Koom

Great advice. I've used Ultimates/Standard Rotors/Motul RBF600 for the last few years and it does the trick for trackdays on street tyres. I'll be upgrading to some much better pads once I get round to getting some semi-slicks as I feel the current combo is at its limit with my current grip levels. We used Znoelli Slotted Rotors/Project Mu HC++ Pads/Motul RBF600 for the Silverfern Rally. The pads lasted two days for each front set which seemed excessive but it was the equivalent of a full seasons worth of rallying within 8 days. We have since been given a set of Project Mu pads of a new compound to test during this rally season and have been told to only need to change them once in a season. Used them for one rally at end of last season and they still looked brand new afterwards.

On the contrary, There's many happy customers out there! RDL for instance are a happy customer ;D [quote name='WRXER said: Haha well Im not one!!! In fact I could write an essay on the amount of times I been shafted there, let alone even start to talk about the piss poor servicing standards they did on my previous wrx. But like you, I could say the same about Repco and how many people I know get great service from the guys in the Syndenham branch. So don't knock them when for a fact the dealers are just as bad. Getting your car serviced at the Dealership and just buying parts is two completely different arguements in my opinion. Even back in the day, before I had any idea what I was doing, the guys in the parts dept at Armstrongs were rather helpful in letting me pick and choose which parts I wanted from their racks and then also gave me a reasonable discount (for someone who had basically just walked in off the street). I'd trust the actual Subaru parts before any of the OE replacement stuff from Repco etc too. I've seen too many examples where the OE Replacement parts from Repco/BNT etc were of substandard quality and also later found that they were more expensive than the factory replacement parts.

From the data I've got, it shows the *VN1AA box as being fitted to the "UK/Europe Impreza Turbo 2000 / GT MY99" but has no details on ratios. The *VBAAA box is shown as from the "JDM Impreza WRX & WRX STi Ver.V/VI MY99-00" and has a final drive ratio of 4.444 A good indicator that your rear diff matches your gearbox is that it drives normally and hasn't shat the centre diff.

They're aftermarket Sard ones that WRXER is talking about You'll need side feeds to suit early EJ20's.

Prodrive used to use this setup on the Group A cars. There's also alot of people around running two factory regs without issues. If one of the regulators was relieving at a lower pressure than the other, then that would be the pressure throughout both fuel rails (to a certain degree, I'm not gonna get entirely into the fluid dynamics here) and the second regulator just wouldn't relieve. If you fitted a fuelpump that could supply a big enough flow rate that one regulator couldn't cope, then you could possibly create a situation where one rail "could" be at a significantly lower pressure than the other but the chances of doing that through factory fuel lines is rather slim.

Easy way to get the injectors out is firstly take the cap off the top i.e. two 8mm hex head screws, then rotate the injector in the rail. This breaks the seal that has formed after years of being bolted in place and then they are pretty easy to pull out from there.

Actually the new Impreza hatch (i.e. MY08) had a longer wheelbase than the previous model. And I wouldn't say that the +2000 models are bloated. That would imply that they are carrying extra, unnecessary weight yet they seem to perform better and better every year.....

that would not have been a pretty sight.. ;D I shaved my legs specially for that day haha. Luckily there wasn't enough room in the hotpants for me to wear them....... I did make that tiny wee lycra top look damn sexy though

I emailed that to someone once.....funny how far they get around. Also more confirmed info for people with 4-plug ECU's. Someone mentioned on here somewhere that 3 of the plugs from the 4-plug ECU's are the same as the 3 plugs from a 3-plug ECU. I checked this out today and the plugs fit perfectly so that means if you have a 4-plug TT, then to convert to single turbo, use a 3-plug STI ECU and yellows + AFM to suit etc and you'll get great results. I always thought that you'd have to find the plugs from a 3-plug ecu to do this conversion but its just become alot easier

The NZ V8's are just taxi's with stickers But the Aussie ones are pretty well developed racing cars. Awesome to watch! I'll be there working on one of the TRS cars hopefully. Need to make sure we find a grid girl for our car this time rather than being grid girl myself like at the A1

Its the striaght cut gears that are noisy. A helical gear dogbox sounds like a normal gearbox.

How far past the full mark. Just a few mm higher doesn't really matter. Thats usually where mine is filled to and I often use between 4.75L and 5L when filling up.

If its not out yet there's only one solution left. Battery powered 18v Makita ANGLE GRINDER. The master key to any lock

To run an ECU thats designed for an Impreza, you need to re-wire your ECU plugs. Yours should have 3 plugs but it is wired differently to the STI 3-plug wiring so a few things need to be swapped around. You could also get hold of some plugs from an early WRX or Legacy and rewire it for 4 plugs. If the Link that you're looking at is a wire-in type, with an adapter to suit a normal loom, just forget the adapter and wire it directly into the loom. Much easier than swapping plugs round.

