Optical

cant fault them. handle well on the track and smooth on the road

not that new those same shocks were on the prova legacy, bloody awesome bits of gear!

why should I educate the dumb? For the sake of a good discussion: Lateral arms are the same width except for the spec'c's which are 10mm wider. Also the spec c arms have a 25mm longer rear pin so the wheel sits further forward to give more caster. To accomodate the extra pin length the subframe is different n the c's. Otherwise GC and GD suspension components have the same width and length apart from some small shaping differences to give slightly different caster. The steering rack mounts are the same between GC and GD up to 2005. So the steering racks bolt up to the subframe, but have a different spline on the steering column so some custom adaption is required. GD's have wider rims from factory which gives wider track width. Hubs are slightly different to give the GD's more postive camber due to frame widths, but the offset is identical. That's what I know anyway from the stuff ive played with. Anyway, might start googling 'sti turning circle' as i want some turning circle numbers now

you are mistaken on both counts. The reduced lock is not a problem, it's just less. That's all im saying

Between which racks? Probably something to do with a GD rack in a GC

haha, i think you have mistaken me for another reubenh. Once you have experience with R RA and spec c racks come back and talk to me

dont be retarded

it's both i dont know why, but it is... more lock would be nicer, but not the same as before. wheel angle has definitely increased in relation to steering wheel angle which is all i was hoping for. Mean I dont have to take my hands off the wheel to smash hairpins now

the max wheel angle has decreased

Ive just gone from 13:1 ( with 2.6 turns lock to lock) to 11:1 (2.2 turns) Steering is much heavier and I cant do U-turns on normal roads anymore. So if that is a concern, dont bother swapping Ive got a spare 13:1 / 2.6 turn quick rack spare if anyone wants one

I believe it wrapped itself around a powerpole 500m down the road and killed a passenger? Making it fit is one thing, making it turn is another. This is not an engine swap i'd recommend for anything other than drag racing

I'd like to know too, I broke my last one

Have you heard of roll centres and camber curves? I hope you dont expect this to go around corners But nice work making it fit

$50 for new brembo discs? unlikely.. as said, it depends on rotor condition. I change pads between road and track pads frequently. Rotors are flat so there's nothing to worry about

not quite. Evey dccd car has a plated rear diff. All of these are also r180 apart from versions 1 and 2 It's the RA's, R's and spec c's that get plated rears. normal GC8 sti's get a viscous r160 lsd, normal GD sti's get a viscous r180 lsd

I had some k-sports. When i took them out i decided i couldnt even sell them and inflict that crapness on someone else

Hmm well that sucks, i liked that place Even for 8 million i'd still have a hard time feeding the grandma some love. No doubt she'd suffocate though

I'm having a good laugh. But pretty unfortunate if it isnt a 6 speed just post a photo of the gearbox from the engine bay or anywhere underneath and we can tell you. Or just copy down the gearbox code on the side of the bell housing and post it up

Went past today, looked like they have shut up shop?

not sealed obviously, but returned to you intake

Sounds very much like the issue I had recently. The reverse lockout lever on the gearbox needs to be in exactly the right pace or 5th 6th and reverse gears will just begin to act wierd, crunching and selecting the wrong one. There is a cable that goes down to the gearbox, very much like a throttle body cable, and it holds a lever in the right place. Sounds like yours needs adjusting. There is a hole to line up on the lever and the box. You adjust the cable length to get it in the right spot. I used a drill bit to align things while I adjusted the cable alternatively, your gearbox is farked

usually with old hoses they go a bit hard on the inside. If you bend or crush them, shortly afterwards they'll blow through so quite possibly they encouraged a hose to crack, but it was on the way out anyway

invest in a drum of alcohol and start makng your own E10

no it doesnt fit very well. you can swap in the entire dash and console, but nothing lines up when you try and mix'n'match

it has been extra cold lately, i had to tweak my warmup maps to make it start a bit better perhaps yours needs tweaking too. Check the fuel trim tables