Batbaruman

cheers, shopping around for deals and will happily settle for the others you've mentioned at the right price. you don't rate rotating? didn't have my subi long enough (nor drive it far enough) for that but on old toyota cars i saw significant difference, as one particular car i had for 5 years and didn't rotate tyres at all, they looked brand new on outer edge and inner /center was completely bald so super dangerous (negligence on my part lol). ya 245 40 19 is the stock rear tyre size. also the strange thing was that stock staggered setup has 224/45 on the fronts and all places that quoted me so far have the 225/45 front more expensive than 245/40 rears, so it gave me more incentive to consider the square setup rather than staggered.

broooooooooooooooooo i gave up the race car life, i didn't chop my balls off !

Sorry for crashing this topic but seems like your matter was resolved, thought I'll grab a few opinions on mine! shopping around for set of 245 40 19 for RWD Vehicle (infiniti g37s). extremely unlikely to see track use, might see the odd spirited driving in summer but nothing significant in winter other than commutes etc. less so now with rising fuel prices might just stay at home and uber eats all day every day. factory setup is 225 45 19 front, 245 40 19 rears but other popular setups i read are 245 40 19 all around (ability to rotate for tyres to last longer with no significant handling impacts, 0.95% speedo diff) or alternatively the "+0" sizing 245 40 19 fronts with 275 35 19 rears. initially wanted to go latter route but found how expensive 275s are and given that won't be able to rotate the tyres, i won't get as much life out of them either. then again my rear wheels are 9", fronts 8.5" so i have some concerns about if rotating is actually viable or not lol. Received a few quotes so just tallying up some of the ones i seen. 245 40 19 4 x Toyo Proxes T1R $1315 fit/balance+alignment. (hyper) 4 x Bridgestone Potenza RE003 $1450 fit/balance+alignment. (tonys) 4 x Michellin Pilot Sport 4 $1700 fit/balance, $100 extra for alignment. (beaurepaires) Tonys offer tyre insurance for about $14 per tyre and beaurepaires have something similar, i'm guessing that is highly worth while? It's one of those journeys that leads me down the whole 'spend a little more now and get something significantly better' rabbit hole and not entirely sure exactly where to stop lol. if money was not as tight it would be a real easy choice to go for the MPS4 or even the 4S. anyone out there can do club deals or anything hit me up

i switched to mobil 98, as their min RON value is also 98 which is really all i care about. they also seem to advertise same kind of benefits from the additives that BP markets. i guess if you wanted to be really objective about this then would ideally have knock counter on a car testing between the different fuels but i wouldn't expect any worthy differences between those two.. might just be confirmation bias though. as others have said, mobil 98 is cheaper at shelf price before even applying their smiles discounts than BP price including the smartfuel discounts. i also wait for the 10c off per litres wednesdays if i can, for that extra bit of savings. just as an FYI in case anyone hasn't heard of it, check this app out - https://gaspy.nz/ i check Gaspy in diffrent regions out of curiosity and though i don't beleive in driving far out of my way just to get a fuel discount, i know for example that when i go visit my cousin out in bayview every couple weeks i can stop in at the mobil in that area to feed my car 98 at about 10c/litre cheaper than it is near my house. i imagine i'll also be using this for a bit of forward planning on future road trips also. used to really not care about saving a few cents here and there but since i started doing the math on it, my expenditure on the premium juices became quite shocking after i moved on from my 1.8L corolla..

what kind of business are you in / what type of clients? this could be big influence on what you could decide to get also IMO. the newer accords with variable cylinder management could be pretty good choice if economy is a must, though all of the ones listed should be able to hit 10km/litre driven sensibility and also capable of getting much worse when not driven sensibly the comments made about DSG on GTI i would class as outlier and not the norm, if you don't mind hatches (used to love them but fell out of love lately after having sedan for some time) then you pretty much can't go past a GTI for performance per dollar when it comes to fuel economy.

someone post pic of @Dairusire best tool among us

theres somethin about those pics man i cant get over how cool they are haha. like normally youd want perfectly show room clean but in this case the fat muddy tyres give it an extra special appeal on that terrain and suits the style fully. im a big bugeye fan but the sillhouette of your car is like perfectly timeless / classic. should chuck them up on impreza thread also to keep that going.

