ReubenH

Mine was 14/16 back in the day. No mods. (BG5C GTB) I much prefer the 18psi flat I have now, though...

Just some quick snaps.

I love snow tyres... "Snow, what snow?" "Snow, what snow!?" "You call this snow?" "Ah, shit, THAT snow..." Still, popped a spacey on, and it still had enough grip to get me home without one bit of fuss.

Yeah, I've been properly stunned by how good snow tyres are, the levels of grip are phenominal, not once did it slide out without my asking it too. Well, roundabouts are entertaining, but other than that, she just walks up hills where others fail. I also love LSD's <3 Just look at the depth of the snow in those pics, it was wondering through that shit without hesitation.

And a dirty chin beard

I can contribute to this thread

This thread makes me

Dear oh me, that truly is a shame to see a subaru in a state like that. Why would you want to do that sorta thing to a car that's suposed to be all about handling...

Get some 17's

*adds to 50,000K service shopping list* Cheers gents.

Ghithe, have you actually jacked the car up and had a look yourself? Or is it all a bit beyond your skill?

Yah mad, MAD I say. Though much less mad than trying to put a TT in an N/A. At least doing it this way you get all the GT luxuries, handling, interior etc. But still... Pulling a perfectly good engine... If i were you i'd f***ing enjoy the turbo gear until it blows up. You will very likely be surprised when it never does (provided you're not a minga and know how to look after one). The engines themselves are not unreliable, it's the owners that are unreliable (missing oil changes, raping from cold etc). The engines are simply unforgiving when you slip up...

For real? First I've heard of o2 sensors only lasting 80K. Interesting indeeeeeed. Might be another explanation to my marginally less than utterly perfect performance these days (though i will wait till i've done my spark plugs and checked the leads before going further)(i wish i knew the answer to mechanical immortality) Is there any way of testing if an o2 sensor is up to scratch?

If you REALLY are daft enough to pull a perfectly good TT engine out and drop in an N/A (you'll have no trouble finding a buyer!), I say just drop the N/A in and start her up. Drive her. If you get CEL's popping up, go from there. You'll likely have to find an N/A ECU for it, it's just a matter of finding one that plugs in. Start by researching if 98-00 N/A's have the 4/3-Plug setup (Phase 2's have a 4 socket ECU, but only 3 loom plugs are used). If they do, you're in luck, and chances are wiring will be essentially the same. At least, this is the case for the 96-98 era. Engine wise, you're better off keeping the TT engine loom and swaping it onto the N/A. I think doing this should avoid future wiring f***ups. At the ECU end, you may have to change it to wasted spark though, as most subaru N/A's from the era are indeed wasted spark, and so their ECU's will only have 2 ignition outputs. Don't worry, Coil-on-plug can be run as wasted spark (though they will simply age twice as quick) As for the ECU, any N/A ECU can dive any N/A of the same era. SOHC, DOHC, doesn't matter, YEAR is what matters (timing marks, sensors etc). We have run SOHC's on DOHC ecu's before. Only thing to watch out for is the injectors, 2.2's should be run on red tops. DOHC's have red tops, so are a good start. 2L SOHCs run whites, which flow less, so you might have lean issues at the redline in that case. (Again, a disclaimer here, this is talking from my 96-98 era knowledge, things may have changed dramatically for post 98, and my only post 98 knowledge is of turbo shit) Also to note, 98 is when subaru introduced AVCS, which adds a whole clusterf*** of f***ery, SO AVOID THESE ENGINES AND ECU's, They will just unleash a world of pain and misery upon you. Where to start for you? Start with the BH TX's. IIRC, they will have a 2L SOHC, so won't have AVCS. Find out what injectors they run, find out what type of ECU they use. Also try and find out if they made a 2L DOHC without AVCS. If so, you def want and ECU from one of them (will likely drive more appropriate injectors) At the end of the day, I think you're mad for doing this, but if you want to, just PM me, I'm happy to help out fellow subie owners when I can.

This made me lol, i love how you say upgrade to a non turbo (from a twin) (I agree!!! Hate TT) Anyway, your idea that turbos are a bad idea is pretty much false however. Yes they may add unreliability, but if you look after then, they can go forever just like any N/A. And increasing volumetric efficiency is hardly a bad thing! My honest opinion for you is to tidy the car up, and flick it. Then use the cash to buy a 2.2 or something. I do love 2.2's, but that extra 200cc's brings you up to... what... 130hp, from 120? still more than 100hp short of an EJ turbo. If it's really as bad as you say it is, part it out, and use the cash to get an early or mid 90's 2.2

It costs around $1000-1500. But it's strictly DIY. If you can't do it, and you can't find mates on here that can do it for you, just disregard the idea of doing one all together. I recommend you learn how to swing a spanner, it opens up new world (of torment).

Time to buy a socket set and learn the dark art of DIY maintenance if you ask me! Start with the easy things though

Well then, sweet, you should have 9:1 in the 208 as well. I recently got some data saying the BH5A and B EJ208's are 8.5:1, and the rest of the BH engines are all 9:1 (all 206's, and the C and D 208's)

As ichi said, just take it to a dealer, they'll be able to handle it from there. Most errors are intermittent, this is their nature. Just because the error code is no longer displayed, does not mean that it has gone away! Go check it with a suabru dealership when next you have an opportunity.

And that gets you an engine bay that looks like this: You know you want to.

It might not be the rocker covers, unless of course you managed to find a complete imbecile at winger. That's almost certainly the first place they would have looked for an oil leak, as it's by far the most common, I don't think i've ever seen a subie with no rocker cover leaks... So if they didn't see it, well, shit. Other options from that area are: Oil supply pipe (copper washers?), Oil return pipe (old and hard rubber?), Half moon seals (part of the rocker cover seals, can be harder to spot), or rear kidney plate/rear main seal (both in the bell housing with the clutch/torque converter.) But 90% of the time I reckon, it's the rocker covers. And they drip onto the up-pipes, so make smoke.

Sweet, but that's on an early EJ208 right? I.e. an 8.5:1 compression ratio. The EJ206's and late 208's are all 9:1.

Intercooler off will make things much easier, and they aren't THAT hard to put back on. I'd say over all, the job would be made easier by taking the IC off, so long as you know how to persuade them back on I never successfully replace my knock sensor myself, it's just such a bitch of a place for it, so I cheaped out and stuck a second on the bell housing. I can only get away with this because i have a low compression forged engine, i.e. very not stock (the proof is in the pudding, has now done 50,000k's, at 18psi in this config, and still runs like a charm). If your car is stock, this is simply not an option though.

Shiney. That is all. They do look the business though

Regarding the BH compression issues. Did anyone find out if they can run on a WRX or Foz ECU? For the BH5A and B's btw, the EJ206 CR is 9:1, and the EJ208 CR is 8.5:1, or so says the japanese manuals. BH5C EJ208 btw is 9:1 also, I found out they got the Rev-D longblocks. OR rather, the Rev-D has the Rev-C longblock.