DPI

Yeah, well, he was... :'( Gave it up, sold his business and moved to Taupo now... Shame, he was my mechanic for about 6 years. Farkin knowledgable (was trained by subaru), and honest (not something you find often in a subaru mechanic)... He used to organise WRC trips for him, his mechanics and customers...(awesome trips, bottles and bottles of Coruba and plenty of sunburn)... Different t-shirts printed every year: Drinks and funny hats... Who do they support again? Bit of fun: Early Sunday morning, lots of mist around...took a wrong turn and ended up in the middle of the officials area...we got waved through as we all had Subaru gear on and in a white 4x4, like the officials...

Just been to the BP and there were two asian guys with a Bright orange R34 Coupe. Big FMIC, plenty of electrickery in the cabin and nice rims... ...on closer inspection, i saw it had 'ULTRA HIGH PERFORMANCE' Nankang tyres... Asked the driver why, and he just shrugged. Asked if he got any traction and he smiled and said...no. Buying an R34 project: $18000 Respray: $3500 Electronics: $3000 FMIC kit: $1400 Rims: $1000 Fitting Nankang tyres: WORTHLESS :D

Maybe we (well, someone who HASN'T been blacklisted) should invite him to the photoshoot so we can inspect this RARE Singapore spec vehicle...

Just got an answer from the guy that brought the Singapore sti on trademe. He didn't go through with the sale as he realised it was not an STI as claimed...

Yes, this is a Rob from 1st Automotive job. It's STINKY's old car... In fact, the pics were taken out the back of the workshop. 99% sure he said it had std internals, not sure on injector size, maybe yellows? if i remember. 20PSI and it had been running with no problems for years...

I was at a red, so i had time to watch... Guy in the van was looking at the guy behind in the rear view mirror, and having a heated conversation with him... ;D Then, exit car and van and lots of arm movements and rapid sound bursts...all this while the people behind them were waiting... Also, dropped the old man off at the airport last week. Just parked at the international terminal and, while we're sitting in the truck, a nissan pulsar pulls into a park accross from us; rolls in on an extreme angle, no brakes and then stops with a screach of brakes. The car has an enourmous shunt up the rear, demolished bumper and right tail light, every panel is dented, it's a wreck... Asian guy jumps out and walks off and the old man cracks up and says, oh, you have them in NZ too.... Farken funny.

Yeah, unusual. Car was a 1989 Legacy RS, was an ex-taxi from Tokyo. Dyno'd at 240kW at the wheels (i think, maybe more...many years ago now). Link, std internals, TT block, VF22 and FMIC. Sh1t your pants fast!

Yeah, used to be that, between every stretch of open road and a town, there used to be a 70kph buffer zone, but a hell of a lot of these have gone now. Often, you will be driving at 100kph, come round a corner and there's a 50kph sign 50m away... No buffer, or time to gradually slow down, just mash the brakes and your in town limits. While it IS possible to slow down to 50kph relatively quickly, it normally depends on how far up your arse the dickhead behind is... On that note...saw a good one yesterday: Asian guy in a van, at the lights but in the left hand turning (free turn) lane. He was stopped, waiting for turning traffic and obviously took his foot of the brake but didnt move... Asian guy in a seriously dented car, coming up behind him must have thought he was about to accelerate off so didn't bother braking and bang (just like a gay rapist), slammed him in the rear. Ever seen two asian guys yelling at each other in traffic? Priceless.

Here is a nice set up; yes, i know its a legacy but near enough. Taken this for a drive and it was BRUTAL. Had custom extractors made to mount turbo at the back, no subbie rumble though. Also, the scoop directs a nice flow of cold air directly onto the turbo...

Good luck retaining it at 140kph Jase... Most i ever did with it up was 110...

I've been told a lot of stuff by police officers over the 26 years i've been driving, some of it is true, and some of it is just made up on the spot... The rule, as far as i know used to be 400m after the sign, but, you couldn't just maintain speed and then hit the brakes, you had to be braking from the sign... Don't know what the rule is now as i pay very little attention to road rules. Driving by the book is likely to get you killed on our roads... Just drive in a reasonable manner, and watch every other road user like a F*cking hawk! ...and, always blow on the pie. Also, don't give cyclists an inch, until they start paying rego on thier bikes & stop restricting the flow of traffic, they have as much right to be on the road as a pedestrian!

