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Subru

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Posts posted by Subru

  1. I have the Exedy HD Clutch coming (no flywheel as extra 500 which is not worth it for me) as well as rocker cover gaskets, rear main seal and kidney plate.

     

    If anyone in wellington knows someone who will lend me their engine hoist for a few days for a pack of beers, lmk.

  2. 13 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:

    Check that it is in fact wired the right way round. I did the same with my first one so it ran backwards, sounded fine but never actually builds line pressure enough to start. I almost felt like the pump was internally wired backwards compared to the factory one as I had double checked all my wiring before starting it.

    The DW200 appears to have exact the same wiring as the AEM. I can see + and - on the bottom of the DW200 and its the same orientation shown in the instructions for the AEM so Im sure the wiring is correct. Ill have a physical look tomorrow tho.

  3. So I have just installed an AEM 340lph fuel pump on my V7 Sti (for future power mods and also same pump as I used on my last V7). I loosely fitted it back and tested it but now the car cranks but doesnt start. I tried priming it 3 or 4 times before cranking but no luck. I took it out and inspected after I first attempted to start the car and noticed that no fuel (or hardly any) leaked out the lines (so it didnt pump any I assume)

    The fuel pump primes but the pump noise doesn't change pitch which tells me its not filling up the lines.

    The lines dont seem to be pinched, used original fuel sock (which looks pretty black but has worked fine previously), has 1/4 a tank of fuel.

    Im confused as to what it could be, any help would be great.

    The only thing I can think of is that somehow its struggling to pump the fuel up the lines for the first time.

     

    I noticed it came with a DW200 already.

     

  4. This is my old car actually.

    There is a weird clicking noise, the CVs have been looked at by mechanic and has said they are good.

    The noise only happens when warmed up for 10 mins or so.

    The noise happens worse at while cornering hard under deceleration.

    Sounds like its coming from gearbox. If I go on each side of the car it sounds the same (not like if one CV is clicking you know what side its on)

     

    Any Ideas?

     

    Google photos Video Link:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ko55MSsH8jiZhLET9

     

  5. So it turns out I need a clutch. Ill likley be going more power in future so Im after something that could hold about 250kw easily (ill never launch or track it) and its a daily so what are some good options?

     

    Also if i was to do myself I would have to do engine out so what else should I do while the engine is out such as turbo gaskets, rocker cover gaskets etc?

    The engine is healthy and makes solid 190kw untuned which Chris (prestige tuning) said was good for stock v7 sti so dont say rebuild haha.

     

    Ill post dyno stuff on garage thread when I make one.

  6. 11 minutes ago, Loren said:

     

    When does it do that exactly? If only when powering out of or through a corner, it could be the inside rear wheel slipping because your rear diff is not very good... i.e. a viscous diff or a plated diff that needs servicing.

     

     

    The "clutch is poked because it engages right at the top" is an old school cable clutch thing I think... you have a hydraulic clutch.

     

    The Sti does have an intake temp sensor and so will feel down on power when heat soaked... the WRX does not have one... true for v5/v6 in any case, but I  imagine a v7 sti will have one.

    Okay makes sense. Im hoping the clutch is fully engaged when the pedal is released as its quite high. If there is some adjustment ill do that to make it feel more normal.

     

    Im gonna talk to chris from prestige tuning when I take it for dyno run and see what he thinks.

    3 minutes ago, TNHSTI said:

    Does it surge or stutter when powering out or through a corner?

     

    Nah goes fine out of corners.

  7. 17 minutes ago, boon said:

    Use the water spray, and don't cane it when you've been sitting at the lights.

     

    I was Captain TMIC for the longest time and I was never like "woah this car is down on power".... I mean, the stock setup doesn't even care about IAT IIRC, it measures the temperature at the AFM.

    It kinda feels like the clutch is slipping but without the revs spiking.

    That reminds me, the clutch pedal engages right near the top of the pedal travel which holefully means a peadal adjustment is needed and Hopefully the clutch isnt poked. Clutch feels fine and holds the power.

  8. 14 minutes ago, boon said:

    Most of the kits suck and involve completely hacking up or entirely removing the front bar.

     

    Seriously, you probably don't need it. Lot of faff for something that actually has limited useful benefit to the vehicle. Just turn the water spray on and keep it topped up.

     

    EDIT: Side note, 1.5 bar is about what these cars hit stock...

    Sometimes boost actually hits about 1.6 and maybe 1.7 even for an instant then goes down to 1.4 bar. Feels quicker than my old v7 did anyway.

    I did fmic in my old v7 and loved how consistent thw power was. This one is annoying as the heat soak does effect it quite a lot. I might take it off and give itna good clean anyway to remove any crap inside.

     

    Are there any ways to help the tmic heat soak less?

  9. So my new v7 sti is mostly stock except a TB exhaust k&n panel filter and Im sure it has a tune as its quick af (turbo hits 1.5 bar but steady at 1.4 bar. Will get a retune/dyno soon to make sure) but it heat soaks pretty bad as they do. Very noticeable decreased power after sitting at traffic lights or slow traffic when everything has heated up which is not ideal in a street car.

    So is there a go-to fmic kit for these? I dont wanna cut anything that needs a cert.

    • Like 1
  10. Im on my second bugeye.

    The noise is better and the single scroll turbo gives a nice kick when you enter the power band, feels a lot more raw. Personally I think they look better too.

    I just got a low kms v7 sti sedan un thrashed (from what I can tell) and in good condition for 17k which is cheap compared to others. They are going up in value too.

  11. My BH5 legacy had what the old owner said was compressed springs (photos below, lmk what you think. Are they legit lowering springs or some ghetto modification?) and looks like it has done some damage to the front left tophat which I didn't notice on inspection. Ill be getting a new pair of tophats and lowering springs (if current springs have been modified) but need help on what springs are decent and will lower it a good amount. They are Bilsteins.

     

    Tophats (one good one bad):

    20200908-184308.jpg
    20200908-184313.jpg

    Springs sitting on wheels and one with wheels in air:

    20200908-173554.jpg
    20200908-173621.jpg
     

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