Stoffa

but keep in mind the rails mount differently as well

If you dont know dont try it yourself. Pay someone to reshim your clearances properly.

just an idea of price, I got quoted $80 per rim in wellington, they do quality work though

hmmmm, thats what i've got, although mine has a diagonal bar and I'm getting proper plates welded to the floor where it bolts on. still better than no cage, and great for a street car that can be used on the track

GFB hybrid ones are wicked, I use mine plumbed back on the street and put the extra trumpet in to let more air out at the track

Thanks, I knew the rest of the stuff already. Was just wondering about the controller as the only info I could find was putting DCCD into a car that didn't come with it.

haha, what do you think I should do with my old box and 2 R180 diffs? not doing the swap, well not yet, just figuring stuff out

You said "from pressure gauge on sensor side" ?? do you mean the cable from your pressure sensor? [quote name='Stoffa said: Oil Pressure Guage Yellow = Lights 12v+ Red = 12v+ (switched ignition) White = White on the black box Blue/White = Earth AND connected to Blue/White on black box Oil Pressure Sensor Blue = Blue on black box Yellow = White on black box Red = 12v+ (switched ignition) Black = Black in the black box The extra Black wire that runs with the oil pressure sensor loom connects to the wire that WAS connected to your old factory oil pressure switch. The other end of the black wire connects to the black wire in the black box. This is the bit that makes your ECU think the original pressure switch is still connected so it doesn't throw up a fault code. Are all the colours of your wires the same as mine? I'm not sure what you mean, this should be enough info to connect it up working

Can anyone tell me if I swapped my gearbox from my v5 sti type r (with DCCD) to a 6 speed(with DCCD), can I still use my factory DCCD controller? Does it just plug straight in or is there something special that needs to be done?

just put 2 pages of GC8's, you know they're the best looking anyway

what the??!!!?!!!?!

I vote this one and of course I vote for me

Kevin is awesome to deal with, I got an oil cooler off him a few months ago for my GC8, quality stuff. I just rang him and he charged it to my credit card

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-248774439.htm they also make a 3 way one, based in aussie, good products but they refuse to admit or let people know they will have cert issues with their intercooler kits

look more like leaking rocker cover gaskets to me, but that doesn't explain the over heating.

If you want to do it on the cheap, i've got a water pump off V5 sti thats only done 2000km's before I ran a bearing and killed my engine. $40 and its yours. You should be doing cambelt, waterpump, cam and crank seals all at once, Ichi ban would be alot cheaper than going to subaru and he's subaru trained

if you do repair, when you pull off the oil pump make sure you replace the O ring behind it as well as removing all the screws on the back cover and if the pump is ok make sure you thread lock them in

I already told you how /\ /\ | | At a guess I'd say it may be lithium grease you use Just make sure you remove the springs from the struts before undoing the nut It IS as easy as it sounds

Take your car somewhere else for a second opinion, those style of inverted struts all have play in them and even knock when there is nothing really wrong with them. If you look at your shock, the big chunky chrome shaft is not actually a shaft but the housing of the insert, the shaft is only about 20mm in diameter and sticks through the bottom of the strut housing and is held inplace by a nut. So the end of the shaft is held in place and the body of the inset actually moves. There are 2 slides inside the housing of the strut that are loaded up with grease, these slides get some wear and allow the strut to have some play You can't get them rebuilt, well at least you couldn't when I was looking into it, because the shaft has a strange diameter size and they cant get new slides for the inside of the housing. Yes that retail price is correct for factory STi ones, they're made by KYB and all tied up under contract so only subaru can sell them. One of my good friends bought a second hand set out of a V8 Sti that had only done 50,000kms and they knocked too. You can simply pull them off the car and undo the nut underneath the strut and slide the insert out them regrease the inside of the housing (with special grease), this helps the problem and sometimes the knocking goes away. The knocking can be a little annoying but your struts are probably fine as long as the inserts are not leaking. Talk to someone in the workshop at Autolign in Auckland (they do all the rebuilds on bilsteins and are them only authorised rebuilders in NZ)

i'm pretty sure a 2.2 litre crank has the same stroke as 2.0 (75mm) and just use a bigger bore diameter. You would need a 2.5 crank (79mm) with centre thrust bearing, which uses 48mm big end bearings. here's a little reading http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283769&highlight=stroker I would go with Kooms advice as your only going to end up with just over 100cc extra displacement, $2600 for a brand new EJ257 short block saves alot of time and money and have been proved to run over 300 kw atw. I'm in the middle of a very expensive build at the moment and if I had my time over again I would have just gone with 2.5

i'm looking at going to higher lift and longer duration cams http://www.camshaftshop.co.nz/index.php/EJ20-Non-AVCS-Version-5-6/199-C-Camshaft/camshaftshop_view.tpl.html I've been reading up as much info as I can and some people suggest going shimless once you get that much lift, I'm trying to get the car to rev hard all the way to redline(if my current turbo will still make power up there). So hopefully going shimless will stop any chance the shims slipping out of place at high RPM. Also when I was talking to the guys at possum borne they mentioned it as a good upgrade. Although when I talked to one of the guys at Kelford he did say i'd only need to upgrade the springs and the factory shims and retainers would be fine. But my car has kind of got to the point where I "do it once, do it right"

shim under I think, V5 Sti. well the shims are between the retainer and the bucket

I'm sure you should be able to find some stuffed V7 heads at some stage, then you'd maybe get half of the sizes you need and only have to buy half new. I'll be looking for some now to go with my new cams

can V7 sti onward shimless buckets be used in V5/6 sti heads?

the one on the right is the map sensor, thats the important one, just make sure thats connected and a vacuum line attached to the manifold and everything will be fine.