Gripless

May have just enough space for turbo cover. Moving bracket holding up pipe 1-2mm outwards which should gain 2-3mm at top. Cutting off closest mount that is unused. Cutting height down on the bolt mount surface on TVG saves 3-4mm Using screw head not bolt head on same mount saves 3-4mm Thermal spacers are 8mm so can drop to 3mm ones, or even factory gaskets. Another 5-8mm All of which hopefully make up the 12.5mm radius increase. can also deform the silicone joiner a bit as turbo and manifold are bolted to block and won’t rub. Even if crushed in the anti surge airways are below the top point on turbo inlet. So much effort for tiny gain. Well maybe 30-40hp from cover swap.

Plan to paint top of rad now. have to pull it away from car to add foam sealing tape around it anyway.

All aftermarket manifolds are out… realised the top mount brackets all bolt up to manifold and nothing but stock will have them. Bolt that is in the way is only a TVG to upper manifold, not the main 4 that go onto the block. New cover also sits closer to compressor wheel as there is not vent to recirculate air so that helps.

Thanks. 3D printing I like that idea, they have that carbon fibre fibres stuff like my HANS device is made out of now too. Yeah red Sti joiner to intercooler was on the list but can the stock one hold 32psi. I tried to find the pink one last time and they had bright red only. Didnt think about painting rad top, thought had thought of air diverted plates.

One pump while makes ok pressure the pulsing can cause cavitation and if air builds up on spray side of pump it won’t pull in more from tank side. So that one is useless if the line if fatter than 2mm ID as then bubbles can collect at bends unless pump is lowest point.

Boost solenoid back on manifold wiring. Should go under stock mounting plate now. Stock airbox can go back in. Has resonator removed and cold air duct from spot light. Stock air feed from front also feeds cold air. Figured will cut a hole in it a cover with rubber flap. That way when cruising at speed and intakes are enough flap will stay closed and it’ll be pressurised a little. Though at low speed when launching the flap can open up to allow more airflow. Since it’s rubber no electronics needed the air pressure will open and close it as needed. Crinkle alloy with ceramic mat between OEM exhaust shield material will go on. Better than turbo beanie as can’t soak up oil or fluids. Have worked out heat panel for brake master and clutch master but turns out there are many designs of these even with same generations of Sti so can’t just make a heap of them. Other stupid ideas for more stock engine bay that may happen: Take top plate off or cut up OEM rad header tank and put it over the aftermarket one. Remove the yellow warning sticker from stock cap and stick over new cap. Cover turbo to airbox alloy pipe with heat wrap and then black plastic pipe. Rotate the intercooler to throttle silicone joiner around so writing doesn’t show. But really it ok as can’t hide the PW top mount, maybe remove huge PW wording from it would help. Could refit OEM turbo heat shield over compressor cover. Wanting a “If you know, you know” engine bay look. None of this hides the radium collection on the passengers side but there are loads of hoses and the battery cables over that side so it doesn’t stand out as much.Also massive shiny radiator sticks out a little. Had the wild idea of getting the stock intercooler and taking end tank off to fit a water to air core between them. Water hoses in/out on the passengers side That would then bolt up to the stock mounts and everything else like BOV etc. Then remembered I only have seam welded stock intercoolers as blew the tabs open on the original one and a brand new one. They don’t like 24psi too much.

The 2.5” original The 3.5” SXE inner is same 2.5” with the 0.5” surge all around it.

looking for in depth Subaru knowledge here… So I rushed and ordered a SXE compressor cover for the EFR before cert photos, and didn’t account for the 1” bigger inlet. Thought it was only 1/2” bigger. The turbo with stock efr cover is tucked up close to the manifold and TVG so the silicone pipe was 5mm from the random mounting standoff sticking out of stock manifold. a) The current manifold is stock Sti and TVG but all the insides have been ground smooth already. Also has 5mm thermal gaskets which could be removed. raduim split rail kit b) it’s the right lower in the photo. Big standoff and the TVG bolt. https://imgur.com/ukuy4aO c) needs to hold together at 32psi d) didnt want fancy intake etc and so avoiding that would be nice. Options I randomly thought up so far.. 1) PW 67mm TVG which lower the manifold 12mm from stock. Plus another 5mm of the thermal gasket is removed. https://processwest.com.au/product/133/PWTD04-Billet-TGV-Delete-Kit-suit-Subaru-01-07-WRX-STI-&-08-17-STI-Raw Looks like this isn’t enough 2) Anyone know of the older + spec one fits or flows well? https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2722224 I remember something about GRB 2008+ manifolds having bigger internal runners. @Andy_Mac mentioned ethrottle mod needed as well. I have a old 2.5L NA 70mm ethrottle body that should match up. 3) cut the bolt and mount off and leave 5mm to and wire tie that edge. Hope and pray! 4) live with surge in midrange and resell compressor cover. Easy and cheap option rather than waste more money. 5) most aftermarket ones are out as they use the TVG still eg no cosworth, PW or most Chinese knockoffs. AMS may work but that near $2k just to get me and if not it then resell it. It may also be fatter that stock so potentially worse.

