funkytown

there are multiple ways of doing it Logan, and yes mine do, as to tonys. Lukes go a different way. Aftermarket & HPC coated headers means that with the fire and heat repelling sleeve to go over my oil lines i can get out between the headers and block no issue turbos do super cook oil to fwiw.

keep your oil modine <- this is the proper name for the factory unit. if you keep the modine just run an oil cooler off a sandwhich plate -> no external thermostat required. if you remove the factory oil modine -> run an external oil thermostat. usually 15-19row cooler is good. and it will take a bit longer for your car to run up to temp in the mornings.

The answer is no. 3mm spacer required. Split spokes onwards clear (be/bh)

smoke on the inlet side you wouldn\'t really know about unless it was catastrophic leakage it will just burn off as part of combustion with slighter overall octane rating (oil is lower than gas). just keep it off boost and treat it gentle.

if its blue smoking itl be most likely exhaust side so less chance of coming back through intake tract. keep off boosting it and drive it carefully and it will be fine.. making some assumptions it hasnt seized and chipped bits of the turbine / compressor etc but it might just leak a little bit of oil - nothing dangerous though.

Put the electric sender in the box to match the cluster you want to use. * pending other cluster change pain lol

oh then apply the reverse logic, put your elec sender in the v3 box

even more simple - replace the elec sender out of the v4 box with the mech one of the v3 and it works with your v3 cluster. this applies to all boxes incl. 6mt onwards using in v3/2/1

factory rails / fuel lines and ALSO the fuel reg (s) will deliver well over 500hp worth if you have enough pump on it. injector dependent though *applies to side or top feed too.

can you give a quantitative measure of \'proven to work\'? and the other options to rank them accordingly please. dont get me wrong, i run a macbilt sump... but its tooootaly subjective.

perhaps you are being way to generic and adding little value to OP in this instance, comparisons you cant qualify and specifications that relate to no particular model. I also have two and they are larger and dont fit all headers.

nekk minit the belt snaps..

well your completely wrong, macbilt sump to increase capacity. nor did it fit sl8rs headers. my point is any \'comparsion\' is 10034624552 % subjective, basically as useful as \'what oil do you run\' or \'what tires are best\'

how would you expect me to measure it relative to other options chap?

like WOW.. M&H ftl. never seen that in my life before. was there something sharp dug into it anywhere?

Compression will be up the shit. As will dish shape depending on head and valve combo. Also rods and psitons from NA are very weak for turbo application But you could...

what you do is (before you start) tap your gearbox housing to accept a larger bolt and that thread then secures the starter to the gearbox

Correct u need 6 speed fork. Its bent different shape.

most are about +53 for wrx or sti stuff

yup will work just fine. they are basically identical.

they come and go in terms of supply but they are semi closed and have phase 2 crank set up so generally good for about 250wkw. more than most ppl need imo. 3000 might be wildly over what you need, or wildly under

mine averages about 6km/l (16.5l/100km) towing

yer both now. but same applied pre HPC

i run a whopper, twisted, and no heat sheild at all.. that said im not running TMIC either which is its main benefit

if you get good ones they are ok and Mucho easy to install / remove. they add 452545 wank points and get a shit one and they catch fire.. everyone wants that. not.