kris_pran

Mine seems handle 300+kw well... however i did mention my fabricator was saying its an average core. I'll be upgrading it for a better quality one down the track.

Well i ****ed up, it looks like the bar i bought is for V8 STI and above. Response from whiteline ''After my04 STI the track became wider and the type of link changed to the balljoint style link which attached to the top of the rear lateral not underneath like your original set .to make the bsr37z fit your car you would need to change the lateral arms and possibly drive shafts and diff and wheels or put complete rear end out of 04 on in'' Incoming for sale thread.

Ive never seen these mac valves, are they even plug n play? Op is sorting out an opensource tune so tuning side of things is sorted from what i can see.

If the boost is fluctuating then the wastegate duty cycle columns needs to be amended. Seriously dont waste your money on the aftermarket ebc, get a grimmspeed 3 port, its basically a ebcs but ecu controlled.

Put the stock one back on it man, will run better then venting to atmosphere ones. Also prevents stalling issues etc.

Can vouch for Ray Hartley, had mine in there recently. Reasonable priced as well.

I jacked both sides up. Im going to raise the car using the jacks again and undo the endlink bolts and drop the car. Lets see if some weight moves the bar to the correct position so the endlink lines up as vertical as possible. And boon - the whiteline instructions that it came with shows to keep the endlink on the outside not inside. If i fit it on the inside the angle is alot worse. We'll see how we go though once i attempt it in the weekend.

Yea i did it with the car jacked up because i dont have access to a hoist or ramp. I thought its ment to be at normal ride height when tightening it back up? Well thats what ive seen from some of the diy's from forums such as nasioc and iwsti

The other side has the same angle to it. The stock bar was bolted on the inside of the endlink whereas the whiteline is a bit wider so i only managed to get it on the outside like this with minimal angle on the endlinks. If thats normal then i can tell you its going to snap once i give it some stick around corner lol

So ive come across a issue while installing a whiteline 22mm rear sway bar onto my v7 sti. The stock endlinks do not line up straight as they were when the oem rear sway bar was on. Double checked part no and Part Number:BSR37Z is the correct one. The whiteline sway bar is a tad bit wider then the oem piece as well. Car is lowered a bit but not fully dropped. Anyone else had similar problems?

So a quick search on google about your turbo specs reveals that it falls into GT3576 range, you should make 250kw at the wheel easily. 2 inch up pipe is not on the large side, the stock v7 ones are close to 2 inch, i've got a 2.4inch up pipe on my 30r. The larger you go = loss of pressure/disrupts flow except it wouldn't matter in your case because you've got a big turbo. Why not shoot for 300kw? lol The stock internals can handle it.

Boost AFR Hate the idea of gauges clogging up the dash.

Thanks for that, i was struggling to read the two lines

Soo much information...

Very mild cams for the turbo minhaaj

No body sells them locally, its fairly easy to order from sites like import image racing or rallysportdirect.

What will your plans be with the car? The 2.5L = EJ257 and 2.0L = EJ207. <250-260wkw 2.5L - Great low end torque, fairly strong motor although they dont like alot of timing haha Anything above 250kw get the 2L, revs higher(8k redline) and the internals are a tad bit stronger then 2.5l.

Ive got the 3inch agency power hard under manifold inlet on mine, its an overkill on a STOCK LOCATION(subaru housing) 3071 because they really arent the real deal GT3071 (big comp housing) avcs is a MUST on these turbos because they are laggy as **** hahaha Hmm as far as i know ATP offers the stock location GT3071r, i havent seen one up close but it looks to be the real big ones with the subaru flange. I dont even wanna think about the pita it would cause to get one of those bad boys to fit in the stock location. They arent alot of reviews about them either and whenever they do pop up the results are mehh in comparsion to blouch. Blouch offers by far the best stock location turbos. There 1.5xtr basically a 3071 is perfect for the EJ207, 300kw might be a stretch for it on 98 pump but it'll get very close to that figure. Scoobyclinic is overpriced and blouch basically manufactures and assembles there units.

Any particular brand you have your eye on? ATP or Blouch etc

Thanks for sharing info on your setup man. Ahh meth, the good stuff

As far i know, raijin is running the Blouch 1.5xtr on a built 2.1l Pulls look to be in 3rd gear because that's making alot more kw & torque then my 2.5xtr. Also noticed they are uncorrected figure on dyno plot??

Whats wrong with what he said? Answer seems short but spot on, the JDM 207 has big port heads.

Yes really. I'll rephrase it to avoid flamage, there is negligible difference between the coupe and sedan equivalent.

1. Check to see if seller has receipts for rebuild & engine components. 2. Its worth around 11-12k if the mods are legit. 3. There's nothing special about a type r apart from being a coupe.