kris_pran

The 27 boost is incorporated into a different map where its been leaned out a touch and added a bit more timing compared to my daily map. Only ever used it when i hit the 1/4 otherwise ive always been on the daily map. As far as noticing the difference, **** yea thing moves on 27psi. Negative on graphs never been on dynapack. I cant comment on other turbo setups but what ive noticed is builds with .68/.86 exh housings are limited when it comes to boost, something along the lines of choking the exh flow. What i do know about blouch xtr range, they are mostly rated good for 28psi.

Mine has three options 20 daily low 24 daily high 27 for big **** off competition.

Nah theres a bit of a story with it. Mesh from up pipe went thru turbine and ****ed the exh wheel sent out to murchy for rebuild turbo comes back makes 330kw on 17psi starts leaking oil from seals (murch ftw) He ran at nats with me as well, his best was 11.97 i think. That thing needs more boost, im talking 28psi he'll blow past me then and it sounds lethal with cams he has.

01 V7 STI GT30r

I probably shouldn't have said they are garbage, that was a bit too harsh. Everything has there place, from personal experience and what ive seen through iwsti,nasioc and other forums builds in order of most realistic dynos. Mustang Dynojet VD Dynapack There are ways you can make the vd work, i always use the mustang dyno option which has the lowest correction factor and smooth it out to 3. Always do a run on a flat highway to get the most accurate/non bs reading, lucky for me theres one just after the normandale bridge in lower hutt. I dont put too much faith in dynos anyway, my tiny 4 cylinder keeps up with 400kw gtrs down the 1/4 haha and thats good enough for me.

11.90 on garbage street tyres, hopefully it should get better with a bit more seat time.

My 300kw virtual dyno'd car beat minhaaj's dynapack 330kw car/ real world conditions. If anything the dynapack's are garbage and im pretty sure anyone with half a brain knows by now they put out the most inflated numbers compared to a mustang, dyno dynamics or dynojet. I for one would never strap mine up to a dynapack for arguments sake either. Not taking a shot at boon or anyone but please know what your spitting out. There has been comparison's on vd vs real dyno's they are within 5-10% give or take.

I have a short shift stick from a v7 sti if your still looking for one? Also have the shifter bushings.

I cant give a valid opinion because i mixed mine with some lightweight shockproof. Which i think is the best combo EVER for the 6mt!!

Is Motul Gear300 75w 90 gl5 fine for the rear diff and trans on a v7 sti? Had Penrite pro gear in the trans before so trying something different.

I only mentioned id1000cc because op intends to upgrade his turbo so stockers wont last over 240kw - 90%idc and maybe because half of nasioc swears by id injectors. No way a stock grb does 225kw on a dynapack more like 180atw. I havent had any personal dealings with murch but he must be doing something right if half of nz are sending their turbos to him for upgrades/repairs. If his upgrades cost well below 1k for a 20% gain over stock unit then its somewhat worth it? Otherwise theres a huge range available at states, depends how deep your pockets are

+1 on murch upgrade on stock turbo. Other then that 3'' exhaust front mount intercooler better quality turbo inlet equal length headers cold air intake walbro ID1000cc - If you can afford a 2010 STI then you can afford quality injectors. Decaps mess up the spray pattern, would not recommend. I think that should be it, good enough for 250-260kw. Whats your budget, goals etc?

If you want i can hook up my laptop and pull your codes for you, free of charge! Only twist is you gotta bring the car to me.

Killer B holy headers are the best single scroll headers on the market, dyno tests have confirmed 20+whp gains. Sinco quoted me 1500 for headers and ewg up pipe.