Measured boot and there is F all space in there. The spare tire limits middle to almost nothing. Chassis rails limit height to 60mm Biggest areas 60x150x330mm on each side. behind bumper is around 150x100x900mm 100mm is due to some bolts and the body seams higher up. so rear bumper tank could be workable.

Evos all had OEM sprayers so I never had my own, but rigged up plenty of washer pumps to garden 4mm plastic irrigation misters on gtir, vr4 and random Nissans. Evo is same as Sti near handbrake so you tap the button before downshift and passing. Don’t have a full list yet, but it’s just simple parts.. pumps anything high pressure 70-140psi are common and around $30 AEM water Meth just uses a diaphragm irrigation pump and similar nozzles as below. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/pumps-tanks/listing/4233911838 For stand-alone just need something like the OEM one https://www.hella.co.nz/en/products/relays-flashers/time-control-relays/ there are adjustable versions from 0.2s upwards and you can put them in series to make patterns. Nozzles are just 6mm mist in a few sizes like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004136903055.html can mount them in 6mm hole in the factory plastic under bonnet to intercooler duct. plus they claim the line as designed for high pressure. Likely run the hard black irrigation 6mm line for everything except the short bit between body and hood where more flexible clear line would be better. 3 port for nozzle select or turn to tank on normal full time pump https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005197895762.html Tanks turned out to be the expensive part. Have to pull boot apart and measure up size in there. Luckily my bumper is all chopped up so can just see the mounts so can measure all that tomorrow.

Hydroponics pipe look good. Thick walls and rated to hold water weight when horizontal. Flat surfaces so can drill and mount filler anywhere if you don’t get 20mm outlet end cap. Per meter 5L or 10L which should fit behind bumper. pipes 100x50mm or 100x100mm end caps blank or 20mm buy caps from China and pipe locally due to shipping.

Well that won’t work until get car back to PBMS. 4 port wired to MAF loom so stuck out that side of engine bay for now. MAF wire can be reused for water spray pattern solenoid. Have 2 TVG spare outputs, also maybe the front lower o2 sensor wires. Depending on what IO they are on ecu can run EGT to heads and another sensor as well. Engine pulls -0.85 bar vacuum on lift off, compared to -0.8 old motor with 30,000km. Same gauge, pipes and stock manifold. When done the engine bay other than radium and turbo will look pretty stock. Airbox and boost solenoid cover going back in. Need to find or reuse sticker from rad overflow top tank.

Yet more If needs to run on regular full time pump can use a 3 port valve to have default to return water to tank. This would make sure not dead headed and reduce stress on pump. Then interval timer to switch on. Can be as simple as a timer relay 2s-2min adjustable running 3 port. For easy adjustable standalone option, unsolder the trim pot resistor in relay and attach larger trim pot and knob near centre console. Could use dial like headlight dimmer and clip into dash etc.

More findings 100mm pipe has best range of reducers for filler end eg 100-40mm which can then have flexible hose and cap fitted. Both 80mm and 100mm come in black for downpipes from gutters so easy to get. Sedans could have this mounted under parcel tray so very hidden and also unlikely to get hit from loose objects sliding around. Also make filler neck easy to pull out to side of car for filling. @Niran Could T or + multiple sections of pipe in middle or ends to have stacked tanks of different sizes and make up 30L. More for multi-use street track cars. Could run dozens of laps with spray constantly on in cyclic pattern so always super cold intake. Fill level Section between stack can be clear so can see fill level and run 5L for road use. Internal sight gauge. Have second thin clear pipe through all T and + joins top to bottom with little ball so can spot easy. Pipe keeps ball from floating into tank or out filler. external sight gauge. Small external clear hose between two L fitttings with ball inside. Prices NZ prices are high, parts here $15-35 or $3-10 in AU both inc GST. So need to find so cheaper places or scrap pipe jointers etc.

length diameter volume (equals weight in kg when full) 1.0m 100mm 8L 1.2m 100mm 9.4L 1.0m 80mm 5L 1.2m 80mm 6L 1.0m 65mm 3.3L 1.2m 65mm 4L

@Andy_Mac suggested behind the bumper outside the metal car body is empty. There are loads of mount points there too. Also that it may need some surge protection. Baffles are easy just round discs with larger bottoms hole for water and small top hole for air put on a rod before capping the pipe. Could be fancy and use fuel cell foam but that adds way more cost. Can just use the little headlight washer caps to cover the cutout in the bumper for the filler cap to look factory. Easy to get from wreckers and already factory matched paint.

