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Everything posted by Gripless

  1. once you hack up the valve see if it has a one way in it so people know if you can drive with the fault. how much for blanking plates?
  2. Check the boost lines are all ok and no boost tap hidden away from the previous owner.
  3. How many people are running these and which one or brand? seems to be highly recommended idea for the EJ but the prices for them seems crazy.
  4. https://www.kathmandu.co.nz/travel/travel-essentials/travel-towels.html you just missed the 40% post Xmas sale. Macpac etc all have similar products and sales. Id still stick with regular towels with the deeper pile so it won't scratch if anything ends up in it. Then again I dont clean the car often.
  5. Actually won't boost cut log a fault code about waste gate or is that later models only?
  6. I'm with everyone one above on its the boost cut. high gear,low rpm and heavy throttle produces a huge amount of load that is great for building high boost pressure. if it has a aftermarket downpipe and no tuning it will be over boosting. Some stock turbos can push 24 psi or more under that low rpm load. or those manual boost controller bleed valves to raise boost in a car, bad idea with Ecu controlled boost.
  7. Most USA big brands make them. Think those ones are Russell but even edelbrock make them I think, speed bleeders is even a brand. around usd$7 each but shipping will kill you from most stores over there as its all ups or dhl. rallysportdirect takes only 4 days even the week before Xmas. Customs will take longer if you get over the nz$1000 mark including shipping. Group buy to save on shipping? That or one of the sponsors/advertisers of this site maybe able to get them.
  8. Just don't make the mistake of jacking up one side of the car only. For Swaybars it's got to be level on the ground or both wheels in the air or the bar is under high tension.
  9. Speedbleeders... The bleed valve on the brakes has a one way valve inside. Normally they are just a hollow tube. So you loosen the bleeder it doesn't leak immediately, as the little spring in the one way valve stops it. But once you press the pedal it bleeds as normal, but when you let off the pedal it seals and air can't get back in. You can bleed brakes without anyone helping. It's like having four of those little self bleeder bottles built it. Still need a but of tube and container to collect the mess and not clover the inner guards. Even if someone is helping still prevents accidentally letting air in. Cut away picture
  10. Swaybars can slide around. Later models have steal bands and aftermarket ones come with clamps to stop it. There may have just been a band around there that's fallen off. As @evowrx said grease may have prevented one side not rusting. One bush may have been replaced before and they never greased it. those brackets are weak which is why white line Swaybars come with extra braces to link them back to the subframe. You can buy them separately as well I think, but they come with the bigger Swaybars in the bag. I'd get a level or string with weight at the end and see if both sides are the same angle. Could be just something was there, even so coloured paint that was wasn't then. if you're worried about the car being straight, some panel shops will put your car on a laser level and measure the chassis compared to factory spec. Within 3mm is fine and don't panic if one or two measurements are out on the screen as they get checked as it's usually a bolt or something sticking in the way of the laser. The shop will check these and let you know and mark the printout.
  11. Tracking fuel? F*** that. I'd just want to know about what is normal.
  12. So what do people get on the built in dash display of km per litre? since they rest and are based on the current trip counter they are easy to reset. best I've ever gotten was 10.0 on motorway roll, but more recently it's dropped back to 9.6 at the best. most of the time it's down in the 7.4 range.
  13. Odd? What are you American? They will be metric like most European stuff. brakes and seats are imperial in lots of cars even if the rest in metric for some very annoying reason. rallysportdirect.com has speed bleeders to fit, they list them as Sti 02-14 and evo 9-10 so sounds like Brembo have a standard size of m10 x 1.0 so metric 10mm thread and 1.0mm thread pitch. That is the same as the 350z etc as well so must be some options.
  14. yes fees are low, the test is easy, but ever left the missus home with only a race car when she wants to go somewhere and she doesnt have a race license
  15. @Loren Two diffferent things,wasn't too clear on that. Half cage is WOF only and no Motorsport licence deal. Not great, but good for daily street car and no hassles anyone can drive car. front bar go to custom boxed sections in footwell, again not great but in a pre 2008 Japanese car it stiffens thing up massively. Ever tried... Hey honey you just need to sit this test, pay money and compete in events to drive the car again.
