Flippymoi

For the benefit of others searching for the 128 fault code, it is possible to get with the wires, as I just got it myself. However I am not sure if it is a thermostat issue since the car has no problem coming up to temp and doesn't overheat. Perhaps a faulty temp sensor. If anyone else has figured out what the 128 fault code through the wire connector diagnostics means, please post here.

Check vac lines and reset ECU

Just FYI on the rolling issue, your paint will crack at the bend eventually. Heating it doesn't do shit either. And if you want them to be flared properly you need to cut the guard into strips, weld in sections and repaint, anything else will look half arse.

Go old school, cork rubber and a little gasket sealant. Any leaks make the cork expand. Leaks solved. Have not tried it on a Sub yet but worked a treat on my mk2 escort.

Easy to get from Subaru, couldn't find any online. New they are $130 genuine, I scoffed at the price so they gave me trade discount but still very pricey for what you get. Does not appear there are aftermarket ones available. If it was not so dirty I would have cleaned it with some compressed air but as you can see mine was a bit past that. You could possibly cut up some generic filter and try to fit it to the plastic frame but it would be a bit of an effort.

That makes me feel a bit better. I get about the same stats, 11l per 100km give or take a little. The fuel light comes on with 10l to go which I suppose would allow for another 100ks if you wanted to cut it really fine. Anyway, I should not turn this into another fuel consumption thread :

So there is nothing in the owners manual or the service manual on the pollen filter/air conditioning filter and I could not find anything at all when searching this forum so have posted up some pics on where it is and how to replace it for the benefit of the next person like me looking for some info. So, first thing: Yes there is a cabin air filter in most legacys. In the BH/BE 5 it sits in an air box behind the glove box and extracts contaminants from the air just before it hits the A/C heat exchanger core. Not sure if this should go in the Tech DIY section as it is Legacy specific but feel free to move it. Remove the glove box - Just remove all screws and stoppers. You will need to remove a plastic panel to the side of the centre console to get at the last screw (stupid design) This pic shows the air box (glove box removed). Remove the checkered plastic cover. Plastic cover removed Slide out the filter and give the inside of the box a careful vacuum to remove dead moths and the like. Insert your new filter in the correct air flow direction and replace the plastic cover. Ensure the cover is secure or it will leak air and you do not want to have to remove the glove box again. Turn on Aircon and check for leaks before replacing the glove box. This pic shows new vs old filter. I presume it has not been replaced since new which would be 10 years ago.

My stock peaks at 15-17psi at primary and secondary? 10 doesn't sound quite right. Also what is up with people getting 650-700km from a tank! I get 450-500 on a good day (rev d bh5). Any tips would be so appreciated given the price of fuel at the moment.

Vacuum leak? idle mixture? Idle revs? I would check all three as they are easy fixes. Pod filter should not stuff the a/f meter unless it has allowed the a/f meter to bounce around/bang against something. a/f meters are known to go bad with standard air intake anyway.

I am not sure that this will let you reprogram your Subaru ECU, just read info via laptop etc. You need tactrix cable or similar to make changes I believe. http://www.tactrix.com/ I think you can get the cable off ebay for about $150. Have you tried resetting your ECU before you try playing around with timing?

Yea, it is most likely a band expander problem. I solved my reception issues with a NZ head unit. Got mint reception until I drilled a hole through the coaxial cable to install a fire extinguisher (accidentally). Btw when I pulled out the console and the carpet on the passenger side to repair the cable I found that is where the ABS control unit wires are located. Stupid place for them but will teach me not to blindly drill through carpet again. My parents VW jap import also has shit reception due to band expander. Fine when you are out in the open in a city but rubbish when you pass under a bridge or go into the garage or venture out of Auckland.

Have you installed a boost/vacuum gauge? This can often help diagnose problems with turbos/wastegates and leaks. Does the CEL come on for low oil pressure? or is there a seperate warning light for that?

They use ludicrously priced spark plugs because they are such a bastard to get at to replace cheaper ones more frequently. You can use $6 plugs like you would in a toyota but you will need to replace them every 10,000k or so compared to the iridiums 60,000k or whatever it is. Easy on a normal engine, takes about 2 mins per plug, not on ours though

At 100,000km: cambelt, fuel filter, Air cleaner, transmission fluid/oil, coolant, brake lines, brake fluid and spark plugs - this according to Subaru service manual.

