kris_pran

lol wut? The recommendation was put forward by Phil (club member) from Dynotech Industries himself and i would take his word over yours so um yea it is what it is. Its not like i woke up one day and decided that ohh ill shall run 24 because i feel like it :

23.8 to be exact , close to what i was aiming for (24).

V7 STI Full Exhaust Modified Stock Intake GFB Boost Controller Stock VF30 23psi peak tapering to 16.

Opening Special on Ecu Reflash for V7s If the price is right ill definitely sign up for it.

Thank you for your replies tebbyj and funkytown. I shall try it in the weekend and report back.

Thanks for your suggestion Both fans are coming on. How do i get rid of the airlock in the system?

At first when i discovered the coolant was leaking from the heater hose i replaced that and now the temperature seems to climb to the three quarter mark every-time im climbing a steep hill (wainuiomata hill) and remains there until i reach the top of the hill. Usually i turn it off for 2 mins and start it back up the temperature goes back to normal level. This has happened repeated number of times, it seems to happen on uphill climbs only whereas on flat roads and downhill its normal. There are no signs of coolant leaking at present. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

Well i finally got around to replacing all the driveline fluids and whatta ya know the knocks and odd jolts from gear changes have gone ..... Well well its seems the car has come up with a new problem which i will post on motor&turbo section. Dang i cant catch a break with this thing

thank you will get in touch will autolign. stoffa - unsure of when it was last serviced. Oils in the gearbox are at correct levels and dark yellow in colour and looks pretty rich/thick too.

Hey guys Ive seemed to come across a strange knock that occurs in a 99 legacy b4 auto when the gears change down from 4th to 3rd for example if i were to overtake somebody on the motorway, it knocks at the back (sounds like the diff) every time it kicks into 3rd gear. Could it be the diff bushes or diff is stuffed? Said car has done 170000kms Also another weird thing i noticed is that approaching roundabout or somewhere if i had to slow down/let off the accelerator completely and put my foot back on the accelerator the car seems to struggle to find which gear it is in and over revs and kicks(slight jolt not a knock) into gear. Is this normal? Have attached some photos of diff bushes. Do they look woren out? ???

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg These are what i found after a quick search. Could someone give me the green light whether this is the correct procedure for the car so i can go ahead and conduct a test.

Ok so the scanner has started working and it came up with TPS code. Took it out cleaned it, spring seems to be working fine as well. While putting it back in i noticed you could adjust from left to right while the screws are intact. I dont know how to adjust these in back correctly and if its just a bit out of place its makes a buzzing sound so I\'ve positioned it so that the sound doesn\'t come on when the key is turned to ON. Checked for codes again and nothing came up. but while i shift the gear to D i can hear that buzzing noise coming from the TPS for a quick 2-3seconds then it goes away. While driving it at 30km/h+ it suddenly feels like someone has applied the brake and the car starts slowing down and revs start falling by itself despite me not removing my foot from the accelerator pedal and then it comes back on again. Happens repeatedly Has this got something to do with the TPS not adjusted properly? The idle issue has been fixed i guess revs stay constantly at 500-600ish.

Yea ive got a hold off a Obd2 connection with the free ssm software but unfortunately the software responds back with \'\'no or invalid answer from ecu\'\'. Checked the connection again and the obd connection is hooked up correctly. ??? The black smoke i mentioned has gone away since the new afm was installed. tebbyj - Yea the idle does stay normal when its cold but once the temperature gauge gets to normal and a bit of slight revving the revs go down to 300rpm.

