Koom

As I typed it I knew that it could be taken round the wrong way but I was hungry and in a hurry to go find food ;D Confusion sorted now haha.

Cleaned it after 2500kms of driving through floods, the bottom half of the South Island including a few hundred kms of backcountry roads. Rear wheel drive and 18" alloys isn\'t the best setup for driving through rocky alpine fords. Now my driveway is covered in bits of Mt Aspiring National Park and Hollyford Valley Gravel ;D

Yep. Grey\'s are 380cc. Yellow\'s are 440cc. And I\'m pretty sure the Phase II yellows are also 440cc but are called 550\'s on the internet as that is what they flow if you test them at 100% IDC. All the Yellow\'s flow ~550cc at 100% IDC. I meant physically the same as in the shape of the body, not their flowrate.

If they\'re from a V6 then they are off a Phase II motor so won\'t fit your fuel rails.

Sounds like you may have pinched the o-ring and now its leaking into the cylinder. If you\'re lucky, it could also just be the extra fuel that drains out when you remove the injector. Unbolt the fuel rail from the manifold (with all the lines, injectors still in place) and lift it up so you can see the bottom of the injectors. I slide a piece of white paper under them, then turn the key on then off a few times to pressurise the fuel lines. This way I can see if any fuel is leaking out the bottom of any of the injectors. Also, are you just trying to replace Grey\'s with Yellow\'s? Doesn\'t work. Unless you like running super rich and blowing smoke everywhere. But are you sure you\'ve got the Phase I Yellow\'s as they are physically the same as the Grey\'s.

When it\'s running in parallel, you effectively only have 2cyl feeding each turbo anyway. The cross over pipe will just be acting as a balance pipe like they have in v8\'s to equalise both sides. So should have a similar boost threshold as running the standard setup locked in parallel. When does that type of thing come on boost? (Would be effected by pipe diameters etc just like changing up pipes on a single setup)

Don\'t hold your breath! It\'s just like Pantene, it\'s not gonna happen overnight.... haha

Pedaling it rather than using an engine is gonna get tiring! I finished off my exhaust today, bolted it back on then put the car back on the ground. Now I need to drain the three year old 98 octane (would be about 42 now....) out of it and change the oil. Then it\'s ready for tuning ;D

Not sure how the nissan\'s are wired but with a Subaru it goes through both the drivers main switches and the switch on each door. The usual fix with them is to disassemble each switch and clean the contacts (watch out for springs and small ball bearings). Might be something similar with the nissan setup?

~$200 NZD for an 11mm OEM Oil Pump - Delivered

Thorpe Engineering are on the corner of Princess St and Dalgety in the Addington area. Just off Blenheim Rd. They are pretty good at getting stuff done that day. I drop all my alloy welding to them in the mornings and most of the time they\'d have it done by lunchtime if I wanted it then.

Funnily enough, the south island also has companies who can fix wheels : I\'ve been sent by a tyre shop to these guys before for similar damage. www.roycecliveengineering.co.nz They did a mint job and seem to be who a lot of local tyre shops will recommend for fixing alloys. I\'ve also used Thorpe Engineering to straighten, weld and balance a set of rims (as they are located right next door to my office) and they also did a mint job. And another place I can think of off the top of my head is Elite on Annex road who are well known as a wheel repair company in ChCh. I\'m sure the North Island also has more than one wheel repair company too but its soo much easier to deal with local\'s....

I just went back and searched through my old spreadsheet I made to analyse the difference\'s in the geometry of a bunch of engines and possible hybrid setups. Longrod EJ20 doesn\'t make 2/3rd\'s of F all difference on paper (from a normal EJ20) but I was always more interested in doing it if building another 2.0L as it just required custom length rods and the rest of the stuff was off the shelf. But then I went halfway and built a 2.1 stroker but with slightly longer rods so the geometry isn\'t far off a normal EJ20\'s rod/stroke ratio in the hope that it\'ll still be ok at higher rev\'s. Still waiting on the motivation to get it finished and on the dyno to find out if my theorising was right or not.

If you\'re thinking of fitting the whole twin turbo system you need a) to ask yourself, "do I want to do all this work to make my car worse and more unreliable?" And b) do I like throwing money away? If you want to fit the motor from a twin turbo legacy then it\'s an easy swap, using the original single turbo manifolds and turbo setup on the newer engine. Bonus points if you use a bg5b engine as it\'s the ej20r so you get much better heads that don\'t have hydraulic lifters. Yay.

It\'s the inlet ports that shouldn\'t be ultra smooth as it actually decreases the flowrate. It\'s all to do with the boundary layers created as the air flows through. But smooth surfaces on the hot side is to prevent carbon buildup which is worse for flow etc

in the \'sweet jesus\' thread it looked like they plated or otherwise mirror polished the area around the valves on the combustion side. what is all that about? Prevention of carbon buildup? So no hot spots in the future. Was that build done on an open deck block? Seems weird that they threw the whole HKS and Jun catalogue at it and didn\'t even pin the bores?

With a 75mm crank and stroker pistons, you can fit longer rods. Which is what it sounds like he was thinking of doing. Have had similar thoughts myself in the past. [quote name='lachlan said: s*** those pistons nearly resemble a mx bike piston . 8) The waisted design of the underside is very sexy! I didn\'t want to hide mine inside the block.

I don\'t know for sure, but seeing as how incestuous the rally fraternity is down here, I bet Palmside supply cages that have been pre-bent by Dave.

That\'s the name. Couldn\'t remember what his last name was. It\'s spelt McCahon btw. Dave McCahon from Racecraft Engineering. http://m.finda.co.nz/business/listing/4pnlrl/racecraft-engineering/ But I\'ve only ever used un-scalloped kits from him.

There not prepped to just weld in . That needs to be done when its being put it in the car . well that\'s if its the same guy in chch i got mine off. I don\'t think you can get ready to weld kits and if you could i wouldn\'t want one. There is to many variables to allow for. Yeah at a guess you\'d have to get a big dollar kit from an overseas outfit like Sparco or maybe Prodrive? If you wanted a full on ready to weld in kit (even then I\'m not sure if they\'d be scalloped).

Have you got any comparisons of the exhaust ports? Cause that\'s where the power is hiding on these heads. Have you checked the inlet gaskets against the ends of the manifold to make sure that the other side will end up the same as the heads?

I know of a guy down here in chch who supplies a lot of people but prob not much help if you\'re in Auckland. Could try contacting a local motorsport car club up there to see if they could point you in the right direction rather than asking around workshops?

Clubsport event? Or trackday of some sort? Got any action pics?

Idk something gay cause it\'s a honda lol Just take everything off before the throttle body and the intake noise is awesome! The plug was replaced with one off a BC. This new relay thing sounds like a job for you Koom Would never of thought to do that. Haha at my current rate of achievement, I can do it for you as long as you don\'t mind your car being off the road for 9 months......

That plug is a common issue. A better fix is to bypass or replace the plug. And the best option is to use the old power wire as the signal to a new relay and run a new, beefier power wire to the pump via the new relay.