Ordered parts from aliexpress. Basic first setup will be single or dual mist spray nozzle on same line with PWM for pump 1-10Hz. Single ECU wire. Have parts for alternating between spray nozzles if needed but that requires small circuit or second ecu wire. Nozzles Metal irrigation mist nozzle are cheap and range of sizes. Have a few hole sizes coming to match pumps with. Once matched then only need the best sized ones. A set of 5 with fittings is about $15 and you only need 3-4 for big front mount. Top mount should be 1-2 only. Pump The pump is apparently noisy as high pressure so likely going to have to be rubber mount under the car. Pumps come in filter or in filtered and being under car makes changing pump and filter easy as you just let it leak everywhere. Pumps also self prime if under 2m head and tank is higher so maybe 0.5m head total when under car mounted. Cost likely $15-30 depending on model and if filtered. Could use the cheap plastic fuel filter that cost a few dollars from repco etc and get cheaper pump to save money. Also then you just throw filter away and don’t have to worry about damaging while cleaning etc. Tanks 5L tanks seem easy to get, but even an old oil container would work. Boat tanks come in 5-24L have a shutoff valve in the fuel line clip and you can remove to fill them. Idea about making custom tanks for cheap. Some people like things tidy or stealth so… Just using 80mm drain pipe and capping it. Main section maybe off-cut scrap. Say the 80-100mm yellow or orange stuff in nearly 2m lengths in skip bins from buried cable yesterday. Would fit under boot floor along width of the rear. Should still allow access to spare and tools etc. Ends where fitting (to pump and filler) are would sit over the rear quarter drains just like the factory v11 setup. Only exposed bit would be filler and that could be a flexible neck so tucked away and pulled out past rear or car to fill so no spills. Needs a small breather line or plate near filler to stop air getting trapped depending on final shape.

So seems this is a thing! Found some USA forums with the same things back to 2017 where tuners won’t deal with them on aftermarket turbo setups. It was fine with stock turbo and 22psi max ramping down to 15psi Well made and good fit. Super easy to adjust vent vs recycle. Wonder if their design is the issue? Says will have some leak through piston ring which must increase with boost pressure so once you hit 25psi or more I guess they can creep open. https://gfb.com.au/tech/tech-articles/14-diverter-valve-leaks-the-effects-on-engine-performance-and-tms-solutions/ Anyone else found this?

Bonus with cover is its smaller due to no air channel for recycle valve so looks more ‘stock’ Will refit stock airbox with original top air feed and a secondary cold air from front spotlight grill into the old resonator opening. Tomorrow likely move the 4 port solenoid from side of engine bay back to stock location on manifold, since it is in way of airbox and also lines bouncing around and hitting pod filter. The cold air from spotlight grill air feed was enough to get the idle back down under 1000rpm. Before on traffic it was 1500rpm as no heat shielding at all.

SX-e compressor cover on the way. Since a BOV was fitted to intercooler and there is some surge it seems like it is a must. Under new digital LVVTA cert with photos the cover would show up so needs done before cert. Hope this will fatten up mid range and reduce intake temps a little for boost in efficiency. Power and boost is limited by ecu so it’ll still make same peak after. BW apparently has no stock and they have unfilled back orders from 2021 for parts. They have supply chain and move to china production issues.

Yes those are small, but some of the holden ones could be 3L or more. otherwise it is a flat fuel tank around 10L Sprayer tanks are too big the fuel bladders too expensive Water bladders could be ok depending of how they are mounted.

Ok so this is now the dumping ground for ideas related to water spray for intercoolers. Looking at adding one to mine and have a few methods. One wire aftermarket ecu controlled or manual switch. Cycles through zones and fixed rate. mutli wire ecu controlled pumps and zones rates controlled same as Sti factory off, manual, auto option. Basically same as first but wire for external button Design that anyone can make bolt in and wire up from cheap parts Has a few options for sprayer as well from constant full coverage to multi zone spray mist multizone is so more evaporation time between the spray or each area Same with pumps, I have found some fancy pulsed type and also ann option to use windscreen washer type or high pressure irrigation pumps.

looking for a washer or overflow tank to fit boot of Sti but all the websites are s*** and Dayco won’t let you see measurements without a dealer account.

Or water to air is always an option

PW top mount can deal with 500whp on e85 or more easy and that is bigger and may have nicer inlet dividers. PW 530 x 193 x 90mm Fx 530 x 190 x 95mm The 2 vs 2.5 isn’t the issue they list WRX and STI which is a concern. The wrx has lower intake and throttle body. That is why PW has the vertical top mount for wrx not Sti. If you have sti then looks like could be a good value option.