Individualities
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Posts posted by Individualities
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Asking out of clarification -
What's the rules around running replacement LED bulbs in your stop/tail etcetera sockets? Basically all my external and interior bulbs are LED (not low/high beam and fog lights - they're all extra bright models though).
I know it's now illegal to run HID/LED in sockets meant for halogen originally.
Friend of mine said that LEDs now have to SAE approved?
Just asking for clarification on my end, as I don't really want to have to do away with a few hundred dollars worth of LEDs
, and the cool factor of them 
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On 1/7/2019 at 9:36 AM, HannesNel said:
Gents, my exterior rubber seals and trims for doors,etc. are in bad condition. Are there generic rolls I can buy to replace all seals and trims?
When I redid my ford about 3 years ago one could buy these in rolls of 10-20meters. Any idea if this is available for 06 legacy's?
My only advice with this is go to Subaru, and get the genuine stuff.
Gotta thank Subaru for doing frame-less windows...
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@harleyrabbison there is this Type R coupe in Auckland...
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Getting the suspension arm one's out can usually be done with sockets and a press/vice (press is always better).
Subframe ones are usually total pricks to get out. In my experience I've burned the rubber out with a Oxy-eceteline torch, then cut the metal tubes out by putting a cut in them, and then they usually tap out.
If worst comes to - take the subframe out (and arms), and give it to a shop for them to remove the bushings, and fit the new ones (unless you're going polyeurathane).
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On 1/9/2019 at 11:54 PM, Ninja8) said:
Avcs camwheels can be a right pain in the arse to remove without the proper cam pulley holder tool. And they are now allen key camwheel bolts.
I found removing my cam pulleys to be no problem with a power bar and a set of 3/8 allen sockets.
Keeping the belt on while cracking them loose them is needed, unless you have an impact gun that can fit in the tight space.
IIRC the torque for the cam pulleys is 98Nm? The crank pulley is over 200Nm, or f***ing tight in my mind lol. I didn't over tighten it though - just felt it up from when I un-did it.
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I need to make a visit to my regular Panel Beater tomorrow - I'll ask them if they can recommend anyone!
Will update this response...
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1 hour ago, HannesNel said:
Thansk gents. Yip, I want to attempt to do it myself.
A cool head is needed for a Subaru cambelt - especially a DOHC one. There's a lot going on, and lining everything up can be a bit of a challenge. Took me 3 attempts to get the passenger side cams (when looking at the engine from the front) lined up, then belt on (the timing marks for them are such that the cams are under load when correctly timed - drivers side cams are unloaded when timed). Almost like I needed 3 hands.
Don't be afraid to ask for help! I'm sure one of the other members on here in Wellington would happily give you a hand!
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I've heard 70,000 - 100,000km depending on the person (lower due to the length of the belt). 5 years is generally the go-to years, as the hydraulic tensioner generally starts to fail after 5 years, resulting in improper tension on the belt.
This video gave me the courage to do my cambelt! They don't go through how to do cam/crank-seals, but I'd imagine they'd be pretty easy. There is a process IIRC to removing AVCS cam pulleys - there will be a video out there.
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1 hour ago, iludez said:1 hour ago, Individualities said:Imagine what it would be like with a 6 speed, and those shorter ratios.
Yeah man I can imagine, though this does have a short shifter installed
If you ever get a chance to, do so.
Also same with a S401 - the 6 speed with the twins is rather fun!
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56 minutes ago, tigerstyle said:
Thanks all, got around to phoning the dealer and they do the prices on trade special for all, so cambelt kit is $345+GST and waterpump with thermostat/gasket etc is $109+GST
Not worth anything else at that price!
Geez! That's a good price!
I'm considering re-doing my cambelt etc if I go Single Turbo. Have to pull it off to get at a turbo oil feed and block it. Definitely going genuine, but depending on price, Gates Blue Racing belt.
