That Guy

Oh Hey Bro! I really do doubt it's the pump unit itself like you say, it was brand new and a genuine unit so I'd be pretty surprised if it was playing up. Turns out I biffed the old pump so no chance of giving that a go lol lol! I haven't done a single thing in the way of troubleshooting yet, was running semi-late for work so just threw it back in the garage for the time being. Like I posted above, I've got a crazy feeling that the pick up is somehow floating above fuel level due to this random knocking/banging that's going on. Took tools out of the boot today and the same thing happened once or twice so it got me thinking. Pretty rando if it is the case, though, not really sure how it could happen tbh but time will tell once I pop it out. I replace the F.P.R vacuum lines last time I had a fueling issue so that should all be sweet. I guess I'm thinking of this floating pick up thing in the sense that it is almost too predictable. Drive for 20 (ish) minutes, the problem occurs, park up for 10 and your good to go, its almost like the pick up needs a little time for resubmerge itself. This seems to be happening like clockwork, much like taking a morning dump. You would expect with an electrical fault that it would be either constant or totally random, but this is almost failing to a schedule. Smoke and mirrors man, smoke and mirrors. In other great news though, I got a new set of Neuton nt5000's (215/45/17's), put a degree of negative camber up front and 1mm of toe out in the bum and its f'n rad. After driving the diesel lux for the last year (even though its on big sticky tires) I was simply blown away. Still no legal stickers so didn't go too far, but tight twists where you can't get out of second where absolutely awesome, totally reminded me why I bought it and made the work pay off, even if it was super short-lived! Just got to get this wof thingy sorted so I clock up some miles. Excite!

Fuel filter should be sweet as that has done less than 200km. I don't really have a reliable way of checking fuel pressure on hand, however, I am fairly resourceful so I could most likely hori something up with duct tape and an old oil pressure gauge I've got floating about. I don't think I would say that the pump is dying as such, but its the fact that it goes from being bearly noticeable (audibly) when car is running tight, to hella loud and borderline screeching when running rough. I did have one theory about it today which I think may be spot on Bevan. So the same thing happened last week when I was pretty low on fuel and I could hear that something was banging around in the rear, didn't think much of the noise as I had tools and S*** in the carpetless boot that I figured were rolling about. Anyhow, the car basically stopped so I walked to the nearest gasser and picked up a jerry can, despite having a 1/4 tank left as the fuel pump sounded the same as it is now. More fuel = no worries. That was last week, haven't used it since until toady. Went and put 30 liters in it before a boost over blue mountains (sweet Hutt valley road) and within 20 minutes I had the same old thing. I figure something weird is going on and the pick up must somehow no longer by fully submerged, hence the screaming of sucking air. That's my theory anyway. Please feel free to cut my down on this!

Has anybody had any experience with Walbro's not doing what they should? I installed a second hand (unused) Walbro in the gc8 that seems to be doing some odd S***. Pump seems fine for about 15-20 minutes of driving and then it will start to struggle. First, it is noticeable with sight fuel cutting under boost, then after another 5-10 minutes the pump becomes overly loud and sounds to be struggling. This will then result in more fuel cuts to a point where a limping home above 40kmph is quite the struggle. Any ideas around this? I have yet to pop it out and investigate further. I hear of people doing some form of wiring mod, not that I know the ins and outs of this as of yet. I would assume that if it was a voltage issue it would be constant and would not kick in after 20 minutes of driving. Also thought along the same lines with a clogged sock, you would also think that this would be constant. I did recycle the original sock as I was under the impression that the Walbro ones are no good in these tanks. I'm open to suggestions.

Perhaps moving to Wellington might be the solution to your problems. No need for open windows if it's raining, cos its cold. If it's not raining, its cold. If it's cold, you better believe its damn cold. If it's sunny, yup, you guessed it, it's still f'n cold. No need for anything other the heater set on feet all year round.

1972 Datsun B110 (Datsun 1200) four door sedan. Paid a whopping $500 for it when I was 14. Was the beginning of a 20 year love affair with the brand that I've only recently managed to shake. Pretty much have always had a Datsun of some degree since then until a few years ago (although 90% of the time they were off the road) and would jump straight back into one if the prices weren't getting so silly.. My old 1200 2 door wagon

Do you know if you have a restrictor pill installed? As for the popping I'd look towards your ignition system, star with plugs and go from there

I wish my gear box had that little rust...

Yeah that looks a no name generic Chinatown knock off. From what I've read ive heard the kinugawa items are fairly decent units. To be honest though I don't really know a great deal about turbos so I can't really offer any valuable advice other than don't buy a cheap Chinese item, they tend to go bang. Pricing on them is pretty damn attractive, much like a lady boy in downtown Bangkok. But we all know that once you've got that back to your hotel your in instant regret mode, wishing you spent that bit extra for the real deal

Ham and cheeeeeeese! Is there any other option?