top one is amazing. bottom one is cool too , kinda reminds me of all my litle toys i had when was a kid which is appropriate as that car is now a grown mans toy

so shiny. didnt turn right there did ya?

whjat the heck, both your race car and your runabout nugget are not running? you my friend need to visit a witch doctor

yeah dude find out a little more if you can, if you are flooring the pedal and don't feel it specifically punchier than caldina then something wrong with it. could be as minor as boost leaks, slightly less minor but something to cost in like not remapped if turbo is not stock, or could be much worse things.

gearing on wrx is not ideal, the sti is really where its at if you want significant upgrade in straight line vs the caldina, needless to say in corners the wrx will show its strengths sooner. since you mentioned engine was changed i wonder if it has had other changes such as turbo , and perhaps without a retune. one of trademarks of these cars in stock setup is that sudden 'back in your seat' torque hit in old school turbo lag fashion which doesn't take too long given it's a nice little snail. definately test drive others, especially sti version if you can.

dude imagine you did all that work on your car and your mrs beats you in a race to the grocery shop in that thing lol

yeh on the note of tuning, most tuners would prefer you bring in with cheaper plugs because its entrely possible during tuning process to get fouled plugs, it's an item you should budget to change during that process so defs copper unless got money to waste

best to confirm with your tuner but mine recommended heat range 7 BCPR7ES which come gapped at 0.8mm which was the desired gap. only $7 each , not as easy to change as in other cars hence why some may prefer the more expensive iridium ones etc. but didnt find any legit reason to have to pay so much more for something you could potentially be more likely to change on a modified vehicle.

savage lol

anyway thanks for mentioning the 1 series because now quite intrigued by the 123d lol, it's no beast by any means but seems ok for an average car and more importantly seems like something nimble i could potentially still throw around corners while saving even more on petrol than a 335d. i do have some freakishly tall people in the family (i'm only 5'5 but average height of cousins/nephews who often go out together is 6'2+) , those tall people will just have to suffer for winning the genetic lottery over me

still have a lot of research to do to be honest, i feel super keen on the 335d as it's based on a pretty awesome chassis and power curves do look alright, i figure long term id just wanna sort with adjustable suspension / lsd and it should be sweet? bit expensive though, will keep doing lot of research including checking out the 120d you mentioned.

might join euro thread by end of year (but in a more boring, eco diesel form lol)

good on ya for sorting it but im sure u can trust the boost control to your tuner , unless cars really unhealthy theres no reason for you to limit it that low.

since i got rekd in the great scientific debate of cow poops, i shall leave this here. feat my bus driver aka superman

we have shitloads of cows and sheep in nz, cant we just extract ethanol from all their poop?

that's disgusting bro just ride your motorbikes everywhere lol. does the fuel prices have anything to do with emissions targets and all that? zero emissiosn by 2050? http://www.climatechangenews.com/2017/10/20/jacinda-ardern-commits-new-zealand-zero-carbon-2050/ ie. we have about 32 years left to YOLO the crap out of our car enthusiast lifestyles before we settle down in to electric wheel chairs?

@sobanoodle guts bro how about you and your passengars (if any)?

yep most likely, however we don't have all the facts in front of us so there is another possibility. the alternative answer would be that the previous intercooler was so inefficient that the tune it self was compromised and now that the temps are in the range of 20-30c they're able to add in more timing / fuel as there is now more denser air (more oxygen in the cooler air helps a bit with this too) = better combusion = cooler engine = safer engine = more power with same boost level. in my own example that i provided from my car, when switching from top mount to front mount i didnt make extra more power just from this as tune was already at limits and the power runs/tune was done at PBMS where they have proper top mount cooling setup, however my tune was setup to compensate for IAT so as i drove it hard during the hotter months, the ECU was pulling timing while driving to keep engine temps down hence i'd be driving around with fair bit less power on road than what i had on dyno which would have made that setup a bad choice for track use. not only is my IAT cooler but my coolant and oil temps have also been cooler since switching over which was weird because in theory this big object in front of radiator i would have thought would make it less efficient in that respect. goes without saying though that a good quality intercooler core definitely plays a big role in all this.