Ryan

For sure, good on ya. The first engine I built was a EJ and now it seems all other engine designs are back the front haha. If you see those photos you'll have a bit of a idea what your in for

For sure, always use a micrometer to check journals but just saying the more ways you use to check it the more reliable the end result. Getting a shop to short block it would take alot of the risk out of things, always a good idea haha.

Plasti-guage is a good idea for checking bearing clearances to be 200% sure, its a tiny length of wax/plastic the you place on the crank and bearings then do a mock assembly then pull apart. Check the squash size of the plastic and compare to chart and it shows your clearance. I can't stress enough how important having the correct clearances are (and yes I've learned the hard way haha). Also make sure your compression ratio is correct, incase the heads or block have been machined in the past and you need pistons to suit etc. If your just reassembling a engine you've stripped done and done bugger all to you should be sweet but if you want to do it proper then there's a few things you need to do along the way. I've got some photos I took during one of my builds if you want a bit of a insight Edit: here's the photos http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=43028&id=100000025571994&l=d7cd1b733e

My old v2 STi had Walbro 500HP and did the same thing but only AFTER I put in a aftermarket fuel regulator. Won't have anything to do with your AFM. Glad to hear you got it sorted, hopefully you make it to Auckland haha.

Yes but what if its sending the wrong values. [quote name='S T E Y E said: wen i start it up after ecu reset it runs mint and sounds mint then bout 5 seconds later it runs like s*** again...idle goes all off-beat and wen u open throttle it dies hard and struggles to rev... This often also happens when you have a boost leak or if AFM isn't plugged in, so if you're sure you don't have a boost leak, I'd be counting on it being AFM.

+1, you need a working AFM to test it to be sure. There's a thread around here some where on how to repair the circuit board on AFMs I think, if you get desperate and want to open it up (without causing further damage!). Edit: here it is http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,2762.msg31579.html

Or boost leak maybe? FMIC piping got a hole in it (e.g. if it runs past the positive terminal on your battery) or loose hose clamp etc? Bugger you've got the rare/expensive AFM!

Ok let me know.

Wellsford, an hour north of Auckland. You?

Theres one of trademe for $180 so how about that?

Before we go further can anyone here just confirm that it will bolt up to my version 8 STi?

How much you after bro?

Can you get factory towbar setups that bolt onto WRX STi 2003 sedans?

This'll be fine, I've done the same on my intake manifold both on my RS Legacy and on my old STi. Just make sure the surfaces are nicely machined, no big dents etc.

Simms Diesel and Turbo may be worth a try, there's another outfit in Auckland that sells kit but can't remember the name at the mo

Have you cleaned your IAC?

Yep looks like pan must come off, check this: http://forums.nicoclub.com/remove-oil-pump-t222085.html

Hope your getting a box or two in return! Same here, usually a heavy diesel mechanic, must admit Cummins and Cats are a shitload more simple due to size =p

Loosen engine mounts and lift/jack engine up a bit?

Mmm damn see what u mean. Guess you can't even loosen the sump as you have to put gasket sealer back on it, bit of a pain? If you can drop the sump even just a little bit to clear it

You should be able to, there's 4 x bolts holding sump to the oil pump and 8 x bolts holidng the pump to the block, remove everything off the front and you should be good to go (been awhile since I worked on a RB). Here's a photo of a RB pump to give you an idea:

Ratshit bro..on the brightside, you still have your car =)

I miss having 6x9's in the parcel tray like I had in my GC8, but now with my version 8 STi theres no pre-cut holes, although I noticed theres holes cut into the metal base of the parcel tray. So my question is, has anyone here successfully cut holes in the parcel tray and installed 6x9s using spacers? I'd hate to cut up the cardboard peice of my tray then find out it won't work lol. The 6.5" and 4" in the doors just don't cut it for me.

Right, well I'm in the process of setting up my BC5 with a front mount (originally off a 1994 RA). Everything lines up good, except I'm having a bit of trouble as the piping to the inlets on the intercooler are bang in the way of the bumper iron. How have people got around this in the past? A mate of mine reckons I can get rid of the bumper iron, but how do you get the bumper to stay there?

Cheers, got mine all wired up, only difference was my wire was green with black stripe instead of red with white stripe (on the auto inhibitor connector). End result: