pl0x

Whirring sound coming from the gearbox area when slowing between 40-90kph, louder when engine braking, clutch in or out of gear not as loud but still noticeable. Car is B4 rwd with 234kw Anyone had similar issue, what was it? My guess is its a bearing (fingers crossed on a center diff bearing) but why only noisey when slowing?

I just tapped mine into i/c piping, 3bond'd the thread and careful not to screw the sensor in to tight Works fine

22, just qualified as a civil engineer after 4 years working & studying teenage summers working for my uncle stripping cars and changing tyres (not dodgy ;D, hes a mechanic/towie/wrecker) onto my 7th car, 4 of being subarus - 3 single turbo legacys with links. Done everything myself bar tuning & rebuilding. Learnt from dyi, helping mates & reading interwebs

2.0L faster and better on gas according to various people

oil temps? but yea i didn't want to go for a bigger scoop so FM it was

afaik pcv sucks air in when in vacuum but closes when on boost, so what you have is a vac leak

from factory it straight feeds it back into your intake, and it effectively lowers octane rating (least that's what I was told) baffled catch can that has a drain, feeding back to intake would be the way to go (for a road car anyway) stop smell and catch some of the blow by mine with a filter has a bit of smell when you turn the heater on, and when drained it comes out murky brown

Legacy B4, single turbo vf22 @ 15psi with V5 wrx topmount, car was making about 190wkw on this tune High temps could be due to small scoop, wrx Y pipe etc etc. my intake temps with the factory top mount were hitting 70c+ (18c ambient) from just a 1st-4th pull. below data log: Now with front mount in its sitting at a lot more constant temp, 34c was the highest it saw after a few pulls (16c ambient). below data log:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mitsubishi/auction-445653002.htm seats I don't mind, but fuck me that roof...

engine done 210kms? I wouldn't touch it

You try something similar to what a guy in the link did?

Sorry dude can't remember, from looking at photos it appears the bigger ones are around the pin. some good photos in here also: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=40266&start=25

as for part numbers, as you know I got the wrong one from wingers. Need to talk to someone onto it like boostin to get correct numbers

phase 1 boxes need the spring, phase 2 don't for phase 1 - The spring holds the gear in the middle of neutral, no spring and the gear stick flops (in neutral) between what would be 1st & 3rd Phase 2 have a internal spring or something if that makes sense?

will there be any remove for sender once hose clamps are involved?

Don't people Re-cap injectors to get better atomisation? (different caps still providing higher flow)

fair call, yup flag that but other than that i don't know.

in both my cars, its been tapped into the factory intercoolers near the TB outlet you can just see the brass thing left of the TB (drivers side) One was done by dtech, other was previous owner

It is a forum and opinions are welcomed. but I think some people take there opinions to far & there is a lot of mis-information spouted on here, but if someone like you or others in the know share advice its generally taken above the rest of it (again from those who know whose who etc)

Marky - I reckon try it. small fan covering half the IC, then half still good for flow at higher speeds. Report back with results

+1 Trust us, you will regret buying & modding the wrx when wanting a sti

Double roll pin, punch out the smaller one then the big one. Easiest way to get back in (I've found) is punching them back in together

you can just grind off the shaft thing and replace with a bolt. (as well as replacing the bushes) See the shaft/pin thing you need to grind off to get those bushes out How soon are you doing it? if your not using the car, pull out the shift linkage & have a look to see which bushes are stuffed, chances are its just one set of bushes. Other thing is I've got a left over set of brand new bushes from mine which mite suit yours (wrong size for me (be5)). If I can find them, Ill see if I know anyone heading to tga or ill post them to you next week? ,freebie as i've got no clue what model they fit haha)

ask PBMS... your paying for a service which includes there advice imo. Tell them your mods, goals and ask what petrol do they recommend to get to those goals. interesting 95 vs 98 dyno plots -> http://www.jzx100.com/forum/topic/10762-95-vs-98-octane-dyno-results/ I always go with 98 you don't spend $$$$ on mods to get more power then save $6 a tank & get less power

just swap the whole gearbox imo (yourself)