I tried a different headlight restoration kit with really fine grit sandpaper in it and a special milk looking polishing stuff and found it wasn't worth it, still yellowed up quick smart.
I do it myself and use the turtlewax scratch and swirl remover.... it works nice on your paint and works really well on the headlights. I still have to give them a quick going over every 6 months or so, but it's just a 5 minute job.
I have a racepro type s full vent on a 94 GT and when it is cold the revs will die and almost stall pulling up to intersections. I will plumb it back at some stage but it's not really too much of an issue.
Also, the nearest Mainfrieght depot to Balclutha is Dunedin which is 40 minutes open road driving at 100ks so he might be charging you petrol there and back to Balclutha??
I've got a 1994 wagon and I have not had very few dramas. I got an older one with a EJ20H solely for the reliablity of the long block as I didn't want to have to rebuild after a BEB 3 months after buying it. I have had mine for 2 years and the most I have had to spend on it at one time has been the rear struts and some bushes but it will need a new clutch in the near future. One thing that the older TT tended to to was spit out cel dode 66 fairly regularly. This means the sequential turbo systym has a fault of some sort and can be basically anything to do with the turbos and can be a pain to try and sort out. My car is fantastic and I take it on the track every now and then and if you want the extra 20kw that they didn't have it is very easy to find that back with a few simple mods.
The primary turbo can be swapped for any of the later model twin turbo's so if the original primary died look at getting a primary of a 2000 or 2001 RSK or GT-B. Good luck
I'm heading along the same road shortly and have decided to go with a factory rated one. Even though I do a few track days I prefer to have the standard rated clutch die instead of rebuilding the gearbox. Not this will stop it shredding gears if it's going to but rather have the weaker link in the drivetrain being the clutch nott he gearbox.
From my limited experience you will get a good sound for a bit and then they will probably crackle and die and sound like mud after a while. That won't be until a wee bit down the track though so you should be fine for a bit... the louder you play the music the quicker they will die...
I havn't come across any bd/bg without it except for my wagon. pretty sure it has never had it as well as there is no bolts or marks on the paint where it was...
cel 66 is sequential trubo system so I wish you good luck but won't be able to help. Try replaceing your bov on the secondary side. It is a common cause of this fault but it could be a hundred other things.....
I will have to be square unfortunatley...... leaving for the UK tomorrow... A guy in a silver bg might come down and he won't know anyone so be nice........
The bolt pattern is the same at the top of the strut tower but on the bg's there is that bracket on the front of the drivers side tower that gets in the way of some strut braces. The STI ones are fine though..
This is exactly what I have.....
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Other/auction-233368915.htm
Very happy with it. Pretty sure it is for a BG/BD but they all fit....
Yeah I concur... my wagon has smaller discs than the b4 with two pots. Good fluid with good set of pads made a huge difference....... I still want 4 pots for the track however but for around town they are fine..