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ReubenH

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Everything posted by ReubenH

  1. You know, If i had a BH5D or S401, it'd def stay twin turbo, subaru got it pretty much spot on by then. Even the BE/BH5 a/b/c's are pretty good. It's the BG's that have the BURN IT IN A FIRE twin turbo system. You still can't have as much fun with a BH5A twin turbo as you can with a single turbo though, if you push them, the cracks in the system start to appear. But around town they are perfectly agreeable. It all depends what you want from your car. Do you go out on the weekends and enjoy your favourite twisty road with it, or do you just tootle between the lights in town, you know?
  2. It really is not much harder than pulling and dropping a single turbo. I used to dread doing TT's, but now I know my way around them, it's really no big deal at all. It's just those f***ing primary turbo bolts... They are the real thing to fear with the swap!!
  3. Because they practically allow the air through un-impeded (unfiltered), that's why
  4. Just to expand on that, only MANUAL BG5B's and C's have the easy wiring and yellows etc. I.e. don't even look at auto's when buying. If you get a BD/BG with yellow injectors, you're in for a walk down easy street with the conversion. And someone asked earlier if it'd just be easier to drop an STi engine in, the answer is pretty much yes, that will cut a bit of the BS with dealing with the primary oil stuff, and greatly reduce the shopping list of parts. Plus you'll be getting shim under bucket, which is a mild, if not completely useless bonus But it sorta takes the fun out of the project! And will greatly increase the cost of the conversion, unless you're dealing with a GTB with a blown engine in the first place.
  5. I've literally done/helped with about 4 or 5 single conversions It's damn easy It's worth every cent Only real difference between BD/BG and BE/BH is BG=V3/4, BH=V5/6, and the addition of the fuel pump controller in the BE/BH, you need to run an extra wire from the ECU direct to the fuel pump relay, and you need to bridge the controller, which can be found in the boot. The single conversion thread can be found here: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,74.0.html
  6. If you're at all compitent with a subie engine bay, it's surprisingly easy. I only needed to write down about 3 vac lines i had removed, the rest were self explanatory. Want the number 1 trick, that i've even seen mechanics f*** up? On the BBoD, there's a bracket that goes down the side where all the vac lines go in. If you look closely, you'll see there are actually plugs here, 3 or 4 plugs, each with 3 or 4 vac lines going in. These plugs are labeled 1 through to 4. Just take off the bracket that is holding the plugs in, and pull them out. A lot of people don't know you can pull the whole plug out, and instead pull each and every vac line off the plugs!!! That's when you get f***ed over. If you just take the plug out whole, it's almost impossible to get the vac line plumbing wrong when she all goes back together. AFAIK, the only vac lines you have to pull out, that can't be left on a plug are the differential pressue sensor, and wastegate lines. The rest are easy peasy using the above method. One more pointer: don't even attempt to take the turbo's off, they come out attached to the engine. You can see one of those plugs i talk about in the pic here:
  7. Factory. Only use genuine subaru filters. I used an HKS on my car for a while. It practically didn't filter at all, and ended up sandblasting the leading edges of my compressor blades... The turbo still goes fine, but it looks a state compared to when i put it in. Thanks HKS, thanks for fucking my shit up with your pathetic excuse for a filter.
  8. Never refer to wiki, the info on there is specific to US models, and they didn't even get turbo's till 2004!!! Their model years are different to our as well, the BG years are 93-98 (MY93-MY97, MY=Model Year) Any TT manfiolds should work, AFAIK, the flanges and positions were unchanged through the BH years as well, so essentially, if it's TT, it will be the right one. As for No. 2: Pass, i'm no mechanic.
  9. I've got one for sale in the for sale section. Would take... say... $30 for it. You will need to swap plugs though (but the sensor itself is the same)(It's off a BH5D)
  10. Sounding like a broken reckord that's been pl;aying for 3 or 4 year, but if you want "massive power", the very first stop should be to get rid of the TT system. Probably cheaper than a proper front mount job, and oh so much more rewarding. That said, don't front mount a TT, it will mess up shit, and make vod even more terrible than stock.
