Simon C

You could by a Litchfield Type 20 STi in the UK, have a car that goes just as fast and save lots of dosh. Or, if you want a GDB, get a Litchfield Type 25, will annihilate the Cosworth STi.

My old Trust one was bigger than factory, but tapered internally to speed up gas flow.

Some of the aftermarket uppipes have a proprietary flange to mate up to a matched set of headers. I think the Tomei Expreme uppipes are an example of this. It won't be a twin scroll uppipe, that'd be pretty obvious because it'll be double-barrelled.

Can't speak for anyone else, but everything you've just said is completely wrong when applied to me. Except that yes, my modified Spec C is capable of far more than my driving skills can deliver. That's now why I modified it, I did it because I want a car that drives exactly how I want it to drive. You don't have to be chasing lap times, power or bragging rights to want to modify a car, there are many other perfectly legit reasons.

If you're flat broke after spending $500 on your car, then I argue that you can't afford your Spec C, let alone mod it properly. Good luck finding a twin scroll aftermarket turbocharger on a budget, let alone the supporting airflow + fuel mods and tune. It seems that not only do you have a warped sense of what makes a car lap a track faster, you also seem to have no concept of money. Like when you tried to get someone with CE28N Volks to swap + GIVE YOU cash for your OZ rims. Seriously, stop dreaming or smoking whatever it is you're on.

Someone take this guy's Spec C away and give him a Singapore Spec car please.

Pricey doesn't necessarily mean good. Good in my mind = light + strong.

Turbo shouldn't need to come out? But yeah, you can't get all the nuts off the top end of the uppipe without the downpipe coming off.

Replaced the horrible worn out exhaust hangers on my car which make my aftermarket exhaust slap against my rear diff. Now I have nice stiff Group N ones.

Just did mine. Got quoted similar, thought it was a major ripoff. Did it myself with an hour's labour + $240 for the part shipped straight from the USA (Denso, who is the OEM manufacturer). The OEM part number is 22641AA042 I think. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1378773,parttype,5132

$2k spent on a link would not get you the same power as $1k spent on a reflash + $1k in other mods.

Got WOF'd today, had to explain to the WOF guy why I don't have airbags, and showed him the letter from Subaru saying so. Also found out that my next door neighbour has welding equipment in his garage. So he welded me up the seat rails for my new bucket seat! Only problem is that he welded one of the fittings on backwards (found out the seat won't bolt in!), so we'll have to take it apart again and reweld it!

Replaced the front air-fuel O2 sensor. It is not my friend.

I bought my GReddy TD05 18g used (but freshly rebuilt by GReddy) for $900USD shipped. The other turbo that I really liked the look of was the Tomei ARMS M7760, but good luck finding one of those used for less than $1000USD + shipping. I have 250kw on my setup, which is a V7 Spec C engine on 120,000km standard internals. There's been a lot of debate about the new hypereutectic alloy V8+ pistons vs the V7 forged ones. General consensus is that you need to be pushing serious power to melt the alloy V8 ones, around 500bhp at the crank. Can't comment about the pistons in the earlier motors, but I would have expected technology to have moved on.

Good luck finding an APS SR40, as APS are out of business. I heard they were nice turbos, but not worth the extra moolah over a good TD05 18g/20g.

Not much benefit in a silicon turbo inlet on a mostly stock engine. At higher power levels, the increased width removes some intake restriction. Although to be honest, I think it's not that great - you need to bend the things like crazy around the intake manifold. Yeah, you gotta be a little careful with the cheap ones, as they'll collapse inwards at high boost. Cheap and easy way to stop this is to get some big hose clamps and place them around the diameter of the tube at regular intervals. Or you could buy a decent one. I have an AVO Turboworld one which cost an arm and a leg, but it's really stiff and goes all the way to the airbox. The other advantage of the silicon ones is that you can fit them without removing the intake manifold, which you need to do on the APS (who are now out of business) and other metal ones. They're still a bitch to fit though.

Boostin, I asked for a front oxygen sensor. Since the front air-fuel ratio sensor IS an oxygen sensor, I expected them to know the difference, or to at least give my wife a chance to phone me and clarify before selling her the part (I was working all day Saturday and couldn't get to Winger in person). Especially since I could have quoted the CEL code to them.

Bang for buck, I'd do the following: 1) Turbo back exhaust (2.5 inch should be plenty) 2) Intercept electronic boost controller (so you can spool faster and stop your boost tapering) 3) Walbro fuel pump 4) ECUTEK dyno retune You should be able to come in at around $2-2.5k if you are patient and take advantage of TradeMe. I don't recommend a pod filter based intake unless you're fond of a lot of induction noise and BOV sounds (even if it's the OEM plumbed back). Apparently it doesn't add a huge amount of spool or power, and on some cars they can increase power by running turbulent airflow past the MAF filter --> lean condition. Of course, this can be tuned out with the ECUTEK. I'm the next step up from Scoobydoo, as I also have heatwrapped 4-2-1 equal length headers, a full in-guard cold air intake, silicon turbo intake pipe, decapped injectors (flowing ~900cc) and a TD05 18g turbo. I get 250kw on Gary Capper's rolling road dyno, which seems to read conservatively. Obviously, the headers and turbo are big ticket items which represent a major step up. Bang-for-buck tends to suffer when you reach this point. I've kept the TMIC for stealth reasons, although I compensate by having a 12L intercooler water spray tank in my boot. Have you considered spending your money instead on some better suspension and tires? I find one of the highlights of my car isn't the power, but the way it goes around corners and the detailed chassis feedback I get. Even installing a used Bride seat on low rails made driving a lot more fun, I could feel the car a lot better.

Sent my wife to Wingers to get a new front oxygen sensor (car is throwing a CEL). They sold her the wrong part! So took it back for a refund, just as well as Wingers want $599+GST for a new one! Have ordered one from the US for $235 incl. shipping.

You're always going to be hamstrung on a normal GDA WRX vs V7 STi because of the TD04 vs VF30, amongst a lot of other things. The V7 STi is much better value for money, as you'll get the complete 6 speed STi drivetrain and differentials, Brembos, lots and lots. Going fast is not just about balls-out power on a dyno.

At 27psi, aren't you kind of falling off the top of your compressor map?

+1 for compressor maps. Garrett are good in that there is a huge library of compressor maps on their site. I would have thought that a GT3071 would be a good turbo for you.

You'll need a twin scroll uppipe and a twin scroll turbo to use that header. Pity, the OEM Subaru twin scroll header is a very nice piece, comes with heat shields and everything.

You'll also need fuel pump and injectors. So definately can't be done without ECU.

Looks like they were learning how to swim, but without the water.