boon

Argh just bought from them the other day ;/

Full tilt, with your car running, a headunit is outputting maybe a shade over 5vrms to the speaker outputs. Which is completely fine for an amplifiers RCA inputs... oldschool Pioneers like the P80RS would do 7v on the RCAs.... just a matter of setting the gain appropriately (i.e. all the way down)

Oversize "6.5s" annoy the crap out of me, every time it's a custom job to make them fit. Whereas 6.5's that are actually 6's (or supposed to be 6's) fit damn near anywhere with some creative positioning and enough self-tapping screws

-500 points if I can see your alarm siren. -1000 points if I can see your bonnet pin location. Just sayin'

I suspect she's boned. Probably need new ignition barrel + keys to match, at a guess. EDIT: Probably want new keys anyway since presumably the person who took the keys wouldn't mind having the car either.

Diff? Do your brakes ever feel really soft? A buggered wheel bearing will cause pad knock-off and sh!tty pedal feel.

Are they new springs? Give them a week or so to settle.

Is it an STI or just WRX? My v7 STI a. feels terribly sluggish when it's cold and b. had crazy wierd issues when the wheel bearing shat itself. To work out what side it is, turn full lock and drive in a circle, it'll only do it when the bad side is on the outside, if I remember right. The V7 STIs drive badly when cold because they have forged internals, they take a bit longer for all the tolerances to sort themselves out.

To be honest, it's going to be the triangles on the front. A bigger sway bar up front will result in MORE tendency to understeer. Tyres make a crazy difference in this regard.

Closed loop boost control. I don't wanna spend $1000 on a reflash and $700 on a good EBC when I could just spend $2000 and get a G4 instead.

Installed AVO turbo intake. SOOOOOO frustrating. Nice piece of kit though, turns out my factory one was fcked too so good to know it's fixed now. Also fixed a vaccuum leak while I was there due to a fitting not being on quite right. Makes spool and factory BOV sound pretty cool, and I think it's spooling maybe 150-200rpm earlier, at a rough guess.

I'm aiming for 230-240kw@w from my V7 in a reliable, easy-to-drive daily form. Mods list as follows: VF34 turbo (as per a Spec C) 3" Siamese Downpipe 2.5" Cat-back exhaust Tuned length headers Process West top-mount intercooler AVO Turbo intake pipe Process West cold air intake + KN Pod Aeromotive in-tank fuel pump Link G4 plugin (which handles boost control) Staying with standard injectors (565s) which will limit me to a safe amount of power for the block. Might get them decapped or replaced if it looks like I'll get another 10kw before the turbo runs out of puff but the underlying main goal is for power with factory-like reliability.

Primo. Those subs sound really good in sealed boxes... and ported... and bandpass if you want to be ambitious. Very versatile.

It's plastic on my STi. But it's been on and off a bunch of times and it still seals fine. Just don't get over-enthusiastic trying to get it to seal by cranking the bolts holding the BoV on, or you'll strip the threads in the intercooler.

Was going to say (couldn't find any on Trademe) that the DD-LE's are very capable and nicely finished. I have the 10" for a throw-in sub when I can't be bothered doing a big install, they go well.

Any Alpine dealer should be able to get you one. Will be ~$20. I got one for my 7949 a while ago and thats a helluva lot older.

02, is it a Version 7 or Version 8? AFAIK both were available in 2002. I don't think the internals will be entirely reliable @ 400whp. That's 300wkw and probably 500-odd hp at the flywheel. By all accounts they're good for roughly 250wkw as a safe/everyday kinda thing. What mods do you have already? If you haven't already, a full turbo-back exhaust and more open intake will change how it drives, drastically. You could even get a reflash and have a safe, reliable ~220wkw without too much trouble. The Spec C turbos are really pretty damn good turbos on a street car. Big turbos are fun but when they're only getting spooled at 4500rpm and you're shifting at 5k most of the time then you'll have a lot more fun with a setup that makes 20psi @ 3000rpm and snaps the revs from 3000-5000 before you can even think about it. EDIT: If you're fixed on changing the turbo, check out the Blouch Dominators. They're big, built around Garrett ball-bearing cores, fit the factory position, reasonably affordable and will flow more than you'll ever need on a daily driver.

You got 147.6db from a Fusion 13" sub in a repco sealed box? What was the meter, an iPhone or something? 147.6dB (on a Termlab) from a 12" sub takes about 3000wrms and a bloody good ported box. Been there done that.

My V7 doesn't have them but the V10 *beer crate* I bought had provision for them... if that's any help. Wtf the forum apparently modifies se at to say *beer crate* tonight? EDIT: Testing, seat

Love reading your blog. Echoes a number of my thoughts. Also, WTF why is my bloody Autowatch no longer star rated? That thing is a damn good alarm, and with the hours spent installing it and extra cunning it ought to keep my car a lot safer than the shall-remain-unnamed "5-star" alarm install by a shall-remain-unnamed installation service just on top of the steering column with the drivers door state not detected by the alarm... EDIT: More WTF, does this affect my insurance? F*ckers! EDIT: OK, more reading shows that it is now star-rated again, which should placate my insurance company. Grumble grumble...

exactly what i planned to do but never knew you could get rims on a cert plate.. What about say camber arms and sway bars and nolathane bushes etc?? should i include that in the "have everything done" ?? Rims, yes. Although I think rolling diameter and ride height are more important. Camber arms, definitely. Sway bars, no, if they use normal mounts. Bushes, no.

They shouldn't have pulled you up on sub box not being in there right... there's no mention of that in the Vehicle Interior - Stereo Equipment bit. But I suppose they can be dorks if they want to.

Zerosports World Leaguer sounds really nice IMO... kind of like an angry helicopter chasing you when you give it some jandal.

It's not really like a WoF, if you've sent it in to get a cert for adjusties they don't give a sh!t if there's rust in your doors, that's for the WoF man to look at. Check this out: http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf It has simple, concise information about what needs a cert and what doesn't. Make sure you keep up a good dialogue with your cert guy, so they know what you want on the cert plate. If you ask nicely they can cert some things fairly broadly which gives you room to modify things slightly in the future without needing it re-certed. I'm currently working through whether I need to re-cert my car, which will be a bit of a pain but if you're doing things by the book that's how it's gotta be. Also remember that if you've modified the suspension it will be certed at that height and you can't change it more than +/- 5% so make sure it's in the middle of the height range you want before you get it done. You can be pink stickered for being outside that range, and yes, some cops will get the tape measure out at the side of the road and check!

GDA** GDB = Brembos... I'll get my coat...