Gripless

The details will appear here and across YouTube and I’m guessing Facebook. I was going to add more in extra posts but needed to wait for a bit or it merges them all into one. So far the engine has been purchased and picked up. The engine should come with everything including twin scroll headers and stock sti turbo. Plus some extras like a baffled sump and a twisted turbo adaptor. So there will be a heap of stock parts to sell off.

What is this project? Its an engine build with a discussion and details about options and trade offs building an engine. Hopefully heaps of photos and video. Why? Because I couldn’t find the details I wanted online in one place and heaps of builds leave out the discussion on why they picked the parts and what flow on effects it makes. Plus after @Joker posted about Facebook YouTube take over I saw a motor and it seemed like a good idea at the time. Whats with the name? It came for a PM from @PBMS as the base engine for this is a EJ207 W block with a suspected cracked piston that on one has looked at yet. Until it’s opened there’s no idea on what’s inside. When does it start? It started March 2019. Where is it? it will be in this topic mostly and across Possum Bourne MS YouTube etc. before the engine is assembled I hope to video in 4K all the parts and write up the reasoning behind each How long? over the next few months since the engine is a donor the cars stays on the road. Whats the plan? Build a great motor with well through your part selection. Everything is pretty much open to ideas as things are added to the list. Initial thoughts are: - build it for around 800hp (was 600hp) and then street it about 500whp. - Stay 2.0 as the cost of stroking it is higher and I can’t seem to own a car that won’t rev out to at least 8,000 rpm - CNC the heads since it isn’t that much - Cams around 264 but has dual AVCS so maybe bigger, but needs to be streetable - close deck maybe depends on block condition

Technically it was yesterday but brought a new engine that needs a rebuild. Came with a bunch of extra bits like exhaust and turbo that won’t be required.

I had the option of 6 or 8 and seems like that still since 2013 changes. Forward to strut towers optional but adds a lot of strength to chassis for handling http://manual.motorsport.org.nz/index.php/knowledgebase/36-2-01b-schedule-a-2/#a2-5 Motorsport nz standards. the thing is changing and extending a half cage to full gets hard to weld all the bars together 360 degrees around and may result in the roof coming off and coupes the rear glass as well you can offset the weight by removing the factory side intrusions etc.

Yeah someone smart on here will answer just so you don’t end up with a non fitting pipe.

Is there a different down pipe for the auto v4 like with the newer cars?

Yeah they are a thing but not always fitted when they should be. that’s why I asked about factory rims. After market ones need rings to center them on the hub and not have the wheel studs take the load like @Dre suggested swap the wheels to the back and see if the problem shifts as well. Then you can see if it’s wheels or the car.

Have you had a wheel alignment not just the wheels balanced? Are you running stock rims? Also hit any pot holes that could have bent the rim or damaged the tire sidewalls? rear bushes on lower control arms wear out and crack. Can’t move them by hand but car weight can.

Finally got the aircon pump clutch face off and found it’s a circlip so no need to remove pump from car to fit new bearings. Well that’s the hope as it pretty cooked on.

How dare you shatter the illusion of the internet truth

Your error code is heater element so high boost on full throttle heat things enough to get a good o2 reading so it idles ok. O2 is usually used for self tuning at cruise or idle. At full throttle it likely goes closer to the fuel maps and so has less issues. Sound like the error code code maybe spot on. The sensors do die and faster with more power. @Niran just had one fail.

Bov can vent where ever since it’s just compressed air wastegates have to be plumbed back as that’s exhaust gas cos well cats and noise laws You can get the later model flange like on the intercooler to a pipe fitting but not much point. Just find one you like the sound of and fit it to the existing pipe. Not sure how much needs to be recirculating to not have issues on the older cars. Newer ones run 100% atmosphere without issue

https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/195831182 or https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1959160872?rsqid=90895c19f4c34520a50cb72d3436296f hose to hks mount adaptor thing there are a bunch or cheap copies that you can use for the mounts. https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1961216313 hks copy on a mount already https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1963231611 sard https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1963224393 old skool gfb or finally https://trademe.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/listing/1960967146 hks copy

What Andy said Does it idle ok after taking it for a full open throttle run? Some nice diagrams and tests for the sensor https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2450569&page=2

From a quick look while I was at a conference today. That nzdra book says you can use it for both provided it is cromolly. And meets both standards. Also has something like sub 9.90 is full cage, 11.00 is half based on a what the chassis is. Msnz cage youll have to do two club level events a year to keep it legal. Youll need to read both books and talk to a couple of shops that do drag and rally as forum world isn’t gospel

If you go forward through the firewall find someone who’s done the Subaru before. Ie go ask the rally guys. The last place I when had templates for all the cuts in the body so it looked great. Rally places may already have something they have planned and ready to bend up fast.

WIf you need a full cage then you need a Motorsport authority card which makes it road legal and no LVVTA cert required. Ive has both in cars and were done by road rally race, Ralliart. I was lucky and got one done by a guy over here from Ozzie Supercars looking for extra work. Cromolly cost more and can’t be repaired if you bend it. also the handling changes with a full cage and the chassis flex vanishes. https://www.nzdra.co.nz/images/downloads/NZDRA-RuleBook-2018.pdf Section 5.63

Do you need a full cage or just the roll bar half cage? if it’s a half cage you can just cert it via LVVTA. Full cage requires licence and money

I thought about it. So dusty, need to get it serviced so someone else cleans it.

They do exist “does my arse look fat in this?” Not only dumb but it’s a trap too.

Canbus is 3.3v or 5v like most logic circuits isn’t it?

If the link doesn’t end in .jpg it won’t auto display the image so make sure you copy the correct link from the site you are hosting from. plus make sure you are pasting the text link not trying to paste the image into the post.

It’s built into many can bus comms chips. It maybe something you have to connect or set via i2c or maybe a raw command. my arduino sheild has the functionality and it was cheap

SocketCAN? Some CAN bus interface cards can have pre filters you can set so they only pass through those events that come from a select address range to the serial/USB port connected to the laptop or Pi.

Could remove the casing and replace with something like this fuel cell foam https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/450-phantom-extension/ https://fuelsafe.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/600x600/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/n/internal_fuel_pump_with_foam_baffeling.jpg Or cut to fit https://www.harmonracingcells.com/store/c37/Cut-to-Fit_Foam_Blocks.html