Optical

The JDM avcs heads ive seen havent had the filter things in them. But someone may have pulled them out before I got to it Also garrett and IHI ball bearing turbos require a 0.9 - 1mm oil feed aperture. Any more and the core floods and oil gets pushed through the seals. Journal bearing turbos require a slightly bigger oil feed aperture, 1.3mm from memory

hmm, yeah you're right, the rails wouldnt even act in parallel as intended either. The reg with the higher pressure would never open (as the first relieves all the pressure) leaving one fuel rail as a dead end... find two identical regs and there should be no issues running two

oh whoops, i was thinking of the arm on the hub the steering rack connects to. there are a couple of different steering rack universal joints, you'll need to change it if the subframe goes up more than about 5mm. One of the impreza or leggy UJ's is bound to be a straight swap. If you can take a pic of the steering column end i should be able to tell you

Same for me, although that price would include the modified pickup which these other guys dont seem to have

I havent seen the forrester steering knuckle, but if the arm bit is higher then you will get horrible bump-steer if you dont change to wrx hubs... otherwise a whiteline roll centre adjustment kit might get you close

i thought all the turbo rods were the same before 2000? RS, wrx, STI, whatever... cant really remember though post 2000 they are pretty good

adequate for what? pre2000 rods are junk

yeah you've got to wonder

yep, all that and more

dont bother, go aftermarket

Yeah Carson full of good buggers for sure

Yeah was going to say, if you want better steering feedback, put a quick rack into it! Check my for sale thread, I have a couple of cheap quick racks.

Damn, i run the same oil and got nowhere near the same oil temp, i hit 90 max all day. Topping up wiht about 1/2 a litre extra in the morning. I was shifitng at around 7k each time and backing off once i hit 6500 in 5th on the back straight. And as NewSuba said i was in a gear higher than norm during cornering. One day i'd like to get to the bottom of why your oil doesnt heat up, are you hiding a cooler somewhere?

And race fuel! Anything's possible. Probably 240 without all that

unfortunately, that's common for a vf22 at that boost level

will have a transistor to drive the solenoid on the output. transistors have tendency to blow when the output is shorted. if you're keen open it up, read the output transistor code, go buy a new one and solder it in

V3 - 6. To a certain degree the 7-8 are the same but from around 21psi... V9 & 10 of course not having forged internals I wouldn't run more than 18 on without supporting equipment, (uprated sensors, reflash, etc). With the later models the ECU's are somewhat self learning and have the ability to self adjust maps within reason, but they only have a limited range before things start getting hazardous. You've got to remember that Factory MAP sensors in the older cars only have a 2.3Bar absolute range, so that's 1.3Bar of artificial pressure, the other 1 bar being natural air pressure (or 0psi boost), the sensors start to read from absolute vacuum... You may or may not have troubles with turning the boost up higher than the sensors can read, but I wouldn't unless I'm trying to kill a engine! My version 4 map sensor happily reads upto 1.5 bar - and yes its original same here, works to 22psi on the link before it maxes out

grab some dust boots to put over the damper shaft, should help. ive got some on mine. if i could i'd seal up the whole damn strut to keep it clean!

Yeah my boss had it in a yard down there - Those muppets blew the engine in the end. New engine now, stronger and better than before but bodykit is the same

Yeah Chris, he did some work on mine too after I saw you had been there with yours.. If CRC helped then you might as well get some grease in there. To dismantle unscrew the nut(s) from the bottom, then (from memory) use a screw drive to turn the shaft until you have the spigot loose. Then it should all pull out the top

all the shock components are in the shiny damper shaft.. that shaft slides in a couple of bushes that sit in the strut housing. I imagine they're easily replaceable for someone who knows what they're doing that's if it is the problem... you should be able to get crc past the top seal, but better to unbolt it at the bottom and pull it out. It runs some hefty grease on the inside

Ive used prova exhaust headers, coilovers, ecu's, (and a whole car) and rate every single part very highly!

sorry i didnt read your original question properly and edited my response.. have you had them out of the car with the springs off to see what they do? what ARB are you running on the rear? If the bushes aren't mexican greasy smooth they would cause odd extension of the shock also if the bush bearing that the damper shaft slides in isnt greased up and within tolerance it could cause that too.. I doubt a shock dyno test would show this sort of thing up as you're witnessing slow tactile movements rather than brutal compression etc

if you're talking about you ohlins, one of mine is sitting on the lounge floor.. seems to behave as you describe

they do not use the same compressor.