Finished rebuilding the front C.V's, reinstalled both front half shafts, refitted radiator and bled the cooling system, drained rear diff, removed rear half shafts to rebuild the rear C.V's, went to pick a part and found a clutch return spring that I was missing, along with a one way vacuum valve thing for @THUNDA. Removed, checked, measured and reinstalled a noisy alternator idler pulley on my Hilux, told repco to go suck a lemon when they tried to charge me $160 for a new pulley, so ordered one ex Austraila for $40 including freight. Oh, and ate a toasted sandwich (high-light of the day).

I believe so. I'm pretty sure that this has been an on going leak that I over looked while it was apart. It is now way worse though, so I may not have seated it correctly. either way I need to replace it for peice of mind at least

Anybody know any good tricks to replace the turbo oil return line with the turbo in place? Totally didn't even consider replacement while turbo was off and now its leaking like crazy. Pretty keen to remove the minimal amount of parts as possible to achieve this.

Whooooo this heated up pretty quick (excuse the pun). I had a little on line search last night and found a few options for replacement up pipes. At this stage I'll just leave it as is and concentrate on wof requirements I think. Thanks for the advice tho guys, it's bloody good being able to find usefull and relevant information while also showing of your progress. Good fourm!

Ahhhhhhh I just don't know what to doooooooo? But really, F*** it. I'll just leave it alone for the time being. Headers will be sought when an appropriate set pop up at an affordable price. For the mean time I'll just clean up the stock market and throw some gaskets at it, being as that was the only reason I removed it in the first place.

Thank you sir

Being that I'm not expert on thermal efficiency I figured some of you guys may have some ideas. Would I be better off leaving the stock heat shields in place or wrap the F***ed with heat wrap? I kinda want to remove the heat sheildsto inspect for leaks, however, it does appear that they are not a simple bolt on, bolt off item. Im not one to be worried about being a butcher to remove things so that's not an issue, just wondering if it's worthwhile.

I ended up getting ultra barbaric on that nut which has lead to success! Only took about 4 hours in the end..

Irwins pretty good, so have a fair bit of irwin gear from when I was on the tools, Mainly cramps, spade bits, impact driver kits.. Might even still have an Irwin pinny floating around somewhere still?

You could be onto something there, I didn't think of inviting old mate imperial to the party. The main issue with a spanner is leverage, or the lack of space to achieve any. I was using a 600mm braker bar with a 400mm pipe on the end for addition leverage and it still wouldn't crack it, had it turned up to 11 and you could see a fairly reasonable amount of flex in the braker bar. I am keen to spend zero dollars on additional tooling unless it comessage to the complete crunch/bitter end. This is also a pretty sweet idea. I am doubting that I will be able to squeeze a drill in tho. Hopefully I can find some spare time tomorrow to have a hack

In the process of removing the turbo so that I can throw some new exhaust gaskets in place. Long story short is I have come across a rounded nut, which I have then gone and rounded a little more. So I have managed to remove all the remaining nuts with a little bit of a struggle, however, the pictured item is being somewhat of a c*nt. Due to its location, I am I have been unable to get a half inch driver on there. I have managed to bash on a 13mm 3/8 drive, but when applying load I snapped the extension where it connects to the socket. I have coated the hell out of it with CRC, but now, even with a 13mm bashed on it goes straight into slip mode. There is no room for an angle grinder of hack saw to cut the nut off and I am way too paranoid to get a gas torch in there to apply heat, due to all old oil and whatnot living around this area. To the best of my knowledge, it seems impossible to remove the turbo and up pipe in one piece, due to the bracket on the rear of the turbo. Any ideas would on how to sort this (without a welder) would be radical!

Good thinking! I just ordered a exhaust gasket kit from him yesterday and he was awesome to deal with. Have just sent home an email so I will see how that pans out. Cheers bud, will have a look into this as well!

Probably not the right place to post this so mods, feel free to shift this. Does anybody know if we have any club hook ups for maintenance related parts? I'm after a cambelt kit including water pump, front crank seal etc for a ej20g. I am yet to hit up the local subaru dealership, buthe I did have a quick look on trademe. $550 was the price I found which seems fairly expensive? Let me know if anybody has access to a happy deal.

Sweet, will look into other options or stick with stock. Cheers bro.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/1223599333 What's people's thoughts on these? Since I have the exhaust manifold off I figure replacement isn't a bad idea. I'm assuming that these would be rather cheap thin walled steal and would have a tendency to crack? I don't really want to break the bank with an expensive set so it's either these or retain the stock manifold. Cheers lads

It appears to be. Hooked up a bike pump to it and tested it a few times, seams to be all good