hijacka

Just a little but i know he is just teasing us anyway :-* with the 22B and his''bigger than standard R180 hubs''lol

I stripped a few EJ20G's the other day and found one had factory semi forged pistons(and yes i do know the difference) must of been a RA or something? they have the same shape top and protrude as the cast pistons do but short skirt smooth(no casting marks)and L1 stamped on the inside. Didn't think forges came out on the G's but there you go.

No, they need to have the ''reverse pop out address'' this is where there is a tab that pivots between the 5th and rev gear selector to stop the reverse gear popout fault. all TY754 boxes have this tab and some later ty752 boxes have it. the reason you need the later one is that the middle housing are different as on the inside there is a cutout where the popout tab seats. and the earlier ty752 boxes dont have this. If you get a to earlier ty752 box it simply won't Work/Fit and you'll end up breaking the tab thingy check for specs here http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html If you get stuck i do have a spare ty754 center diff i could sell you

I got Bg Bilstiens on my GF8 with gf8 low kingsprings,front and rear strut brace,nolthane bushes, and bridgestone tyres handles mint can swing both ways track or road. Went threw a re reg like that no probs.

Don't know about that Joker maybe your on to something there? i was just showing that EJ20G Casting marks compared to other blocks being smooth so 1 could ID a Closed deck block without having to view it with heads off or take ones word for it.

Casting Lines on block around starter motor as mentioned in other post EJ20g fully closed EJ208 EJ20k EJ20R Hope that helps someone

I suppose on the cheap factory RH rails modded each end will do the trick which is what the op wanted to know, i never looked until now lol so i learn't something new aswell, can understand your aftermarket bling rails is another justifiable add on where the cost is valid.

Umm ok this is the way i see it V5/6 rails can bolt on to a early manifold as you can see in pics everything lines up.. except that they will be upside down, so you get 2 RH be/bh V5/V6 rails and spin the injectors around and get fittings for each end alrighty?. Note the smooth alloy cap on the injectors indicate Phase2 yellows

I yep, so the phase 1 and 2 yellowtop side feed injectors can't be interchanged between the rails and you need to cut and weld something up to suite?

Not for sale sorry, ill sell you my amstaff thou he likes to chew things lol

Cheers bro, haven't really run it like that long enough to tell if there's any issues yet and try not to drive it much seeing its got no air filter, got another engine on the mend for it V6 sti heads closed deck block forgies etc so when i move on to a link G4 and twisted garret turbo ill have a slightly stronger engine

Hey here is my 98 V3 Vlimited been fixing it up over the last 2months as it was pretty much a wreck when i got it(de regd), Has had all interior stripped and cleaned thoroughly to clear the wet dog smell, replaced heater core, Installed Cosworth headgasket done the timing belt kit thing and all seals and gaskets etc,installed nolthane swaybar bushes, Advan RG rims fixed and painted by elite wheels..(thanks) with new N2 filled Bridgestones, replaced worn out suspension with Bilstiens and low king spring to suite,replaced smashed rear window, installed lights and massive front mount intercooler 100 thick. GFB hybrid bov rear strut brace and more Still early days and have alot more planned for it in the future when the pocket refill themselves but thought it might be worth a yarn now that its got fresh plates

Hey guys. aren't they phase 1 and 2 yellow top injectors? From what i read they should both be interchangeable early phase 1 =440cc phase 2=550cc. ?Yes the rails won't bolt up

Its the intercooler piping thats getting in the way behind the guard theres not much room it was hard enough jamming the 3'' pipe in there lol

Good on you, ive always had a soft spot for these vlimited its a shame there aren't many good examples any more.

True, mind you there is alot more extras im counting engine wise 1500 in parts thats genuine cambelt kit water pump all oil seals etc and cosworth headgasket and shave as it was blown when i got it

Yeah that might be the go!!

Yeah i'll keep this one, im kind glad that ive got it back on the road even thou it would of made more wrecking it. still needs work but its in progress and be worth holding on to i rekon. are you keeping yours?

Its 3'' down to the indicator and into nothing ;D im still scratching my head as to how im going to get a pod on there, there is some flex pipe stuff that has a memory its still quite new might have to use that instead of the alloy?

167/555 re-reg afew weeks ago hence the new number plate as the old owner neglected it, i didn't care thou as it had the price tag to match, needed alot of work to get this far cost is still low as done all the labour myself $$ around 5g all up ???

I smacked a front mount on the vlimted the other day when it was pissing down with rain

an image to demonstrate the sock advice That bag is a 90degree one, you will find the 45degree ones fit and are bigger and efficient enough, i thought the correct fitment for a bg5/bd5 is a GSS341 not 342.. could be wrong ??? only time i've fitted a 342 was in my old BE5 and that had to be used with a small 90degree bag and on a slight angle

Don't take your foot off the accelerator pedal"problem solved'

True lol that was the other thread 94TT haha... Good on you

Agree..Be easier to guess the fault if we could hear the idle