Use fully synthetic, castrol edge 5w30 or mobil 1 or something like that. Semisynthetic means mineral oil which will not stand up in turbos well. At 100,000km you need to do cambelt, fuel filter, Air cleaner, transmission fluid/oil, coolant, brake lines, brake fluid and spark plugs - this according to Subaru service manual.

First things first. Do not take your car to pitstop. You could probably teach them more about your car than they could teach you. Have you made sure nothing is loose around there? Torqued everything up that can be tightened? If the noise is definitely coming from one side and not the centre then I would say those above are probably right -strut is not right, or spring has come slightly unseated (not sure if that is even possible). A wheel bearing would also give you a noise on turning corners but would not normally be clunky. Are all your wheel nuts tight? Sounds stupid but you never know.

Why do you want to change them? Bigger is not always better. If you go too big on the front you will understeer more. You need to change antiroll bars either up or down depending on the tendency to over or understeer. Just going bigger in the front will not allow you to corner any harder, if a 20mm bar made the car handle better Subaru would have made it that size. Anyway if you must go bigger make sure you do something with the back end too.

Just fyi, wheel HP depends largely on how it is measured, ie. What dyno (manufacturer), what gear the power is measured in and what adjustments they made for humidity/elevation etc. Generally you loose 25% of the engine horse power from parasitic drag and running resistance, alternator, water pump, viscous diffs, gearbox, wheel bearings and on an auto heaps is lost in the torque converter, 4wd also means less whp compared to fwhp since there is more drag on the engine too - sometimes dynos adjust for this which gives a false figure also. I would guess a true dyno would give a 206kw legacy about 140-150kw at the wheels. A really generous, feel good about yourself bullshit dyno could tell you you have up to 180kw atw.

As an example the BE/BH5s 15psi air temp sits around 120-150 deg C before the intercooler and about 70-90 deg C after the cooler. Obviously depends on density of the air, heat soak, relative humidity and vehicle speed but it gives you an idea - at idle the heat exchanger will not work very well. I think I read somewhere from a guy that installed a water spray got his charged air down to 38 Deg C at about 50km/h with an outside temp of 20 something which is fairly good. As far as power goes, depends on barometric pressure, altitude and temp. Altitude is a big one. All of these affect the density of the air and therefore how much oxygen is delivered to the engine. Have you every driven up Mt Ruapehu? You should notice a big difference in power up the top, more so in an NA car than turbo. To calculate the power difference you would need to calc the difference in the air density and therefore oxygen content. Once you had the two different oxygen contents you can calculate how much fuel the car would add to use it up and from the energy density of the fuel and the effeciency of the motor you could calculate the difference in power. I would guess and it is only a guess, that on the central plateau on a very hot day with low barometric pressure (btw this would not normally go with a hot day) and a heatsoaked engine power could be reduced by 20-30%

I recently had an AVS S5 installed by Paul from VAS which is done through the AVS agent in Auckland. They do a good deal for club members. Install was well done, well hidden and very clean. He tied all of the wires into the existing loom making it hard for the thief to figure out. Happy with it so far and car has not gone missing. I have heard some not so good things about Mongoose. I had a dynatron in a BMW I had and I liked it. Simple remote, no false alarms, but then bmws are not really targeted the same was Subarus are. From all the research I did before going with AVS I found that Dynatron are toast if the thief gets to the brain quickly, Mongoose are close behind but the AVS has one imobilizer that is tricky to bridge. If you want overkill go for one of the South African produced alarm brands.

Quickest way to tell is definitely headlights/bodykit. Most foolproof is to check the model code. I think all E-Tunes are Rev D?

Standard S401? Cracks me up, the heater is on 30 and directed all to feet. Must suck to live somewhere so cold you have to direct everything you got just to keep your feet from getting frost bite.

Or figure out that changing gears fast/well makes a bigger difference to acceleration than any of these small HP gains.

Like $6 vs $25 to $30... but coppers don't last too long. In my previous skylines (gtst's) i only ever run NGK Coppers gapped to 0.8 for fatter spark to avoid detonation.. may have been just placibo, but seemed to run smoother with the coppers.. this is however only MY opinion. Buy standard NGK plugs and check/regap/replace them every 10,000k will be better and cheaper than spending money on shiney metal.

Do lock nuts work? I have always thought that there are probably a few designs out there and if you bought them from trademe or something it would be easy for a thief to have a sellection of nut keys and just find the right one for you nuts. Also a big pipe wrench would make easy work of them. - I do have lock nuts but have never had much faith in them.