ReubenH

Well. Funny day, i got my very first CEL after the conversion! Nice to know my ECU was not simply incapable of spitting CEL's at me (jokes) When we first got the car on the road, and the new engine run in. It soon became clear i was running wastegate pressure. We didn't know why, but i had bought an electronic boost controller anyway, so we hooked that up, and i've been fine ever since. This afternoon, i had nothing to do, so i thought i should go and removed the boost control solenoid from the front fender that was doing nothing, and sell it to the bloke in the wanted section who's after one. This is the solenoid that did the wastegate on the primary turbo. I took it out, and surprise surprise, i got CEL code 44 "Supercharging oppression output" In other words, the ECU was bitching that it had no boost control. Very odd! I compared the pinouts for the TT and the STi... Pin A3 is the pin that the STi ECU uses for the BCS. Turns out the engine bay/BBoD BCS was actually wired into A19, and the fender/primary BCS was the one wired into A3! So this whole time i've had them mixed up! The solution is to solder A19 into A3, and that will make my engine bay BCS the one the STi ECU uses. I will amend the wiring section of the thread later tonight... I'm amazed i never picked that up! Damn TT's

I would have thought newb an acceptable replacement for the word surely

Yeah nah guys. That line goes off to the boost control solenoid in the passenger wheel arch, for the primary turbo... You're un-plugging one of it's vac lines... which means what? I'm guessing it is allowing the primary to free boost.. which means blown turbo in no time, the primary's are already overworked as is. Maybe in a BH/BE you're safer, cause i've never heard of them having turbo issues. But for the BG/BE's... i do not recommend you do this mod.

EJ20G ECU's are closest for the 4 Plug EJ20H's. But still pretty different. There's always aftermarket ECU's as well, these seem to be the prefered option, and for good reason. What model RS do you have hh?

You can bypass the expense of the harness by buying me or someone nearby who can play with wires a box of beer. Really. I've installed 3 now, and uninstalled my own no worries.

Hardly any complications AT ALL. You just need to keep your yellow injectors, AFM, and get a V3 or 4 STi ECU. Any engine will fit really, but you want one off a V3 or newer STi. If you find a complete engine btw, remember you can sell the GTB heads for a bundle, and the extra set of injectors etc. etc.

I can't believe that. Nearly a full size SUV, and yet it weighs as much as a new STi. Gotta love subaru. (Gotta hate the weight figures for the new STi's)

Well the auto plugs would probably take up empty slots on the ECU right? So as long as you do a manual conversion first, you're sweet right? Or is there more to it than that. It's always worth a shot at least. The GTB's 3 plug was totally compatible, everything related to the TT was on a blank plug on the STi ECU.

It means ALLOT to me, i love my car. I like it so much i'm putting in care of my dad when i mover overseas, not a chance in hell i'm selling it.

That's what i'm running, and it does sound bloody mean. You gotta go to dodgy wof places though, everywhere else plays the "it's louder than factory" (No shit!) card and get you to dB test it : (not a good idea) If you're on the shore, Barry's point auto on barry's point road. Found them cause my mate works down the same drive

Mint, good work! The original scans on their own can be found here: http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/01switch.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/02wiring.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/03plugs1.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/04plugs2.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/05settings.jpg

I don't think water would be a problem like that, it's when you start playing with cold air intakes you gotta worry. (there was a guy on NASIOC last week who hydraulic'd his engine cause he went though the mother of all puddles in the middle of the night with his CAI)

Check engine light? Will tell you if it's the AFM or not. the screw in thing. front and centre on top of the manifold right? That thing i think is simply a filter for a vac line. the vac line will go off to the BBoD, or somewhere and play some obscure yet crucial part for the TT system... Um, to replace it just find any BG/BD GT at a pick-a-part. Or head down to a dealer and ask for a new one.

Mint ;D

yeah but they always have oil around the place. Of course nothing is supposed to leak Anyway ryan, you're always telling me that leaks are a feature, not a problem

Don't forget clubsub members are usually happy to help out.

Gotta remember the STi is so much more than the power figure though

The plastic case is sorta supposed to leak oil. It's called the "kidney plate" and it's a crank case breather.

Would be the standard 206KW right? just a bigger earlier torque curve cause of the 2.5 or something like that. I don't actually know btw, just guessing here

Yeah, i tore up mats carpet to have a look ;D. It's a 5W and it's an orange sticker, if that means anything to anyone.

Yep, i still have my motor. I had to un-plug it cause it was making noises.

Pretty much what's been said already. The big one for the Gen 1's is rust i think.

Oh yeah, the water to air intercoolers do a fine job. No worse than V3/4 intercoolers.

Man you should have heard my big ends go. It was one HELL of a rattle i can tell you that. But yeah, a second opinion should definitely be had. Also that trademe link you just posted Palwow is also for an EJ20H (cause he said it's from a 93-96). Like i said earlier, can and probably will work, but the heads are different to your GTB heads, the won't make as much power. The difference will hardly be noticable though..

Watch out for blown turbo's too, you MUST take the car for a test drive. Unlike the manual GTB's, these cars don't suffer from big end problems, but they do blow the primary turbo's every now and then. Otherwise it's the same-old same-old when buying a subaru, check for any engine knocks etc. The old GT's are generally reliable, if looked after of course. Also ask about the service history, you want to hear that it get's the oil changed at least every 10,000k's and cambelt + water pump + tensioners at 100,000k's and stuff like that.