  16. Well they have part numbers in the Cusco catalogue so I'd say it's valid enough. Not that you'd ever want a bolt or bolt together one though. Once you get an 8 point cage and realise how soft your car is and have to pull a few kg's of Spring rate to cope it's sad. or lvvta allows a half cage with front intrusion bars to the footwell. Great for a daily as you don't have to climb over the bars and it stiffens up the car heaps.
  17. Seems this affects the 08-14 as well on overseas forums so guess the "what did you do to your car today" thread is going to be filled up. @shady let us know how it works with jbweld
  18. @Andy_Mac when you cut yours up was there a one way valve as well so if they fail the exhaust can't flow into the plastic pump? can you drive around if the main valve fails? Possum Borune Motorsport had the blanking plates really cheap, nothing like the 3D CNC alloy shiny ones but they work. i asked wtf the plastic pump thing was for. turns out unlike Evos you dont use it for anti lag, though someone should.
  19. F*** you must have a spare parts bin... Depends how sick of the issue you are but if you swap one coil at a time you'll know which is the problem. mark the plugs with which cylinder they came out of. Masking tape and a vivid works so you don't mix them up for later inspection. Or easy for smart people to see in photo if you post one. thats a high idle! Not sure what caused that... Does your car have an idle control valve? Did the idle start hunting or was it rough when the issue started? Idle stepper motor maybe shorted. Again not familiar with Subaru just guessing from other cars. 2500 is the cold idle temp isn't it (think that's what my one does)? What's the Ecu think the water temp is? That would alter fueling a could fowl plugs etc. again some of the smart people on here maybe able to tell you more about the Ecu side. only time I've had idle that high was throttle not sealing when I ran a bored out throttle, but could be throttle position not reading correctly. Should be able to see it if you have a cable, even a cheap one can read to OBDII which may have TPS.
  20. Is this coil over plug or common coil? Could be coil drawing too much, a broken lead wouldn't increase draw I don't think just have failed spark. Not sure how to test that other than swap it out. Got any Subaru mates that could lend you a coil. Maybe use IR temp gun on a known good car vs yours. Even that may not show enough difference due to their location. Unless you tested the temp without running the car. Could still draw a bit more current even without firing. Could wait until you have two cars cold and just turn key to on and not start and see if coil heats up a little more on your one. But now I'm really guessing or making S*** up. if it's coil over plug then one spark plug could look different. Black art of reading plugs, need an old school v8 guy for that. is the impedance the same as stock injectors. See still know nothing about Subarus... Yet.
  21. Not familiar with Subaru Ecu so no idea how they store or process fault codes. Sounds like it's running down a list so either to got a whole bunch stored or the sensors are all failing. Since you have so many faults, you have enough faults that you need to look for a common cause. Errors can happen when the sensor fails or they are outside the expected range. that range isn't always as much as the sensor itself can go, just what the programmer set as the expected range. Since the only common things I can guess at are the Ecu, loom and the alternator. check the voltage at the Ecu and its grounds. Check the voltages or resistances of the sensors, you'll need a service manual which someone here will have a link too. Check the main loom for wear and damage, main plugs and firewall. I'd unscrew the Ecu and check inside to see if anything is leaking or corroded. Was car imported from Singapore? not sure how you check but water damage and re-compliance. someone on here will know way more about how the Ecu in Subarus deals with faults etc.
  22. What boost is it running? Just waste gate or bleeding off to what? Could it have been reflashed or chipped by the previous owner? Or not tuned since the cat less down pipe (quick look at your old posts) that could explain the boost ramping. map and o2 both could be boost/heat related as, guess even same with plugs. Other alternative is bad ECU from aging like capacitors (*cough* Mitzi issue) or alternator spiking (only as topic already about bad alternator today) Again I know nothing about Subarus. Just asking some questions.
  23. @Jono24 that is sick. 10k US for a block! Seen plenty of billet v8 blocks cost that much, but damn.
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