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13 minutes ago, iludez said:
My bp5 wagon was definitely fast but this just feels so damn quick in second gear. Goes so so well.
Imagine what it would be like with a 6 speed, and those shorter ratios.
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28 minutes ago, Kiwiflyboy said:
Removing the metal shielding when I used to go to the track that was on the back of the discs made a massive difference to heat. I damaged one and removed it and the next time I went on the track was a a massive difference in temp and wear on the brake set up each side
Some cars don't even have these. I've always wondered why. Now that's possibly one reason (saw this on a C63 Merc I worked on).
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Host the images on another site, like Imgur for example.
Then click "Insert Other Media" - Image from URL
I'm not sure if PartSouq would have any diagrams that would help. Have a dig through.
If you can't get it to search your VIN number (factory VIN, not the one applied by by VTNZ so it could be registered), use my car's VIN number. It's a BE sedan (same model etc as yours, just sedan not wagon).
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Any bearing that's made in Japan is good. Genuine would ofc be made in Japan (probably would be a NSK bearing or something).
Would avoid Repco stuff, unless you're in a pinch. Repco brand stuff is pretty bad lol. Especially their RTQ pads.
I've usually gone to Saeco Wilson for bearings in the past, if you have like a random one, that doesn't correspond to any sort of kit. They supply a lot of stuff to engineering shops/workers, so only use the best stuff.
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31 minutes ago, Andy_Mac said:
@Individualitiessince the clunk happens on liftoff after long pulls as well the trans and engine mounts will probably be the first things I replace, have been torn between group N and those Hardrace ones.
Super keen to buy a semi decent press so I can do most bushes myself and not have to go for poly ones.
Hardrace also make race versions of the same mounts. Not sure how they would compare to the Group N ones.
A vice, hammer, and some cheap sockets = cheap press
. If you know someone who has a press, or have a mate who works at an automotive shop, just go round after work hours and use it then.
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1 hour ago, sobanoodle said:
My BR9 came with warped stock discs and was shaking madly when braking from around 110/115 down to a hundred. Passenger seat (when vacant) would be jumping all over the place, rather embarrassing
I've worked on my fair share of cars with stuffed rotors/drums. I've had it so bad once in a customers car it was shaking the whole car! Nissan Patrol - have to pull the front bearings apart and all that to replace the rotors
. I was paid to do it though! Plus Ford Falcon's and Holden Commodore's are known for warped front rotors. 1.8T(ish) of car, with inadequate brakes.
What you've got there is warped rotors - you said you feel it in the pedal, and you can see it in the steering wheel. If you feel it in the pedal still after doing the front rotors, the back ones will be warped too most likely.
Best get some slotted ones (if you haven't already)! If you plan on doing more track work, probably worth getting some track pads for the front to swap in at the track too. My Dad did this back when he had his Impreza STI. No point in doing the rears, just some good fast road pads/street pads will be fine.
Andy, you're missing out on the shifter bushings! They're AMAZING! From the slight sloppiness I had, to tight AF, it was one of the best things I've done to my car!
Can understand though why you haven't done them yet though. The horizontal bolt can be a c*** to get out, depending on which way the head is (I got lucky, I think).
If your trans/engine mounts are on the tired side too, look at the Hardrace set.
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Could always go to your usual mechanic, ask for the parts, and ask for genuine.
This is just my personal opinion - since this isn't a turbo car, you would be fine with a Gates, Optibelt, or other well known OE brand. Same with the water pump. Only thing to note is you don't want the bearings in the various idlers being Made in China. Made in Japan stuff like NSK is the good stuff.
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I was gonna have a chat to @ADIKT in the first week of December about this. Basically just making sure it's all good etc.
By the sounds of things, Mangawhai it is (I'm happy with that cos it's closer to home
), on Saturday the 19th or Sunday the 20th (poll here).
I'm happy to mob to Langs after too.
Mangawhai Tavern is a good option.
