kris_pran

Oh my goodness. OP i been through this whole scenario, it works out cheaper to go the twisted route + fmic. You'll limit yourself with a tmic btw, yes even with the process west. Anywho the 3xtr despite being twin scroll is going to be laggy asf, im talking gt35r lag! Look into the gtpumps range, aussies making some good power on them + the exchange rate will be in your favour.

Have a kit-kat bud.

Fail-safes can be setup on stock ecu as well utilizing the carberry rom..... Why anyone would throw away 2k+ on a link is beyond me.

I cant speak for the other models but the BE5 i had oh god, never again.

Box - Gear 300 + Lightweight Shockproof Diff - Motul 90PA Motor - Edge 5-40 is what i use on my sti.

Thought id take the old girl out after a month of collecting dust in the garage haha, photo was taken at Hardpark Wellington.

Unplugged MAF, ran worse-ish, Logger registers correct voltage readings for MAF and ait works. Checked loom for visible signs of oil - negative. What a nightmare haha took it for a small drive on my street, sounded like 3 cylinder exhaust tone. Might be time for compression test?

correct me if im wrong but wouldnt a sensor failure throw a cel? Can someone tell me how to get in touch with Rick Wheeler? pm me

berry revision 3.8.5 is a maf/sd blend, get to keep both. Idle afr previously was always at 14.7-15.0

Yes still running sd afm/iat blend and stock o2 still in exhaust.

The golden run of not having any issues has come to an end for my v7. There i was happy cruising along in a 50 zone when suddenly the car began hesitating, didn't want to rev at all, afr's dropped to 12.5/12.7 usually at 14.7/15.0.. Thank god i was just around the corner from my place so i managed to limp it home. Things ive done: 1. Can hear fuel pump priming prior to start up 2. Changed iridium plugs back to stock ones i had on previously 3. Tested coil packs, disconnected one by one and observed idle. Two of the coil packs i felt that weren't changing the idle at all were replaced and the end result ive noticed a slighty improved idle but still the hesitation to rev remains. afr sits at 15.7 at idle before was off the charts 19/20 4. No leaks coming from any of the injectors (id1k) 5. Zero air leaks. Seriously! ok maybe a very minor one from up-pipe to manifold joint. 6. No cels Its def idling on 4 cylinders, before it felt like 3 prior to me doing 3rd point above. Suggestions/opinions please

Im guessing these cheaper rotors would be available at bnt, repco? Motul rbf600 already on list.

I have standard brembos. Reason for replacement i don't think they will hold up at the track, after a some spirited driving they fade rather quickly and ugh the shudder is even worse. Keep in mind ill be running upwards of 280kw Ive read numerous reviews on the hawk+ which lead me to make them an option, the other one on the list was ferodo ds2500. DS3000 i feel would be overkill for my setup. Any other suggestions?

Hey guys After doing a few drag events last year im hooked onto motorsport, im looking to participate in roughly 4-5 track days this year and the pads/rotors i've decided on are DBA4000 Hawk HPS Plus Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake lines Unless someone else can persuade me to go into another direction, feel free to comment below on your thoughts.

Select few but who am i to judge, i might have tinted glasses as well

No ones asking op to choose any e tuner in the pond, obviously research will need to be put in to read reviews, tuning style aggressive/safe etc to prevent an ill informed decision. Internet tuning process step 1 tuner sends file step 2 upload map step 3 log step 4 blow up Uhh help unknown tuner from out of space! My car blew up running your map what do i do now? e-tuner: Not my fault, diagnose root of said blown engine and get back to me. Lets turn that situation around Op takes car down to ''local reputable tuning shop'', blows up on dyno. Local tuner: Ring ring... uhh hello op your car blow up..please take away...i has other car to tune. Op: But but you blew my motor! Tuner: No op, you signed the indemnity form releasing me from any liability incase anything drastic happens while tuning. if you want my ''special technicians can have a look and rebuild motor will cost 6k'' let me know! bye bye I could go on and on. Theres 1/1000 chance the above scenarios actually happen with reputable tuners but thats just the risk any car owner has to take if your wanting to get it tuned whether you like it or not. Regarding the cost factor you maybe right, adding up the fuel costs etc it may just come down to the local price but the compromise might be the local tuner might not have such a quality map that would hinder the potential of what the setup is capable off. If maf tune, doesnt take as long to complete. E tuning aint hard, learn the risks associated and take pre cautionary steps to avoid. Too many faqs/reading resources around to make use of.

I was going to reply to a certain poster here who was absolutely f all clue what his on about but it would seem like i would beating a dead horse, its 2015 chaps - get with the times. OP take everyones opinion with a grain of salt because most of the members here wear fan boi tinted glasses and love to spit bs (dont be that guy). Back on topic plenty of reputable dyno tuners in the country Phil @ STM, Dtech are the ones ive heard the most good things about.

Gymkhana?

I'd be keen to get in on this, ive attended the last two of them and the only thing id recommend is get in early.

Thanks gents.

Any floating around? Looking for E1 pinout.

Geoff @ nz wiring still have their dynapack, ex shred. Can be hired out and id imagine its cheaper then stm.

Will there be any alterations to your up pipe once the 12cm ts goes on? Something like a twin entry up pipe similar to tomei design. Not gonna lie 12cm is big, bigger then what most aftermarket stock frame evo's run so hopefully you dont encounter extreme much lag With regards to the fmic, flipping the manifold? Maybe go a step further with the v mount haha. Honestly i really wanna experience the response on a v mount setup, with the minimal piping required it should be a response animal! If your sold on stm then i cant really change your mind there but what i will say is that it doesn't take long for an experienced tuner to steady state a car, i had the drive-ability nailed down perfectly with no issues within 3 revisions on speed density! You might be correct as far as timing goes but thats a trial and error story on road tunes and i'm willingly to bet stm does not tune all load cells for peak torque either, that would take a great amount of dyno time to perfect. The whole time going through revisions my car only knocked once and that was attributed to false knock. Everyone knows this by now but STM are too conservative which floats some peoples boat, not mine if im paying 1195 for a reflash. Fanboys need to come into terms with reality that there are better options out there. I would describe the e tuning as a great experience and ive learned alot with what goes on behind the laptop and honestly from what i think thats what is holding your setup back - the tune, there i said it, shoot me.

What headers are you using or will be using for t/s? Please dont say syms. Still using stm for tuning? Ever thought about e-tune.

thank you sir. next up manfeild trackday!