Jump to content
Please check your junk folder for registration emails ×

boon

Admin
  • Posts

    6,004
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    226

Everything posted by boon

  1. Yeah my old man's EZ30R Outback goes bloody well, similar power to a WRX but it's all there as soon as you touch the go pedal.
  2. Note this quote... "Our claims data shows that a vehicle with no alarm is 1.3 times more likely to be stolen than a vehicle with an alarm." Only 1.3 times? Shows the pathetic state of most alarm installations in NZ. Pro car thieves don't even care if a car is alarmed because they know they can probably bypass it easily. A quality alarm installed painstakingly should make a car just about unstealable without towing it. A couple of extra relays in some dastardly places and they'll be there for hours trying to work out why there's no fuel, no spark and a bunch of extra sirens screaming at them from all over the car.
  3. boon

    LVVTA

    I think it may well just be RWD only... due to the tendency for the car to instantly flip over if the driveshaft snaps and hits the ground at speed.
  4. WTF, ElGrand? What are they nicking them for? The VQ35DE V6 or something? Honda Torneo will be because they're easy, I think there was a grand total of like 9 key patterns for that car if I'm thinking of the right one. One slightly bulky keyring and all the Torneos/Accords are yours for the taking...
  5. Mine was mint... when we swapped my headers (to Prova tuned length) we left the original up-pipe on because it was marginally larger and didn't have a leaky flexi in it
  6. boon

    LVVTA

    It's only if you do an engine conversion. But if the engine conversion is the same size, configuration and family as the original you still shouldn't need hoops, as far as I understand it.
  7. boon

    LVVTA

    Wtf, did you swap the motor or something? That's never come up when I've been talking to my cert guys.
  8. boon

    LVVTA

    If you change the ECU to a single turb one, you need a cert. Pretty sure at least. (Technically)
  9. Me likey. If only it was 4wd.
  10. Will I be able to do a boost map on a G4 that will stop this happening? I presume you can have gear + throttle + rpm = only 16psi please or something like that.
  11. I guess so... damn it, I build the thing so it's finally torquey enough that I don't always have to chop it down and now it can't handle the boost it makes when I can't be bothered grabbing 5th... heh. Oh well.
  12. Seeing as it's going for $4000, its probably quite a cheap Falcon, even if you do have to buy a new bonnet but that'll be offset by selling the supercharger after you undo the ratchet straps and take it down from sitting on top of the intake manifold.....
  13. It's a dressed up WRX - the yanks didn't get the STi until 2004, I do believe. Definitely not in the bug-eye series anyway.
  14. Would make sense. Went to a pod filter recently, an oiled one too if I'm not mistaken. Might clean the AFM and see if it helps, otherwise it can wait until I go MAFless with a Link.
  15. BOV is on the coldside... standard BOV location on a V7... Compressor surge it is then... heh, will just chop it down to 5th in the future.
  16. Took my STI up Turoa a couple of times over the weekend. Found that when it was hot (i.e. just driven me and 3 mates up the mountain road) plus at altitude (Turoa carpark is at 1600m) the idle would hunt, sometimes between 1000-1500rpm. Listening to the exhaust and watching the motor I could almost swear it was missing every few seconds. When I came back at the end of the day, it would idle absolutely fine. When it's hot at sea level, it idles fine. Likewise cold + sea level idles completely OK. Any ideas?
  17. Yeah it did sound a bit like that... wierd. Shouldn't the wastegate do something useful to stop that? Do I need to enlarge the hole in the restrictor pill or something? It'll get a Link and good boost control by Christmas anyway...
  18. Damn it! This is my friend's partner's car. C*cksuckers! What a pain in the arse.
  19. Noticed this first over the weekend... never had it happen before, but I only very recently added a new intake pipe and I wonder if the decrease in restriction was the straw that broke the camels back... Relevant stuff: V7 STI VF34 Process West topmount AVO turbo intake Process West CAI + Pod Stock BOV. No change to boost control 3" Siamese into 2.5" midpipe In 6th gear, going up a decent hill, WoT, around 3000rpm I heard a rapid chattering/fluttering which sounded very much like the BOV was opening and shutting very rapidly. Doesn't happen in any other gear, even with WoT pulls through to 6krpm or whatever I can do safely. Is this the mysterious 20psi by-design leak I have heard about from the factory V7 BOV? I don't have a boost gauge so it's entirely possible it is boosting at least 20psi. It would make sense if it was pushing the valve open slightly over and over again, that's more or less what it sounded like. Car was still pulling hard. Any suggestions?
  20. Warning: Parameter 1 to modMainMenuHelper::buildXML() expected to be a reference, value given in /users/clubsub/www.clubsub.org.nz/htdocs/libraries/joomla/cache/handler/callback.php on line 99 That is all.
  21. Some are a restrictor pill, they just look like a bead with a tiny hole in the middle. The direction of these doesn't matter. Some, like the brake booster hose, have a 1-way valve in them that will only allow vaccuum, not boost... otherwise when you got on the boost you could pressurise your brake booster and that would be rather unfortunate. These have to be the right way around.
  22. Newer cars have very complex boost maps... they're based on throttle position, engine load, IAT, RPM, gear selection and probably a million other things. You might get 15psi in 2nd at WOT up to 5000rpm but in 4th at 2/3rds throttle it might only get to 10psi and decide that's enough.
  23. Mine got MORE fuel efficient as I modded it... free-flowing intake and exhaust = damn near nil engine braking, especially in 6th on the highway... can just about roll everywhere once you get it up to speed.
  24. More or less... takes a lot of power or a very slippery surface to spin up all 4...
  25. A stroker kit will cost you epic, epic amounts. 270wkw is easy enough on an un-stroked block. Just get rods and pistons, cams would be nice and maybe a little bit of port work but the heads should flow ~300wkw without too much trouble as-is. Save the money and put it into turbo and fueling, they're the things that will get you to your power goals.
×
×
  • Create New...