The Dune is probably another good option. The owners have 2 highly regarded restaurants in Whangarei (The Quay & No.8). Plus their other one nearby called The Cove in Waipu Cove. They've also opened up a new place in Tauranga!
Kai Iwi Lakes is an excellent spot! Is it a bit of a long haul for the Auckland fellas though. More of a place to spend a couple of days camping and chilling though.
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3 hours ago, pl0x said:
A mate has done it recently into a bc5, took him a month or two but knows what he is doing and has the tools.
Made a radiator top joiner/cross over pipe so he could use a factory rad, seems to be working.
Link g4 extreme, wired using factory engine loom and link a/b looms
Falcon throttle body (bolt on i think), unsure on what throttle cable he used.
Still not cheap.
Which EZ30 did he use? The first gen (came in BE/BH), or 2nd gen (BL/BP)?
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2 hours ago, Andy_Mac said:
With a link wouldn't be an issue at all but the cost starts to really blow out once you start going down that route
Once you start modifying a car, it starts getting expensive.
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On 11/19/2018 at 6:04 PM, Andy_Mac said:
The older single ex port BE/BH 3.0’s should work a treat on a stock ECU. BL/BP ones are considerably more complicated and would need a crap tonne of electrical know-how to get running without a Link, if possible at all...
The guy in NZ that did the BL/BP EZ30 swap into a GC chassis used a Link G4+. Mind you, that car took him like 5 years lol.
The EZ30 from the BL/BP is more complicated due to having AVCS (& AVLS?) on the intake cam. Plus it has Drive By Wire Throttle and all that economy stuff, that you basically remap to be like a cable throttle.
I've thought about doing this swap myself, into a BH Legacy - kinda like @whitebait19's Lancaster, but with the BL/BP EZ30 and a 6 speed.
Seeing that beautiful car around town a fair bit doesn't help with the temptation too
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58 minutes ago, IZichard said:
It is called an Anti Lift Kit for a reason 😉
Edit: “Whiteline Anti Lift Kits are primarily designed to improve traction and cornering grip under power. By increasing static caster and improving front end geometry the new alloy mounts coupled with low compliance synthetic elastomer bushings serve to dramatically sharpen initial turn-in response and reduce understeer.”
That's the smart way to say it
I wanted a more simplified definition lol.
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25 minutes ago, 1randomkiwi said:
Complete headlight swaps are allowed, but you can't fit LED or HID to a lens that was designed for halogen etc.
And no, not even cert-able.
https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps#note8
I like this. A lot.
Although, still have to deal with the JDM cars that have factory reflector HID setups.
Had a flick through the link too, and my +150% low beam HID bulbs, +110% High & Fog Halogen bulbs are legal! All around the 4500K colour. All bulbs are straight replacements for factory bulbs. I have not modified them in anyway. Just bought Osram/Philips extra bright bulbs.
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, and the cool factor of them 
. I was paid to do it though! Plus Ford Falcon's and Holden Commodore's are known for warped front rotors. 1.8T(ish) of car, with inadequate brakes.
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted · Edited by Individualities
That is incredibly vague. The LEDs I have bought are designed to diffuse light in a similar, or even better manner compared to a incandescent.
Asked my old boss, from when I was mechanic. Turns out that retrofitted LEDs aren't allowed at all anymore. All I could find myself about them is that retrofitted LEDs don't meet the "performance" of manufacturer specified bulbs (incandescent). I think it's BS personally, as all the LEDs I have bought are either Osram or Philips branded, which diffuse light better than incandescent bulbs. Plus they're all like $50 a pair, and I have 6 pairs in my car.
So for a WoF, I'll need to swap them all back to incandescent - get the WoF, and put all the LEDs back in. My old boss prefers them as they respond faster, and don't appear to have a warm up time (to the naked eye).
Gonna tag @1randomkiwi here, as I know he's nuts on his LEDs too.
Edit: interior retrofitted LEDs are OK. It's just the exterior ones.