nickch

I\'m praying that a bit more bed in period for the rotors will cure it, but from research so far, its quite unlikely! Disc brake stop squeal is a last resort. I\'m enquiring with wingers for pad shims. Should know if they are available and if they are cheap enough to get tomorrow.

I did give them a good wipe down with brake cleaner. The CL RC6 pads are renowned for being noisy, but didn\'t expect them to squeal like a truck! Sounds similar to this: [quote name='Ninja 8) said: +1 for price of rotors and who did u get them from??? They look the biz Racebrakes Was going to get replacement rotors to go on the DBA5000 alloy hats I had on before, but they sold their last set, and ETA for order was > 1 month. Settled for DBA4000 1-pc T3 at $264 + GST each.

I know i know! overdue for a wash! As for price, :-X :-X :-X

Got new rotors and pads fitted today Now my screams like a wailing banshee when it stops.. =( Need some anti squeal...

Yeah.. from the looks, NI based only.. http://2kcup.com/?p=30

Similar, probably a bit more like braaamm tutu braaamm TUTUtutututu Maybe like this? http://picosong.com/eJta/

check the hoses around the wastegate for leaks?

Ditto!

Pics of transmission crossmember bushes and transmission mount. Couldn\'t get the 14mm bolts back to torque spec (70Nm) as they felt like it was borderline shearing! Ended up lowered the torque on those for the others. [table] [tr] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [/tr] [tr] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [/tr] [tr] [td][/td] [/tr] [/table]

Already done. Rear diff bushing, outrigger bushings and subframe lock bolts done last December.

Changed transmission crossmember bushes and installed a group N transmission mount. I could get used to the whine.

No point in swapping over if you\'ve just changed it over. The Magnatec will be fine in the meantime till your next change.

Edge is definitely the way to go as hijacka said, fully synthetic vs semi. Yeah.. I capitalized on that deal. Just as my oil change was due too! It was like $55 bux down from $85..

Cleared things up a bit too! I was intending to overfill a wee bit in prep for MM14, but wasn\'t sure how much more I could go.

Clock issue is too common! Yea I know, annoying! CBF pulling to pieces to fix a clock. Not worth it haha It\'s well documented and easy with a soldering iron! [quote name='kwi_fozze said: Well docummented that the sump bolts on the transmission are done up stupidly tight... recently done mine, needed my 1m breaker bar on the end of the socket lol It facing downwards made it a 2 man job. One person to hold the socket in place, another needed to kick the end of the breaker bar! The rear diff was easier, just hung the breaker bar and used a jack to break it loose. Have them all back to proper torque as per shop manual. Hopefully it won\'t have the same problem in future!

Clock issue is too common!

Spent the weekend: * Changed motor oil + oil filter * Changed rear diff and transmission fluid (yuck.. can\'t ever get the smell out of the garage) * Changed spark plugs * Installed solid front sway bar end links Annoyances, workshops who use rattle guns torqued too high to do up drain plugs.. almost wrecked my back trying to get it off even with a 350mm breaker bar.

depends. assuming those ratings are RMS, you should be fine. Most subs these days are sensitive enough that listening to them at 400-500W continuously would be bad for your ears. Just make sure you set your gains correctly so it won\'t clip at loud peaks in a track.

Mr D-Style Read this. You obviously have not. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998265 What soopersubaru is pointing out (with regards to what is mentioned in the link) is, braking hard, even with stock brakes, would push the limits of the tyre\'s traction capabilities first. So regardless, if you can fit 1m wide disc brakes, given the same weight of car, you\'d break traction at your tyres first, even with stock brakes.

Man that explains why I can\'t get my ELM stick to work with DashCommand.

DashCommand stopped working after an ECU flash =\

EDIT: whoops.. just read that it was LEDs.. Polarity is important yes. Reverse them if they don\'t light up at first. Most automotive LED bulbs should have reverse polarity protection diodes. bulbs work on battery: 12V battery? Power draw shouldn\'t be an issue. Do you have a multimeter handy? Check what voltage at the connectors.

Most GPS trackers I know of are like that. I\'m with Blackhawk Tracking. Provides iOS app, and a web portal for you to track your car. Has the ability to disable car as well. I hear they are going to release an integrated alarm + GPS solution soon.

Outside: Wash => Chemical Guys Hi Gloss Citrus Car Shampoo Polish => Really depends on whether it needs correction. I\'m still finding the right one for me. Wax => If I\'m lazy, I use Maguairs Cleaner Wax paste. Easy to apply and easy to buff off. Soft 99 Rain Shield for winter months, and topped off with another coat of cleaner wax. Claybar => I\'m on my last dollop of clay that I got from the Mother\'s kit, but I\'m looking at alternatives for the next clay session. Interior => 303 Aerospace Protectant for dash, vinyl and plastics. For wheels, I\'m using any random wheel cleaner I can find, but will pick up Sonax Full Effect when it available in the country. At the end of the day, brands don\'t really matter that much, as long as they are reputable. I\'m just picky. It\'s the method and details that make a big difference. ie: 2 bucket wash. Drying the car properly. Proper polishing techniques.. and proper wax application.

Okay, good to know. Will probably still stick the Kartboy endlinks up front though..