Hey guys Ive come across a problem on a mates 99 B4 automatic that was purchased not long ago. The problem was first discovered when we got in to start the car after a drive 2 hours ago which went completely fine. When we started it the revs dropped from 1500rpm to 800rpm then to 300rpm, sometimes it stalled completely. After a few searches on the internet and over here as well regarding similar symptoms i decided to do these things. 1. Check AFM for buildup of dirt. 2. Check TPS 3. Check ICV 4. Check for leaks/ lose vacuum hoses The AFM looked fine and didn\'t have any buildup of dirt of any sort, regardless we gave it a wack of contact cleaner. After checking and cleaning the above three sensors/valves we fired up the car and it ran perfect for 2 mins just as the problem was never there then the revs started to drop to 200-300rpm again and this time black smoke started pouring out of the exhaust. This lead me to the conclusion that it might be something to do with air or spark. The next day we pulled the spark plugs out and it didn\'t seem to be worn out, because it was on a sunday at 5pm we didn\'t get the chance to purchase replacement plugs so we cleaned the current ones with petrol and tested the leads and plugs that a healthy spark was being produced before putting everything back together. Started it up and ended up being the same as the day before low revs/stalling at idle/black smoke. Next day we put in a brand new genuine afm and reset the ecu. Started it up and noticed the black smoke coming from the exhaust before was gone but the idle issue remained. Now ive noticed the idle literally sits at 100-300rpm and the motor does not jerk at all as someone would expect from such low idle levels although it does stall at times. So we took it for a moderate drive and the turbo is really hesitant to come on boost and jerks really hard at around 3000ish rpm. We immediately stopped testing because we didn\'t want to risk blowing anything lol. The next day i started it up hoping for some magical thing might have happened that the car went back to normal lol when the key is turned to on there is a noise that sounds like an aftermarket fuel pump (current car is completely stock) coming from somewhere above the centre diff. the car hesitates while trying to rev it the slightest bit and even if i get it to 2000rpm and held it there the revs would just drop by itself and come back up and drop and come back up again even though i kept the pedal at the same place. Its really confusing because now i honestly have no idea what might be causing the issue, could it be something to do with the fuel delivery? Car always ran on bp98 Also is there a check engine light on these model legacys because i cannot see one when the dash lights up before starting. Any input would be appreciated

Any idea about the price range though? Stock internals??? What about the reliability assuming that I wont be running high boost like 25psi but more like 18-20psi?? Just curious, is 300kw the new thing these days on the street? 18-20psi wont cut it for 300 at the wheels on a 35r. Why not have two boost settings? Low boost at 18 and high at 25. There are a lot of guys in the states running 24psi pump gas in their daily driven cars.

Thats before i took it for a drive. Its just temporary sitting there in the photo..

Reason why i installed one is because im planning on getting it tuned next month. If MBC really is the problem then i might as well invest in a EBC :-\

MBC is the problem? They work perfectly fine, i have never seen any defects to them. Had them hooked upto my previous 360hp evo 8 held boost at 24psi all day long. Before that i had one on my version 4 sti that held 18psi. For some odd reason this one decides to spike on 3rd and after, 1st and 2nd are holding up fine. Ill upload a picture of how its hooked up soon.

Its been a while since ive been here :-X Just recently bought a V5 STI w/ a rebuilt Fully Forged V7 Short block and V4 Heads/VF24 Turb. Apart from the engine the car has an aftermarket 3 inch exhaust from the mid section but still running the restrictive factory downpipe, HKS Bov and a shitty pod flilter with a decent heat shield beside it.. Apart from that everything else is stock. Before the installing the mbc, factory was holding boost up till 18psi constantly. This is my 2nd sti and i have fitted a mbc a few times. After the install took it for a spin 1st - 18psi 2nd - 18psi 3rd - 15psi after 4000rpm spikes to 20psi Stopped testing after that lol. Checked for leaks and loose hoses. Nudda nothing everything was tied up.

Hey, Ive just bought a vf22 for my v7 wrx non sti and i was wondering what else would i need to get the most out of the vf22? injectors?fuel pump?reflash.. Im planning on reflashing it and getting a front mount intercooler installed as well. The car is mainly used for daily driving and street use. Kinda chasing 220 or 230ish kwatw if possible

sorry its a v4 sti sedan

Gonna replace the factory ones with set of components of just speakers.... Before i opened it up what size fits on them..... Originally i was gonna put 6 and a half inch speakers on but i was told by krishna down at SSZ it wont fit..... So would 6'' fit ?? I dont wana modify anything just a straight replacement.. Cheers Guys..

hmmm nah your not cool enough

When im usually driving at high speeds say about 160 or 180(private road ) ...so i apply the brakes gently then it starts shuddering in the front? Its not really a hassle cause i dont really drive like at 160 everywhere ...brakes fine at other speeds except above 160.. Is it my brake pads or rotors? ???