wildturkey

this guy has similar prob http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,13220.0.html

process of elimination I'm afraid bro............you've just described a very similar problem I had that first presented as warped rotors but wasn't........so after getting them skimmed the problem was still there........next was alignment........no problem there...........so finally isolated it to faulty caliper.....probably a sticky piston. Just swapped out caliper prob solved. So if u still got probs after swapping rotors and checking alignment...........try caliper swap........or recon

great idea........tautoko ;D

that's a lot of coin for a 2nd hand engine installed..........i hope u don't take up the offer you've made a good start by posting in here Tardme is ur friend.......and someone in here just may have a spare lying around Give us some more details on ur car

adjusted the swaybar, resealed the leaky tailite unit, vacuum inside and wash'n wax........ ;D

from memory I think the factory boost on VF8 was 8psi with fuel/boostcut around the 12/13psi mark. I can't explain why u have been able to run 15psi with no cut....but good on u if you can ;D

i'm out........shit outside and my fire's nice and warm ;D

yep very nice

just a bit of an update for any other BC5'ers interested in this.......... Jase found these Jaycar kits that have dwell time adjustment http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5442&CATID=25&form=CAT&SUBCATID=347 http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5386&CATID=25&form=CAT&SUBCATID=347

cheers bro........prefer to have them running at the optimum dwell time to minimise any coil/ignition related probs I mite get on dyno day. Have had some good direction from RSliberty members on this one...... and some electronically minded peeps on dobc are looking at maybe knocking up a dwell time workaround Will let you know how it goes......... ;D

cheers that's good to know...........I'll pm you

lol.....cheers..........I thort u was takin the piss until i googled it

I'm looking for help with a possible "workaround" to a little problem. I'll be doing the Bosch HEC 716 coil mod but they like to run more dwell time than what the factory RS ECU provides........and from what I'm told....there is no dwell time adjustment in my Unichip software The Bosch coils like to run 4-5ms (milliseconds) of dwell time.......whereas the factory RS ECU only pulses at around 1.7-2ms The factory ECU WILL run the Bosch coils............but they run better with more dwell I've been told of a possible ECU mod to increase the dwell time on the factory RS ECU to 4ms Below is all the info that's been given to me so far and I've asked for a more detailed walkthru... For those of you "electronically minded" (I'm not ;D).....how simple does this mod appear at face value?..........think you could do it? "If you know somebody who is good with analogue/digital electronics, im sure a small circuit could be made to turn the 2ms pulse from the stock ECU into a 4ms pulse. It would be a simple version of a duty cycle interceptor, but its pulse time would be fixed and would have a variable frequency"

plenty of options out there 4 ya bro..........depends how much moolah u wana throw at it. Just do the research first and have a clear picture of what you want there's plenty of people on here running the same sort of setup you're looking at............so there won't be any shortage of advice

sweet will do...........mmmm........would only do it if there were some handling gains. So lowering the centre of gravity a little more and throwing in a roll centre kit would still not give me some handling gains?

currently running King lows on the billies...........wondered if any1 had run super lows on billies?....... did they tend to bottom out over judder bars etc....... wondered if with super lows the shafts still had enuff travel in them for day to day driving (and maybe a bit of track and hills!) without constantly bottoming out? still got a bit of height there even with King lows.........could prolly lower it another 1.5 inches all round and still have inch or so clearance between wheel and guard chur

yep dvd 4 me

cheers.......that's all I need ;D

as above cheers

I think we've taken up enuff of this guys thread with this little misunderstanding Koom.......I've done my best to explain where I was coming from when I made my original post. I'll bow out gracefully here...........

I think you've misunderstood Koom........when I read Jedi's post I thought he was talking about running a boost tap and also having to run a boost gauge at the same time....the 2 together......full time If you've read anything else into that.......then let's just put it down to words on screens and how they can sometimes be interpreted diffrerently. yes......the tuner obviously used a gauge to set the boost..........but no........I don't run a boost gauge in the car (even though I run a boost tap) and never have......I hope that's cleared it up for you

tuned on the dyno yeah.......over the last 2 years I've run the boost via boost tap between 16-19psi. Everything tuned in thru the unichip. I've never run a boost gauge......just a personal choice

fair comment.........seems then I have been breaking a cardinal rule for the last 2 years

there are exceptions to some nevers ;D ;D ;D

cheers thanks