IZichard
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Posts posted by IZichard
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Firstly check the park light switch on top of the steering column is switched off. It’s is very easy to accidentally turn this switch on and is by far the most common cause of a battery drain in a Subaru.
Definitely take it to an auto sparky, it is a 5 min check with a multimeter to work out if the draw is within a normal range and the alternator is charging properly. The battery will need to be fully charged first.
If it does have a draw it can be slightly more time consuming to find the cause but luckily for you it is a subaru not a euro so more than likely the draw would be related to an aftermarket accessory rather than factory wiring which makes it much easier to find.
Hope that helps, I deal with this kind of thing a lot at work.
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1 hour ago, ginganinja said:
Ok that is interesting. I would be interested to see photos of how it is now. I had my cat sitting on blocks when I tried to fit the k brace and it didnt look like it was going to be even close to bolting up.
Looks like I still have one thin washer and you can see the slight bend in the k brace. This is at ride height and you can see there is heaps of clearance. At full droop there is less clearance but I made sure there is still some.
The marks on the control arm are not from contact they are from when I used the pry bar.
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I have both an Anti Lift Kit and a Cusco K brace on my GC8.
I initially used a washer to space down the rear mount enough to clear. I later revisited the issue, bolted it down without the washer and just bent the K brace a small amount with a pry bar so it had clearance. The issue only occurs at full suspension droop so there really doesn't need to be much clearance as this only happens when the wheels are off the ground.
Here is a photo of my initial solution but I think bending the K brace slightly is a tidier result. I don't have a photo post bend but I can get under the car and take one if you still aren't sure.
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I took advantage of all this extra time at home and gave the daily wagon a really good deep clean inside and out. Also cleaned the engine bay. The paint on this poor car is in such a sorry state with all the clear coat failure and rock chips
I'm not really sure if it is worth trying to repaint part/all of the car or just leave it.
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@itsmitchlowe
I’m interested in all 4 axles if you are happy to ship them to the South Island. -
1 hour ago, cnicolson said:
Sorry mate, I should have been more obvious in the original post. The right hand side exit is actually fake and there is no flow through it. It's just there to fill in the bumper gap and I like the look of the quad tip with out dropping $1400 on a q300.
Never the less I think I'll grab an adrenaline R resonator and see how that goes.
Cheers!
Yeah I read that but then I saw the picture and it looked like it was actually connected. Just be careful to measure up and get one that will fill the gap nicely, it will save you a bunch of headache when fitting it. -
That is a very interesting exhaust setup.
I would imagine the missing muffler on one side is causing a large amount of the noise since it is just a straight pipe from the turbo.
Adding a resonator in the middle would be a good start but you will definitely need to have proper muffling at the rear if you want to really reduce the volume.
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Can you post a couple pictures of under the car so we can see how it has been done.
I am a big fan of the results I’ve had from adrenalinR products. I have used them on two cars and both times they made a solid reduction in volume. They definitely change the tone making the note a fair bit deeper which you may like but it does also strip some of the spool noises from the exhaust.
Obviously the longer the resonator the greater the reduction in volume. You will probably be able to fit a 400 or maybe 450mm one into the section in front of the rear diff but it really depends on how it has been done.
Also you can purchase their products directly from their website.
http://www.adrenalinr.com/productdetail.php?productID=530
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Talk to Race Shock Specialists in Auckland, they are the NZ distributor so you won’t have to deal with customs.
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https://mcasuspension.com/products
MCA have redone their website to reflect the new products and complete lineup. Worth checking out since they have their new Voston Mach1/Mach2 which I guess is designed to compete with cheaper alternatives. It also explains the 'elite' products and how they differ from the standard.
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50 minutes ago, mrbuchanan said:
Where can you get Tactrix cables in NZ? Or is it something that I'd have to get from the states?
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11 minutes ago, YoungOne said:
Yeah 8/6k on mine, be interested to see what you think
Yeah after weighing the options I decided the street performance 7/5k would be best for the weekend/street driving the car does. I talked to Anthony at RSS in Auckland, paid for and ordered a set, then got an email back from Anthony saying MCA didn't want to supply them to NZ. They offered me the Ultimates with the spring rates I wanted for a very small amount more so I went with that.
I'm also keen to try them out on the somewhat bumpy roads around the south. If you say yours is only a little stiffer than stock with the dampening turned down I guess my setup should be close to stock albeit with less travel. I'll write up my thoughts in my garage thread once i've run them through their paces. I don't have a huge amount of experience with other aftermarket 'coilovers' other than a small amound of driving in a GGB with BC golds and the tein/hks that were in my wagon when i bought it.
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13 minutes ago, Niran said:
Ooooooh very nice! Which ones>?
Was going to get the street performance but MCA didn’t want to supply that model to overseas customers. So I ended up getting the Street Ultimate with 7kg front and 5kg rear, which are the spring rates from the street performance for a GC8.
Slightly softer than @YoungOne who has 8/6k on his ultimates iirc.
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Got a set of MCA suspension on the way for the GC8. Very excited 😁
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@liddcaTake me for a ride in it this Sunday after highlands and I’ll let you know what I think.