Haven't done it myself so don't know if there's any little issues that'll pop up to catch you out. PM Kameniko, I know he's done a swap of V2 to V3 STI stuff which is prob more involved than what you're doing but he should know how to get it all running off the V3 ECU.

+1 i find it very good oil!! +2 Ive found http://www.partsquipdirect.com/ a great place to buy it from One of our members down here in Wellington works for Armstrong - Im not sure how much of a discount he can do, but I know it costs me less than $70 including filter for my BC5 or BG5. +3 Except in a hungover state I grabbed Competition SM 15w/50 which seems ok and has about 10psi higher hot idle. I'd prefer to be using 10w/40 though. Seems rattlier on cold startup but thats prob due to placebo effect and me being paranoid after loosing a pile of oil a few weeks ago. Its normally only about $55 for 5 litres.

You can upgrade to the STI stuff but you need it all. i.e. injectors, ECU, AFM plus prob a few other small bits and pieces probably.

The first link is all good, get Dave from DTech to tune it too He knows what he's talking about. The second one is an older one and the adapter is for the older Legacy/V1/V2 WRX's.

http://www.linkecu.com/products or one of their agents around the country could prob do online sales. places like www.nzperformance.co.nz sell Microtech's (I think) and can purchase online. Search around for Vipec, Autronic, Microtech, Link, Motec etc online and most can be purchased online. There's often second hand units for sale on Tardme aswell.

You either have a dog-engagement which means you can pluck that gear without a clutch and at any rev. Or else you have syncro engagement, which means you need to use the clutch. Unless you're a rough *&#t (or really skilled). You can get helical or straight cut gears with dog-engagement. Straight cut puts less stress on the gearbox casing as there's no thrust loading through the input/output shafts but helical gears are stronger (if the same width) as there is better tooth engagement. Straight cut is also rather noisy and not very nice to have to put up with on a daily (or even weekly) basis. Yes they are dog boxes and straight cut gears are legal. Just expensive and a pain in the ass. Unless you're really worried about the extra weight, a six-speed is stronger and is nice and quiet to drive. You can get dog engagement straight cut gearsets for the six speed boxes which are even stronger again.

Its cause Accountants design cars. The Engineers are just there the make the Accountants ideas a reality.

uumm ok... Motec M800 I dunno aye. Still depends on alot of things. The Link range is generally good value for money and made here so have good support. 4g will get spent real quick. Especially if drag racing is your thing. If its gonna be a quick road car, there's lots of different ways to go about it. You don't need all the power in the world to be fast. If you can't drive round corners then you will need lots of power, and brakes to match (and again tyres to do anything with big brakes). You can spend 4g pretty quick on handling mods that'll change the car completely and make it feel like a big go-kart. But you'll also need really good tyres to make the most of that. Spend 4g on tyres If you're rebuilding, you could buy an EJ207 from a dealer pretty cheap, or an EJ257 if you then want to put a bigger turbo on and an ecu (plus everything else that will come up) but your 4g engine budget will be long gone when going down the bigger motor path. Can also make the 4g go a hell of alot further if you do most of the work yourself but that depends on how confident you are with that side of things. Just buy some tyres, strip everything out of it, and then see who you can beat p.s. everyone has different things they want to get from their cars and that really is what your modifications should be based on. What you want. Hey, if you want an external and rwd, then do it, cause if its what you want, then you'll love it.

Had some issues with the RPM clutches before. One of them popped the rivets out of the centre plates and it spat a couple of the springs out of the sprung centre (sorry bad description but you may be able to figure out what I mean).

I've got something like this; http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-stereos/CD-players/Pioneer/auction-206282056.htm Dunno if its this exact model that I've got cause I can't be arsed walking out to the car to check but its one of the ones around that range. Awesome headunit! The sound is mint. I used to have one of the Sony Black panel headunits and the sound from the Pioneer blows it away. I don't bother with subs anymore and get enough bass to keep me happy from just 6.5" components front and rear. Couldn't believe how much gooderer the Pioneer was than the old Sony that cost me at least 3x as much. iPod plugs straight in. Has all the same music functions controlled straight from the headunit and charges the iPod too. Only time I ever pull the iPod out of the car is to update the music. Also ran the iPod to USB cable behind the interior stuff so it stays hidden in the centre console.

More info would help. i.e. how much are you willing to spend? How much power are you realistically after? Is it to just inhance the performance a bit or aiming for a track racer, drag racer, clubsport racer???? V3 STI are yellow 440cc injectors. Best bang for buck: buy some really good tyres.