D-Style

If going in a Race car, more so anything with alot of bumps and dust. Go Mech. (or gauges with electronic senders) Gauges like Defi dont handle the bumps as well. (for road or nice smooth track they great) Recommend Autometer Pro-comp liquid filled gauges.

Fuel press is around 40psi and under boost a little higher. Oil press is about 60psi and can get to over 100psi. Add high temps that oil get to, normal EFI hose will just pop off (or apart) and you lose turbo plus maybe engine all for being cheap on the oil feed line. Its always the cheapest part which cause the most damage.

Yes high pressure hose is needed. Normal Rubber wont work. 1/4"- 3/8" line should do the trick depending on lenght.

I ran a Zeroports intake kit on my BE5. This included the stainless mesh Pod. After a few weeks driving I took the intake pipe off for some reason and notice how much dust and crap was lined on the pipe. While the induction noise was cool for about 5 mins, ended up putting the factory box back on and used a Fram paper air filter. I would have gotten about 5x filters for the price on a single K&N. Dyno proven that only an extra 2kw from using a mess filter. *I dont even use K&N on my current 4x4 as any oiled type just clogs up very quickly driving on the road where I live. Standard toyota paper filter with a "outterwear" cover

Due to Subaru's "hot wire" type AFM, the K&N or any other oiled filter causes trouble as the oil end up on the element and the AFM after time burns out. While MAF do let you get away with oiled filters, you still can get oil contamination. Apexi filters were the go a while back. Nothing wrong with OEM air box, CAI and paper filter, zeropsorts intake pipe and a Samco inlet hose kit.

If you want to use avgas, why not just buy race gas from the likes of Elf or Total etc etc. Or Switch to Dual fuel setup. Pump gas for normal driving and use Avgas in a "5th injector" setup to add more fuel when boosting. On E85, who has trouble with starting a cold engine with it? A couple of people i know running it in race cars have alot of trouble starting when engine is cold. One starts in on Avgas (Race engine) once warm he switches to E85. Another uses heaters in the engine block to pre-warm engine before starting. One of these is in Aussie with very warm temps, so South Island in Winter would be fun to start on E85.

Go Titanium. Even the brands like tomei, HKS, zerosports dont use the right S/S for the temps that the headers get up to

less yoltage = more current.... more voltage = less current SHould you just get the correct size cable instead? Yes big cables help, but doesnt mean I should install a 500mm2 flex because "big is better". FLC of a starter motor would only be present for a few seconds under normal starting duty. Hardly a workout for say a 25-35mm2 cable. If your a ICE boom head, then yes larger current present for longer time you should look at maybe 50mm2. With regards to -ve. To the chassis. Shortest cable run always. The ECU normaly use a Reference (internally) of -ve and +ve to compensate for any fluctuations.

I would only use cable glands on a vehicle. Bushes still let the cable move.

I know for a fact that Toyota Aus is bringing in 2 models of FT 86.

This a JDM one or nz new?

Morell motors in taupo. Mark is known in Honda circles (had a few nzpc covers with his Hondas) has always ask high prices for cars hes selling.

Unless its got some very big ticket items (Penske wrc shock, cosworth short block etc etc) 28 k seems way beyond its worth. Just compare it to the likes of BTs car Edit: email mark morell, that explains it

Even with welding cable, if you going to run it under car, put it in some split conduit for added protection and secure it well. (experience from working on trucks many years ago) Run the cable from -ve terminal to chassis, and use the same size cable and put a link from starter motor bolt to chassis in engine bay. +ve run direct to starter motor solenoid. If factory fuse box is still in engine bay, run abit of 10-16mm2 cable from starter motor +ve terminal to main fuse to get your power for rest of vehicle. you M U S T put some form of isolation device, close to the battery. You can buy truck isolators that are 2pole (which means they disconnect both +ve and -ve(earth) or motorsport type ones with remote operating.

Has anyone used the Bendix Road/Race series of pads? They sell them here in aussie and seem to be next stage up from ultimates but not full on race pads

You dont see many of those in NZ

or the speedway driver taking a special modded Corvette out for a "test drive" in the 'naki a while ago. (one died)

Money doesnt buy you driving skills.....

I had a walk past one of these when I had a look at the new STi. Very soccer Mum car. Would suit those inner city 4x4 tracks

the STi website in Japan have some info, if you can get around the engrish translations. Japanparts.com have some good info, but you can really take measurements off a website as scripture as every car will be +/- what is stated. Fortyone.co.nz for all your JDM goodies

The controller should have a power harness, a 3pin plug cable for your gauge and a plug for the boost sensor. Did it come with car or have you brought S/H and trying to install?

If you must, Get some good branded springs, a slighty bigger rear sway bar(adjustable is waaaay overkill for street car) and replace your rubber bushes with nolathane or the likes. A rebuild of shocks (dont worry about re-valving) if the $$ to do so. Other than that, What Funky said. While the Legacy has a better designed rear end, it never be a "STi" handling wise.

Go ebay!!!!!!!!!!!! On 2 different auctions, I got 15 sheets of Japan-Go-fast-shiny-brands stickers and a few Red-bull/monster/rockstar racing sticker sets for about $20 to my door from Hong Kong. Took about 5 days to reach me. EG: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-sheets-Rockstar-Fox-Monster-Energy-Sticker-decal-car-racing-unit-motorbike-ATV-/270919832077?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1414920d

You could put it on Trademe and say its a "special Mod" to make it boost hard bro.

Info 101: The 2 door Prados have higher tow rating than the 4 door ones. Depends on how much your towing, and how slow or fast you wana go up hills. any 3.0 turbo diesel will tow a basic race car setup. Trailer power brake kit will also help alot. A 70 series Landcruiser with either 6cyl turbo or V8 turbo diesel manaul or auto would be my pick.