Stoffa

Fixed m turbo oil drain leak today, did it from underneath on the hoist, heaps easier than taking the turbo off, just popped off the drive shaft and dropped the arm out of the way. Also plumbed in my oil cooler with a sandwhich plate and braided line set up, goes good, gets fricken hot though. It now takes 6 litres of edge 10w60 i.e more than one bottle, lucky im high roller. Bring on the track day!!

just give them a copy of my sheet ;D

There you go, took some pics while fixing my car today, I love having a hoist to use!! See if you can spot the Spec C parts

Mine should work better as my Fujitsubo exhaust is pretty straight which is probably what your after for better flow

oooh dirty NA

Mines up on a hoist tomorrow, I can snap a few pics

Thats pretty much what im running, vf36 with ported P20 and its bloody quick. I think with proper headers it get over 230kw, sitting at 222kw at the moment on a safe tune

is that oil temp? mine sits about 10* lower than that but reacts the same, how accurate is your gauge?

+1 I had all 3 plumbed to a can with no vacuum on the crank case and I was using 3 litres of oil in less than 5000km on a brand new engine. Too much crank case pressure can cause a pressure build up between the rings, especially if running higher boost than factory, the pressure escapes on the wrong side of the rings and takes oil with it. Once I plumbed my PCV and breather back into the intake I stopped using oil. IMO the best way is to use an air oil seperator or a closed loop catch can that still has vacuum on the outlet. Im currently using an SM motorsports AOS similar to the grimmspeed and prova ones but it doesn\'t work that well. ...and before anyone shoots me down, some people dont have any issues running with a can vented to atmosphere, but it sure smells bad!!

I went with ACL Race and got the HX series for bigger clearances

Im running -2* in the front without extra camber bolts and running factory top hats, handles well and only get slight extra camber wear, but I also run zero toe front and rear which helps wear. running -1.5* in the back

does your trailor run on 98? ;D

not for long.....they\'re swapping over on Monday...insider trading

a profec b spec 2 works very well but you need to be pretty switched on to be able to tune them correctly

Instead of taking it to my mates workshop to fix my leaking turbo oil drain and giving it a service I ended up cleaning the vomit off the baby seat in the back and stuck at home with a sick little boy

It makes me stop wondering why my $20K rebuild was making less power than yours.

to block the sun dumb asses ;D

I checked at work, no jobs booked to swap melling over, if it happens my company will do the swap over.

I think you\'ll be good with either, they both have a good rep, my car was repaired at bodyworks and they did an awesome job p.s I used to work at blair wright panel and paint so I can spot a shit job

are you sure? Im got some there last week. jville mana and both porirua sites are definitely still selling it

BNT sell after market ones to fit almost anything about $100 a pair

Bled the brakes and fitted my new track rims

oh, do the small bits make it through still?

thats what I thought, but it does have Big16G dimensions. I did have the choice of quite a few but 18G and 20G wheels looked like exact copies of genuine wheels and dont think I would have tried putting a taiwanese 3071 into an expensive garret core. Think I\'d much rather test the waters with a cheap and cheerful TD05. if it lets go at 1.5 bar probably the worst that might happen is damage my FMIC core

The not round bit is where material has been removed to balance it. Got a turbo specialist checking it out later this week to see what he thinks