  11. I'm pretty sure you'll have the same as me. If it has 3 engine sections, you want the third, "H4DOSTC", as apposed to section one which is for SOHC, and section 2 which is for the H6's. Section 1, for the SOHC engines, lists the CR as 10:1. Oh, and if anyone's interested, the H6's are 10.7:1 according to the MY03 Liberty manual. And anyway, we still don't know if liberty is the same as JDM legacy, we know for certain the JDM's are rated at 206KW on 100octane, but the liberty's at 190, on 98. Is this just ECU related, or is the CR altered too? that's the big question!
  12. Ok, found it in my liberty manual. Now, the Model Year 2003 LIBERTY is listed as 9:1 compression ratio. No difference is mentioned between auto and manual. So there's proof. BUT. That's the liberty, do we know if things are different for the JDM legacy? We know they aren't the same, subaru did mess with them to run on the lower octane petrol in oz, but do we know the speficis? Was that just tune, or was it internal things like CR's?
  13. Hmm, maybe it's the 206's that are 10.5... this might warrant a bit more research! Gravel ben, you got docs showing that the compression ratio's are less than 10.5 in some? I'm going to see if gerald can send me the manuals he found 10.5:1 in to me. This is all highly relevant to me, cause it could mean saving $500 odd...
  14. Damn keen, haven't done anything with CS in over a year :-X
  15. 10.5 according to Gerald, which is higher than the phase 2 BH's, according to Gerald. I don't actually know myself, i haven't bothered looking up the numbers. He sells them for a job, and researches in the manuals to cover his arse basically, so i take his word for it. He said that once he saw the 3's were higher compression, he just stopped selling them to phase 2 owners (for liabilities sake i guess). If he can get a 205 that isn't knocking, i def think i'll go for that. It's cheaper by $200, makes things easier for me (i'd rather solder 8 wires, than install a TT engine) and it could add a bonus to the resale value.
  16. Doing my own thing, ducking low - i'm mostly on DOBC now.
  17. And if BG4 is not a 2L, BG5 is 2L
  18. I found out the other days these f***ers have at least a 10.5:1 compression ratio, and det issues are very much common place. These cars must run on 100 octane, so running them on 95 is just plain stupid. And these cars should be getting WAY more than 10L/100K. My GTB with it's high boost, low compression master 4 with an STi ECU gets 10L/100K. Gen 4's should be getting around 8L/100K i reckon, again, you gotta keep them spick'n'span, and never run anything lower than 98.
  19. Does anyone else see something wrong with this?
  20. You mean you're looking to downgrade to a pod filter...
  21. What, by wasting $1200 on an engine because it died in the first week from chronic det issues? Nien. We have not the cash to just chuck a phase 3 long block in and just hope it doesn't die. I gotta be sure we can make it work before commiting! At this stage the best option still sounds like chucking an EJ205 in, but strong have none at the moment, they are all knocking. These damn phase 2 engines are sounding worse than the old master 4's! Still need to find out for sure if we can make a phase 3 do the trick.
  22. Hey guys. My dads 98 BH has popped it's engine good and proper, and i don't really want to open that can of worms of "what if it's more than just a head gasket" as it wont even start, smells of burnt, and is basically pissing coolant and steam out the exhaust. So, I've been looking at replacement engines, and there's 2 options. Old phase 2 206's and 208's, or phase 3 206's and 208's (with the pinks). The old ones are flying out the door quicker than strong can get them, and as a result there's only one left, which only came in last week, and is expensive. But he has about 8 phase 3's, and they are only 2 3rds the price of the old ones. The only thing is they are much higher compression! So, long block wise, i can easily swap things round in an afternoon, stick the old manifold/injectors/loom on the newer engine... but how do i go about fixing the compression issues? Can i change to the newer ECU? can we fool the old one? what can we do to fix this compression issue? Can i maybe fix'n'flick it with a new engine (cause it's the cheapest option) and hope for the best? The other question. VDC. Who knows anything about it, and if it affects wiring for a single conversion. I.e is the loom different? Cause my next option is to just chuck a 205 in, it's not like don't know how to convert a legacy to single
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