BC5RA

??? If the alternator goes usually some dash lights will come on before failing totally and if you charged the battery and put it back in and it went fine why do you think it was the alternator?

It's not cooling thats the issue its airflow amount, particularly from turbo to inter cooler tank. Seeing as though you can buy a nice ricer front mount for around 500, not many people look into modifying the set-up. Few easy things to do, Buy an early WRX samco inter cooler pipe kit and cut down the turbo to cooler pipe hose to suit which will slightly increase flow, fit a larger heat exchanger (you can buy another exchanger and have the end tanks cut off and add the exchanger to you existing one) and high flow water pump. MRT used to do a kit (they don't anymore) consisting of a larger heat exchanger using the above method and high flow fuel pump, after exchanging emails with them, they said they hit a wall at about 350 crank horsepower (200kw@wheels) Those who are very keen could cut off the cast alloy pipe and create a new inlet system onto the tank.

Get a Walbro intake fuel pump part #GSS342 and follow up on that chip.

Theres some trickery involved in rebuilds regarding the "running bearings" issue. Talk to username Ichiban about that. I think they run bearings due to poor maintenance prior to arriving from Japan, change oil within 5000kms and top up if needed during this interval and use quality synthetic oil. You could also use ARP fasteners for added strength. As far as weak links go the next one would be your drivetrain. Maintain use of your stock clutch and don't launch it, some might say you should save your pingas and bolt on a 6spd prior to upping the power. Also if your rebuilding for more power you will need an ECU upgrade. Especially if your upgrading your injectors/turbocharger etc

http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=53206&highlight=removing+front+bumper Check that out

Oh yeah sorry http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=77626&highlight=idle+air+control+valve Don't understand why he would tell you to get yellow tops if the eprom is not programmed to run it. Seriously give him a call.

I would say you wouldn't need a closed deck block until your pushing boost levels of over 24psi, or 300kw@wheels Basically closed decking stops the bores moving around at the top which prematurely wears head gaskets. So if your building a motor to support big boost then start with a CD block, think of it in the same lines as uprating your fasteners and bearings for greater load. From what I've seen good reliable power for EJ subaru race cars would be around 240kw@wheels. Why would you want to upgrade? EJ207's are great engines.

Throttle position sensor is to the left of the throttle body, it should throw a code if its failed and given your symptoms it's unlikely to be the TPS. Here's a link on how to clean your idle air control valve (IAVC) it'll show you the location, when these get dirty they can give surging or throttle resistance. If you ask for model specific plugs, they should be pre-gapped to 0.8mm so best call the dude up and make sure. As far as the chip is concerned, I have heard of chips being setup for yellowtop injectors, i checked www.re-map.co.nz and they don't offer a different chip for your injectors and if you didn't inform them of the injectors then it won't be setup to cope. Basically if you run 440cc injectors on your stock ECU (chip or no chip) it'll run dull be down on power and after a short time it will foul your nice new sparkplugs and miss. My moneys on this to cure your issues. Try and get yourself a set of 380s install them and recheck your sparkplugs for fouling.

5th injector; found on above model (v2 STI RA), Japanese love them (at the time) doesn't function (don't believe anybody that tells you it does)

No such thing as STI 4 pot calipers they're just painted red. They'll bolt on but you'll need 294mm rotors.

What is the chip your running? is it tuned for yellowtops? It could be any one or a number of things, Here is a few things to follow up. Leaking BOV (for failing revs), Failing fuel pump (if its a stocker they can partially/instantly fail), AFM (Try a mates one that works), Coils (this is a big possibility specially if they are the original ones) Throttle posistion sensor, IAVC Boost leak, check all your joins for tension and check the post turbo to intercooler hose. What spark plugs did you put in? ie part number.

Take them into Lower Hutt Pitstop, ask for Jamie or Kelly and ask them if they need skimming or not. Good honest bogans.

Lots, intrestingly the Aussie Liberty AWIC tapers down at the tank restricting flow, Our JDM versions do not. Same as the WRC Legacy.

In any case ALL Generation 1 Legacy turbos had them, Imprezas don't need them cause they run big ends before they would ever break a block

Theres always going to be a few discrepancies in regards to OE fitment

It's a matter of debate, but in my opinion you don't need an open closed deck block until very high outputs. As far as 200kw at the crank is concerned factory internals (for the application) will be fine. is that what you meant? Yes that is what i meant, Thanks.

Car: 1991 Series 2 BC5 RS type RA Mods: MSE IHI VF8, Tein superstreets, Whiteline ALK/22mm Rear swaybar/HD links,Bosch HEC coils,Walbro,4pot brakes,Goodridge braided lines, 3" Exhaust (108.9db), Eprom upgrade. Things u like: Its rare and a BC5, Has motorsport pedigree and hits way above it's weight. What you dislike: People want to steal it and i can't catch them, I shouldn't really modify it.... Why you brought it: Above ALL other Subarus i've wanted this model. What your future plans are: Eventual full restoration and recondition of OE running gear.

Nice clean RS, seen this one in wellington. Don't sell it.

Your heads will bolt up to a closed deck block no problem. Your STI is a 96 so should be a version 3, put it thus way; A good strong basic engine would be a closed deck with forged rods/pistons and V3 STI heads which are considered to have the most aggressive cam profiles. All single turbo generation 1 Legacys will have closed decks from factory theres a couple of tell tale physicality's of a closed deck block, externally speaking.

As far as cranks are concerned they are all more or less the same until 99

Early BC5 RS and GT Legacys all had closed deck blocks, they varie but most JDM WRX engines were closed deck until 94 however V3 STI RA had closed deck and standard STI had open.

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1618/article.html http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1619/article.html You guys should check this article out Part 1 and 2

And what do you base this on? Cooling wise they do allright, but they simply can't flow enough air for 250kw@wheels Water-Air Interheaters are FAIL ricko.. we've gone thru this before! Actually besides the larger V7 onward coolers they do better than the rest

Being a 96 STI the pistons are a semi forged type, so theory would be that if you bought even a semi or open deck block and put forged rods and pistons using the stock crank (no need to upgrade) and bolted on your heads you would have a stronger engine than your OE one.