The difference in dyno readings might just come down to the a) Type of dyno they use whether it be the dynapack vs rolling road dyno, my personal take is dynapacks read higher numbers compared to the rolling road dyno because they are measured at the hubs not at the wheels and also they dont put enough load on the car match the real world conditions. b) what correction factor they use - comes down to stp vs din vs sae. Majority of the tuners in nz with dynapacks use sae. Much debate as to which one should be used. STM, Sochi use din and most people seem to agree with this because it gives the lowest reading but you could make the argument that stm isnt the benchmark for comparsion. c)how what gear they usually make the run on - On the dynopack its important to make runs on the gear thats closest to the 1:1 ratio. On 6 speed subarus i know its the 5th and 6 spd evos 4th. Like wise the 5spd its on the 4th gear for earlier stis. d) tcf - must be left at 1. Anything more inflates the end result Kingcole - I could just go as far as saying nobody out there rivals Blouch when it comes to stock location turbos on subarus. Their units are value for money, period. I make 22psi by 3600rpm due to the billet wheel and ball bearing goodness!! It may be just a touch laggy but when it comes on you better hold on hahaha. I got one of my mates to record what my car sounds like from 2nd gear unfortunately he recorded with his ****ty iphone. *not promoting street racing* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0_ERGT0LUA&list=UUE6iYDxwf2xIJ949Zp7qvMQ

Correct, stock location 3 inch inlet and no headwork. Some fellas on rexnet are making the same numbers as i am with the same turbo so im glad the numbers are normal not overly high.

Phil at dynotech is a pretty busy guy bud so if he doesnt get back to you, it might be because his tied up at work. Would be best to give him a call during the day if he doesnt respond.

Its reading a tad more then 300kw on vd, ive learnt to take vd results with a pinch of salt. Tuner was impressed but wasn't surprised with the results it made on airboy dyno. Not out of the norm though, blouch units are kick ass. It does however eat alot high powered 280+kw evo's but thats another story id rather not discuss on the forums. The real test is when i take it out to masterton track for the 4/6cyl drag event. GCP fudges dyno numbers to impress customers. *you heard it here first*

This! Fuel pressure isnt monitored by the ecu, if your gonna up the pressure the fueling tables needs to adjusted. It seems like every freaking tuner in nz with a shop is out their make their cut on link ecu's. I cringe everytime someone recommends a link ecu for a fairly modern car. You know when they say your ecu cant be done? Its a subtle way of saying they have no experience with the subaru stock ecu tuning and if they take your car on they'll basically have no idea what the **** they're doing. Ive been e-tuned by IAG, they arent nz based. I suggest you look at Dynotech Industries, Phil knows what the **** his doing. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dynotech-Industries/509938849041709

Lol being rude and obnoxious is what this forum is known for EWG Faq http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-liter-litre-factory-motor/102111-ewg-faq-external-wastegate.html Something Clark Turner (Big in the subaru tuning world) has to say about ewg. His advice >>>>> anybody on this forum. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9197121&postcount=1 Ive heard of these flutter's but mostly on usdm cars, some say its normal however i was reading on one of the threads at nasioc or iwsti that there is a cure for it.

Oh my godddd. I didn't say it was average, the fabricator did. The reason? Go through my previous posts. Why i want to upgrade it to a better quality one? Because i use price as an indication of a product's quality, high price = better quality ala prestige pricing. I know this might not always be the case but the ETS core is what ill be upgrading too, why? because i can.

Not sure what ''claim'' have i exactly made apart from boldly stating that the intercooler ''seems'' to be working. The i/c i have works in my setup and if you think otherwise then thats your problem, im not going out of my way to provide evidence to backup my judgement because i simply cannot be ****ed. If i had been running into temp issues then im pretty sure my tuner would've pointed that out. I don't think this unit i currently have is going to be sufficient if i push for more power hence why i also mentioned ill be upgrading it to a better quality one like the ets core.

If you think it doesn't work as good as the manufacturer claims then why dont you conduct some testing on it and let us know because it sure seems like you have the time on your hands to do these things. I highly doubt someone else on the forum who has a full time job and doing university study is going to waste there time doing these ''tests'' on something <<< then $450-500 to prove a point.

Fabricator said it was average due to fin design and arrangement, tuner had nothing to say about it. Ive had experience with both tube & fin style and bar plate, the tf style is supposedly better at cooling.

Is it just me or are you trying hard to imitate funkytown's shyt **** attitude. There no way i can measure the pressure drop because i dont have an iat pre-i/c. The fact that my setup is performing quite well given the turbo's limits has lead me to the conclusion that the cheap core does indeed do its job.