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51 minutes ago, McMatty said:
Took the "new" legacy for a warrant and it failed! Someone has cut the speaker holes too big in the parcel tray and too close to the seatbelt mount, so now it needs a "panel beater report" and none of the ones in Rotorua will do it. Bought another crap heap. Fml
Sent from my SM-A530F using Tapatalk
Damn that is a bummer. How much material has been cut out? At least you know you have a very thorough wof inspector.
Today I painted the side trim pieces on my GC8 which were peeling to the chrome underneath like they all do. Also painted the crappy faded wiper arms while I was at it. Car looks much less old and weathered now!
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So unfortunately I cannot get the time off work to drive all the way up to Flatnats this year but I still want to make it out there. I'm thinking of flying up but this could only work if someone who is planning on attending both days would want to let me tag along with them in their car. I could just uber everywhere but that does seem anywhere near as fun.
I would be happy to swing some fuel-money/banter/beers in exchange. I'm thinking of flying up to Auckland on Friday night and leaving on Sunday night.
Also if anyone wants to lend a couch/carpet for me to sleep on that would be even more awesome, i'm not fussy.
I haven't booked anything yet
Let me know if you can offer any of the above and I would be forever grateful, cheers lads.
EDIT:
Unfortunately I’m not going to be able to make this happen, I am a bit gutted to miss a year but hope everyone has a good weekend.
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3 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
You mean before the insulation starts separate the inner strands enough to get goo between them all?
Most rtv will break down when exposed to fuel so I wouldn't recommend that. Usually when that happens you would need to replace the sensor but your solder idea sounds like it could work.
The same thing happens with the avcs cam sensors where they leak internally and force oil up the wire between the copper and the insulator. If you don't do anything about it the fluid will keep going along the wire until the next point it can escape.
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https://www.google.com/maps/placelists/list/TcDwaoiqWuTdb9IXYZREEEkTUHBOAA?hl=en
Speaking of npd 100 octane, when I did a road trip around the South Island a couple months ago I compiled a google maps list of all the npd stations with 100 available.
I thought someone else may also find this useful.
Most of these stations I have been to and can verify they do have 100 octane. The only one I am unsure about is npd Mossburn.
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50 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Battery packs are a good way but driving enough to charge it afterwards is the hard part. Power magic pro just turns it off based on time or voltage after the ignition is turned off which is what works best for me.
Yeah after reading a little more about it that does sound like a better solution. I'll probably pick one up in the future, cheers for the recommendation.
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38 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
Nice, 1 or 2 channel?
What option did you go with for power? One of the battery packs or the power magic switch module?
The option to view low quality vids in the app is bloody handy to keep transfer time down when just wanting a quick gander. Loving my one so far.
Just the one channel, I thought the rear camera would annoy me in the rearview. The front one I can hide behind the mirror.
Just coming on with ignition at this stage but i'm thinking of a battery pack in the future. I live in a pretty safe area and park right outside work during the day so there isn't much risk of something happening while i'm not around.
Yeah I went for the wifi over a cam with a crappy little screen as it seemed like it would be much easier to use.
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Picked up a dashcam for the Wagon. Went with the Blackview DR590w.
I'm pretty happy with the quality of everything, I haven't looked at any of the footage yet. I'll probably hide the wiring under the dash this weekend.
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It is possible to make an HKS turbo timer work with an alarm if the alarm is compatible with turbo timers. It depends on the model of alarm how the alarm and turbo timer need to be setup to function properly.
I have both an alarm and hks turbo timer in my STi. The if the turbo timer is set you can lock the car with the remote, it will keep running until the timer runs out then the alarm will fully arm. If someone were to open the door while the timer was running the car immediately shuts off and the alarm sounds.
I would recommend finding the model of alarm you have installed and reading the manual for it.
Does the HKS actually power on with the ignition, but won't keep the car running when the key is removed?
Here is the wiring diagram for the turbo timer if it helps.
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My v7 STi wagon has been intermittently doing a similar thing, it will crank for 5-6 seconds before it actually sparks and fires. Like you said I always prime the fuel pump beforehand but it makes no difference.
In my case I tried experimenting with cam and crank sensors since i thought it may be a sync issue but that did not help.
It seems like the ecu is not sending an injection or spark signal until it has been cranking for quite a while. My car does it really intermittently (maybe once a month) so it has been difficult for me to diagnose.
I did wonder if I had a leaky injector that was causing it to flood when shut of and only clear after cranking for a while.
Sorry I don’t have an answer for you but I’m very interested to hear if you find anything.
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I'm not really sure if it is worth trying to repaint part/all of the car or just leave it.-
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BP outside front tyre wear
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
That’s only true if the contact patch of the tyre is completely flat on the road.
Toe exaggerates the wear pattern from the camber. If you have 3 degrees of negative camber on a straight flat road doesn’t matter toe in or toe out you will have inside edge wear.
In an overly simplified explanation the camber decides where the wear will occur, the toe decides how fast/significant the wear will be. The exact specifics of wheel alignments are a lot more complicated with toe curves, vehicle loading and tyre rollover. Everything about wear changes once you start pushing the car around corners.
Like @boon said even with a perfect alignment with a Subaru you will probably end up with some inside edge wear on the fronts. They are a bit front heavy and you need to run some static negative in the front for the car to drive well in the bends so it compromises the wear a little.
Can you post up the wheel alignment sheet?