hijacka

No its not possible yellow is yellow. 6s ecu = V3 1s ecu = V4 Should have subaru 2 pot rear brakes and r180 rear end with plated diff and dccd gearbox ifs its limited it will have front helical lsd diff

Its double skinned isn't it? looks like someones jacked it up from there, the rust is more of a issue imo. I would attack it with a slide hammer and metal tech the holes after its got some shape back and convert the rust and so on.

Sounds like your engine is hard done by there bro. Bring it in to the kitchen Ross Sub style lmao

Well maybe for some but there are weekend only examples out there to that might get caught out/ not just cars boats or why would suffer the same. I would say its like that with all gps trackers?, perhaps a battery upgrade to go with the tracker would be a good investment in any case.

Speaking only of the cheap ebay ones they are worth having but you should note they will flatten a battery if the car is unused for a week or why depending on the battery its self.. although its got a built in battery the unit keeps sending gps signals so puts drain on the battery.

Change the wheel color orange looks awful and its bound to put buyers off perhaps black would be better, also the first thing you read is you want to sell asap to buy a Audi(remove that bit) that only tells me its a boring car to drive and i to feel like buying a audi after reading that, ditch the stereo install pictures! shine the car up and take it to some nice spots for pictures/photo shoot, having picture of the car at a gas station isn't really ideal and neither is your own drive although seeing it looks like a nice area might be an advantage. ultimately you are probably trying to attract a female drive so nice shiny pictures that say fun times will work lol.

Nah still doesn't get rid of the air pocket that accumulates at the bottom of the slave cly piston. Its the angle of it thats the issue you leave the pedal in the up position. unbolt the slave from the box turn it up so the nipple is pointing to the sky, crack the nipple at the same time put slight pressure on the slave piston rod (so it doesn't suck air in) Push on the slave till it expels all the fluid tighten nipple release pressure from rod and allow the piston to throw back out before repeating... no need to pump the clutch pedal if there is fluid in the lines already as there is a spring on the bottom of the piston to allow it to return. and Joker even though its called a return spring its not its job actually it works the opposite way.. bleeding the clutch system is a 1 person job and you must remove the slave.

Looks like normal wear for a car that is 22 years old and only had 1 major service

Sorry not really getting the ''play thing'' you are talking about? Your spigot bearing or bush which ever one you have will centre the gearbox input shaft, if you have a loose input shaft then its the input shaft bearing you should be looking at. It is the most abused bearing in the box

Clear cam covers? please share!

Put a new engine into the de reg v5 gf8 got it running icely without looking over the body properly first now i found this in the rear quarter panel and its nasty lol. Looks like i will need to re shell it, bloody hate half arse repairs!

With a twin turbo you have 2 downpipes so its going to read better in the manifold. Early single turbo leggys have them in the manifold, perhaps they found better results with them mounted in the downpipe? considering how close they are to the turbo and how well they survive imo i don't think it will last any less than one in the upstream .. i know the sensor it self can take up or downstream but don't know comparisons. Air fuel ratio sensor is a different story.. which is probably why v7 sti have them upstream you would have to mount it 1 metre from the turbo for it last and that would be after the cat so its not really a option for a new car. Thats just my own thoughts not factual at all lol

This is one of those moments where you need to have it physically checked by a decent mechanic hopefully one in your area can chime in and help you.. Perhaps start a thread in the north island section as there are plenty of good mechanics up there who are on theses boards regularly. I'll get the ball rolling anyway.. Are the swaybar links sitting right? what sort of links are they pillow ball or plastic? strut might be loose? jack te rear u and see if the strut shaft falls out might not have done the nut up properly.

Yeah shouldn't make difference upstream or downstream, just as long as it can reach the plug

They are alloy so are illegal

Its not bad to get at it just got to bend the inner panel alittle, undo it when its hot and use crc you should be able to move it with open end spanner, The heat shield is the pain! i will cut the top of the hole out so i don't have to loop the wiring from the sensor through and also you can use ring end of spanner to do up. here where you can buy from: http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/oxygen-sensor-22641-aa191 http://www.subaruspeed.co.nz/products/oxygen-sensor-22641-aa042 Make sure you get the right one/(check the part number of your oem one first to be certain..(most likely the second link one)

Eww Just build one yourself safest bet.. FWIW i wouldnt buy it.. the fact that it hasn't even been decked is a warning sign!

Dccd pro had me sold on the its mountable g sensor instead of being mounted in the unit like mapdccd. This way you mount it in the center of car so you get a true reading, also get a version that can be wired/run factory dccd display and using the v8 sti thumb wheel and auto switch. dccdpro for the win imo sorry.(even though i like both and optical offers exceptional customer service ) Keep the thumb wheel turned down in auto on for daily driving in normal conditions

bg5 brake line mounts via c clip and your bolt on to the strut so theres one obvious difference and if they aren't ride height adjustable then chances are your car won't sit right on the road.. Secondhand shocks market is a dodgy one imo,

Carl Davey is no more.FWIW you can buy his products from http://asperformance.com/ I haven't used the carl adaptors before just five0 and they work mint. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADAPTER-KIT-UPGRADE-Side-Feed-Subaru-EJ20-EJ22-Fuel-Injectors-6061-Aluminum-/370717875622?hash=item565081dda6 God dam our LOw $$

No, these injector are same fitment as subaru ph2 injectors. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-850cc-SIDE-FEED-FUEL-INJECTORS-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STi-FLOW-MATCHED-SET-/271125888834?hash=item3f205cbf42&vxp=mtr If yellows are that great capped then why you not run them? Also five0 conversion ph1/ph2 kit works well if you can't be stuffed changing mani.

Five0motorsport for match set of new jecs injectors from memory there 850cc sidefeed(p2) are about $500 landed. Sell your yellows for 150 and buy new. Think i read in other thread awhile ago Tony wasn't doing it anymore?

Not sure if this is v8 wrx issue but the be/bh legacy black dash has issues similar with fuel gauge randomly dropping problem is dry/cracked soldier joints. could try removing the v8 dash and resoldier the contacts.. if there is a break in the soldier you should be able to see it if you look hard enough

Got to be cheaper than submarine spares though lol