Gripless

But hood scoop

True there will a big part in how they tested. Would be nice to know if they intended to write that up before they started. hopefully it was an honest comparison, but at least it was same brand of cooler. even still with all the pipe work and massive cooler the front mount still looks like a better deal. would like to see the stock cooler as well

@LorenI think you've taken my earlier post the wrong way. I was only saying 5-30 or 10-40 won't make much difference, not to ignore the whole rating system for brand only. The temp I was talking about is the one from the book base do no where the car is to be used. Depends who supplied them the oil and there costings and bulk purchasing, it's a business after all. I'd stick with full synthetic for modern cars.

@mlracing.co.nz posted some under Process west @pl0x embedded it in the topic on Intercooler piping seems like for the $550 difference between the two coolers it's worth it. id like to know how much work is involved in installing the front mount though as top mount is super quick to swap. Plus hard to see from photo if the stock BOV mount is still there.

Not saying both numbers don't mean anything. But it is the additives the provide the wear protection and how many other things are in the oil. and for that matter aren't additives what enables multi grade oil in the first place. Things like race oils have less detergent and need changing more often. otherwise why get synthetic brand name oil and not cheap unbranded stuff? having said that I've seen wear testing where Mobil 1 got beaten by the cheaper Mobil super 1 but then it may rate better in other types of test.

Hmm I though it was 100 degrees F not C. my bad

If you read the manuals usually the oils recommended based on the local temperature ranges. If you live up north or the bop and go to ski fields then you'll maybe see enough temp change to care. 5-30 or 5-40 will cover nz easy 10-40 wouldn't hurt unless you live in the Deep South or ski all winter. Even then it'll just take long to start and longer before you can boost the S*** out of it. its only the rating when the car is cold as it's the viscosity rating, once running its mostly down to oil quality and all the science behind the load and friction modifiers added to it.

Cheers @Joker I was still waiting for leave that far back so wasn't looking at it then.

Where or did the all go?

Noo.... Going to have to remove subwoofer

Yip but only patches of rain so far, Monday is meant to be full on rain. As long as everyone prepares then hopefully it won't rain at all. http://www.metservice.com/towns-cities/palmerston-north Do playday have any of the garages open for wet days?

I have 5w40 in mine from two different shops over the last 3 services. Currently Motul 8100 X which 100% synthetic seems as good as anything.

@pl0x so from that rotating the manifold to shortening the pipe could make more difference then diameter if length is the bigger factor. one thing I did remember is missing is the transitions in size. I know the formula sae and rally restrictors where they smoothly curve the size change have very little loss in power. Same way you have bellmouth trumpets on carbs. this would be the hardest and most costly to produce part though.

Read all that and got this as well. tight bends are bad intercooler core design is the biggest factor for real world. Which makes sense as there are some terrible designs with nasty bends at the entry and tiny passages through them. pipe size makes little difference compared to those two if like @A_J_T said you stay about the outlet size. other than that's is complex physics interactions wizardry no one really can explain well that makes little difference.

That is the theory, I did write that poorly, meant area to expand into to drop the speed. But to have increased velocity won't you have more pressure and therefore heat since it is a confined space? Also wouldn't it be ideal to have matched to throttle size for when the throttle opens then the pressure wouldn't drop from the expansion of going through the larger throttle area. Like using it as a storage tank for the already pressurized and cooled air. it may be a balance between less ideal in the pipe and more ideal in the cylinder. maybe that also gets balanced with throttle response. Ok at this point it does my head in as too many factors. Need someone with flow modeling software to try it. Someone must have somewhere on the Internet.

My guess is air speed and expansion as it cools could be a factor. the velocity out or the turbo and heat are both high, at the throttle cooler and slower.

@Batbaruman yeah exactly and also how you drive or race and the road conditions. Linear power is pretty nice when it's wet and rainy or slow traffic compared to everything else it's all a trade off. rally is all gears and most of the rev range race is mid to high rpm range once started some engine braking and mid corner throttle drag is all redline and only enough rpm for gear rpm drop But there is also the newer cars with si drive so you can have all 3 if you wanted. Or on an after market ecu or boost controller you can have the same.

