/speaker, so u need spacers anyway A lot of manufacturers also do a multi-fit OEM speaker usually in the form of a 2-way coaxial designed to fit factory locations. Wagons generally have 6.5" in front doors and 4" in the rear ones

I'm using an Alpine CDA-9887 with the full speed ipod cable (**which uses an ana-logue signal from ipod). Got it for $650 a while back with the cable. while it controls the ipod i find it at times a bit fidgety to use esp when acesssing the playlists, etc. I'd personally prefer the Pioneer P-80RSII though at around the same price when i got mine, much nicer looking headunit. The only issue i have with the alpine is the cheap chinese build - the print on the skip buttons are worn out in under 6 months use. I've used a few Pioneer units in the past and they just felt better built - they do start at the 8xxx series though the basic 5 and 6 series look nasty. **the sound from the ipod is very noticable in comparison to playing normal CD's which sound a LOT better

yeah i generally have them... easy as to wire up... and the apexi, greddy, hks, etc. ones can often be had on trademe about $30 so cheap as! 4 wires are the most common ones: Black (ground) Red (+12V) Blue (accessory) Green (ignition) some 3 wire models skip the Blue accessory wire which keeps the stereo and possibly fans going

yeah my mates link plus G3 differs - it is not direct plug 'n' play... it has an adaptor loom with PCB to the link from the factory harness. my possumlink otoh is plug 'n' play.

BP Lower Hutt (melling) also seems back in stock and a few cents cheaper too at $1.77/L I just filled up

i've used the wynns stuff... it's usually on clearance at the warehouse... i wonder why? it seems ok