Jord

Nice one! I was horrified at the stock piping (esp secondary) when I first pulled a TMIC off a TT legacy. I will probably do this if I ever have to pull the bloody thing off on mine again. What was the cost for the two pipes?

Ended up getting the price down to $207 a corner, so Im happy with that

Priced up a new set of Bridgestone RE002s in 215/45/17 for the Legacy $215 a corner is the best quote so far... sound pretty decent?

A bit of oil is normal in the TMIC is normal.

I'll be down with my legacy over summer.

35nm or 26ft.lb on the downpipe studs

I would confirm that bad turbo is the correct diagnostic before spending all the effort pulling it out. Pulling it out is pretty straight forward its the little things like seized nuts that take up lots of time. Basically remove TMIC and drop the downpipes, drain coolant and remove oil and water lines then pull turbo out. Going back in is a lot more time consuming and having 2 people really helps. The oil return can be a bit of b#tch to get back along with up-pipe bolts and lastly the TMIC. The last time I changed one I unbolted the up-pipe and lifted it out slightly to tighten all three bolts holding it to the turbo the dropped it back down in place as one unit.

You can purchase aftermarket tinted side indicators. I purchased set of Trademe a year and half ago. If you cant find any listed to fit B4 legacy then forester and V7+ side indicators are just the same AFAIK

The uppipe flanges are still different different between the primary and secondary. Twin turbo down pipe flanges are different to the single turbo ones as well. Only 4 studs on a TT turbine rather than 5. As for the VFxx number its just an age thing the oldest being VF8 where as the current day models are up into the 40s

+1 for genuine. They are very nice quality.. around $50 for both from memory

Personal I would try to get a genuine one.. the last thing you want is a leaking BOV. You can get a good secondhand genuine HKS SSQV for less than that if you keep a look out for them.

Black Blitzen 6 with tan leather? Was looking thinking of buying it last year from a dealer in Wellington! Looked really tidy shame its an auto Those brakes most definitely aren't factory fitted if that's what your asking? Someone in Japland threw some serious money at it though!

Because its a ball bearing turbo giving faster spool.

If its not any faster then why put extra stress on the motor/turbo?

Thats sounds a bit vague.. Maybe pay to get someone who knows Subarus to have a quick look at it. Cost wise a brand new primary(?) turbo is $1200+ from memory so not really worth it unless you plan on keeping the car for a long time to come. Secondhand turbos usually vary from $100-$400.

I wouldn't bother with a turbo timer, just don't turn it straight off after giving it a thrash, its not very often you come straight the motorway and turn your car off anyway. The drive down your street at 50kmh on light load is a long enough cool down period, Subaru turbos are water cooled so that cool down period isn't as crucial like the old oil cooled units. Can cause problem with alarm if not correctly installed either... But def +1 for a decent alarm system.

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,30129.0.html

Oh I agree, only had 95 available when I lived in Nelson.

My car runs 2.5'' turbo back into 3'' tail section with hi-flow cats. Runs 15psi rock solid,no spikes. Around town fuel consumption is pretty bad but open road is pretty good, I did Wellington to Hamilton with just under 1/3 tank left. 98 octane helps with consumption.

Service history! As they get cheaper thats when people start skipping oil changes and cutting corners with maintainence. I would look for ones with minimal mods too, though its normally pretty easy to pick which ones have been owned by a idiot. Let it warm up then give it a bootful on the motorway to 6.5k rpm to check both turbos are operating. Can be problematic trying to sort out boost issues on these if you arent familiar with the system. Do a couple of full lock turns to test for any unusual noises, it wont make a happy noise if the centre diff is poked. Apart from that just the normal checks you would do when buy a secondhand car. They are great cars if well maintained and can be had for a tidy price if you keep eye out. Enjoy!

The CEL will go out as soon as you fix the problem and the performance will return to normal, but the code will remain in the ECU until it wiped. Either leave the battery disconnected for an hour, or connect green + black plugs together under dash and turn on and drive at above 11kmh until the CEL goes out.

The IACV on a BG5 is detached from the throttle body no? Im pretty sure it be can removed with out taking off the IC

If the code is still there then it wont disappear until the problem has been fixed. I heard cases of the knock sensor error popping up but then going away after a reset to some other factor, but if its there after a reset than the ECU is still picking up a problem from there and it needs to be addressed.

Whats the legality around using a varex muffler controlled by the factory actuator? Would sound rather funny... fake VTEC anyone?

Yep sure do.