Yeah I read the process west bit, but I don't think you have to use them just its the easiest option. wow he went to town on that collector, not sure why he is crossing the headers over. i like the twin scroll cut off plate from the supra guy, but I've think they have it a little wrong. I'd have it hinged one side and mounted in the center of the twin scroll flange so when: open it allows the second scroll and separates the two halves of the manifold so the flow isn't messed up like adding the plate to a single scroll flange. closed it stops the second scroll, but opens a path for the two halves of the headers to flow through the one side.

Pro's Less heat loss less pipe total for exhaust and intercooler Longer straight from turbo option to make heaps of room moving radiator cooler and more airflow over turbo itself Con's custom pipes required new radiator and intercooler rotated intake preferred oil lines Not the norm Massively annoying Cons Oil feed and lines return system since likely below the oil level in the sump (see box for brz below) possible dry sumping Tuspeed low mount turbo pipe kit. ok o it costs way to much but otherwise all the goodness. GTX35's, GTX40's and EFR8374 AVO BRZ unequal length option for that rumble everyone loves. Just as an example as guess FA has different spacing on manifold. Does anyone know if the FA is that different, i.e. Can you just use the current sti headers.

Yip was talking WRC style dump fuel keep throttle from fully closing and watch the world burn anti lag, wasn't aware there was anything else that was truly anti lag. We were talking building boost off the line. But yes it's only to keep the turbo spinning usually. i had thought of running the secondary air pump as part of a basic anti lag system since it will provide the air without having to keep the throttle open. The down side is less vacuum so brake booster assist suffers but life is full of hard choices. launch control doesn't build boost if it's just a rev limiter as it doesn't generate load or greater exhaust volume. I'm sure you can do some trickery with fueling and get some more energy into the exhaust to assist but that's a bit more than basic launch control.

Grap the dyno plot from @Niran build thread linked below. Look at the power at each 500 rpm and the power the car makes. Even a stock turbo sti can push 145 kW at 3500 rpm while that car is still at 100 kW so you're almost 50% more power down low. Niran's already at 190 kW by 3500 rpm so almost double the power i.e. He wins. Now if you draw an imaginary line from say 2000 or 2500 rpm to the peak power. A) the plot should stay above that to be torquey and good to drive. It should start close and go up as vertically as possible then curve across to peak. B) exactly on that line is like BMW and Audi nice linear smooth power. C) If it stays below that line then rapidly come up like a string hanging under the two points the car will be peaky and S*** to drive daily. that one you posted is all over the place so maybe ok to drive but a bit laggy under 4000 rpm as the turbo spools slowly. if you take 10-15% for the header length and another 7-10% for drive train 4wd loss it's no as bad as it seems. plus boxers are balanced motors and weight of the block is stuff all so there are advantages to be found. oh yeah that's 254 kW on a stock turbo so some thing to think about even though it's a 2.5 sti.

Not sure these guys will do the stock ecu without ecutek fees, licenses etc but they are local. http://www.wrcdevelopments.com/about

Isn't launch control just a two step rev limiter. It doesn't build boost just holds the rpm limit low which the clutch in. anti lag will build boost but from the sounds of it you want the anti lag only while the launch limiter is active. Not sure on the link what your options have, but you could use speed as one of the conditions and under 10 kph have it enabled. It's a trick used on old ecus when you didn't have a clutch switch and you only want something to work on launch.

Stock ecu

Yes but that 22 psi is low down in the sub 4000rpm range as the Stock Wastegate actuator and pill can't hold more than about 15 psi well before the redline which is why the peak power isn't as high. The area under the curve is about 30% greater which is what makes a car fast and drivable. Peak power isn't everything That plot you put up looks like it will drive like a modified vtec, nothing then everything like a switch. I have a dyno plot here of a ej20 on 14 psi making 214 kW at the wheels. The plot is a straight line from 2500 up to 7250 rpm and 214 kW then flat to 8000 rpm.