So, seller is miss representing it then. I'm confident he didn't rebuild it to RA-R factory spec...and i guarantee FF&T wouldn't fit the bill for it...

D2's (with pillowball mounts and camber plates all round) were fine in the GT wagon. Used for street only and did many, many km's on them with no problems. Stiffish, easy 3 wheel. Cost $1499(new) in 2006, around $1200 now? Tein Type HA (non height adjustable, but with pillowball and camberplates on front. Were fitted second hand to a '97 WRX wagon and were VERY hard, even on softest setting. Probably better suited to track. Cost $600 (second hand) in 2005 Around $2500 to $3500 now, depending on model. Buddy Club Racing Spec Dampers (Pillow ball mounts and camber plates front only, height adjustable). Fitted to Spec C and were excellent on road and gravel. Softest setting slightly firmer than new STI suspension, each click up was considerably firmer (never wound up to full as i think 3 was the most I tried, pretty firm at 3. Went to 16 i think). Cost ($1400 new, but that was cost) Around $2800 new now.

Yes, and for good reason too. At 80, you get quite a draft, at 90 it gets a little harder to close and at 100 or over, very hard to pull it closed... Sometimes forget to close it when you get on the motorway and once up to 100 its got shitloads of air pressure against it. I just sold one not too long ago...

Cause the guy is probably related to the singapore star... He claims it was never blown up, just running rough due to 98... Anyone know for sure if it went pop? If it did, and was rebuilt to 'exact factory spec' (which the seller claims it is), must have been a very costly rebuild, as Spec C pistons would be around the 8-10k mark alone...

Just how many times could you sell an item, not complete the trade, and then relist before Trademe got interested? Surely they must have had a look at it by now.

WOW, someone dodged a bullet there...

From memory, i set the suspension up with Rear -1.4 camber and neutral toe; front -1.6 camber and neutral toe. With those settings, the Buddyclub Coilovers and adrenalins (plus the quick rack steering), that thing handles like a friggin dream. As you will no doubt know by now... [quote name='Jonnysnow said: so stoked i started this thread before i bought those triangles/ling longs hahah. think i'll end up getting some toyo t1r's as they seem to be the best bang for buck. thanks for all the info everyone Your best bang for buck, IMHO, is Proxes 4. I don't rate the T1R's at all. Had them on the Spec c with above settings, and they were arse; slippin and slidin everywhere. Had proxes4 on the Legacy wagon (brand new), with D2's and rear -2 camber, front -1.6 camber and that thing handled very well too. Also, unsprung weight may make a small diff too... So, anyone with big heavy chomes....ha, ha, ha...

All cams are lumpy...

TBH though, it's not always the most expensive tyre thats the best, or better. And vehicle and driving style play a part too. I had a brand new set of Toyo T1R's on the spec c, and i don't rate them, at all! They caused understeer (and the spec c NEVER understeered before). However, on the GT Legacy wagon, i had a brand new set of Toyo Proxes 4, and i would rate them, very highly actually. Go figure. By the way, neither were anywhere as good as the Adrenalins.

Evo version doesn't match STI version exactly. EVO 1 & Evo 2 - STI 1 Evo 3 - STI 2 Evo 4 - STI 3 Evo 5 - STI 4 Evo 6 - STI's 5 & 6 Evo 7 - STI 7 Evo 8 - STI 8 Evo 9 - STI 9 & 10 Evo 10 - STI 11

Not relisted yet, far as i can see...

Unless you have a cycle, i'm guessing you would need 4 tyres: So, at $600 for 15,000km =4c per KM My Adrenalins $1200 were fine (how are they now paul) after 40,000km which is 3c per km and they have, maybe another 20,000km left in them = 2c per km. Cheap tyre are false economy.

50,000km's + DON'T use Triangle, Linglong, goodshaft or whatever they are called. The money you save, plus maybe 2-3 times more will then need to be used to repair your vehicle when it fails to take a corner, fails to stop etc...

Don't know where you are, but .com on the north shore had some .com rims (old carson rims) in 17 and (maybe) 18 x8.5 and 9 for 5x100. You'd need around 45 offset, i think theirs were 42...may fit. Lightish too at 7.9kg, not as light as the Volks though...