THUNDA

Woop, new S*** finally installed and the bitch is running tight! Still yet to put greys in but thats the next step, couldnt find any even from strongs (yes there are second hand ones on trademe but they look rusty af) Switch for the chip is wired backwards so ive finally figured out the ecu issues Switch "OFF" is actually "ON" which Completes circuit for the speedlab chip, which is tuned for yellow injectors, in this state the car runs good Switch "ON" is actually "OFF" which Breaks circuit for the SpeedLab Chip and runs factory ECU which is expecting GREYS. in this state the car runs rich and backfires So as soon as I get greys, Im gonna pull the chip right out and run the factory ECU as its ment to Damn what a head do with that reverse wired switch!!!

Just ask for a trade car when your in the store, I owned a business, however I didnt have to show any proof of that, Its a building business anyway lol, I just said i buy S*** often from supercheap to keep my tool/machinery working up to par Less that 24 hours all my items came, even my trademe stuff... Super Stoked! Woop, car is running tight, hell doesnt even miss at all on idle now Really digging the blue on black engine bay STZ, bay getting messy though :B

New plugs are in but I left engine bay in bits untill other parts arrive, I dont drive it much. Super Cheap in... Kelston My RS has alot of 2nd hand parts on it from various WRXs so still keeping with the wrx wasted spark coil setup but getting brand new S***

Nope, Asked for the correct set of plugs for my car, they types in my engine details and computer said this, was expecting around $100 for 4, after trade discount think it was about 80 Am just trying to rule out my ignition system as the cause for my loss of power, so going new is the main thing, NGK probably has some extra S***, as its more expensive

Sneaky shop at supercheap and trademe today Get some fresh spark plugs, old ones are F***ing old as F*** Ordered new Ver3 NGK HT leads and new Ver3 Coil pack (holy faaark coils are expensive new) but wanted to know I was getting a fresh one Walbro gss324 500hp fuel pump in transit, hope it all arrives before friday so i cant finally have a boost on the weekend

Keen as on the Track day on sunday, plenty of time to have the RS sorted What exactly is amazing race/rally - $20 per person? sounds more amazing than the track day, but I have my doubts

Am having trouble finding out what chip is in my WRX RA ecu which runs in my RS BC5 Pulled it out to find some dodgy wiring and a speedlabs chip which looks like its been soldiered in my an amo Emailed speedlabs nz, they cant tell me what type it is and cant tell me what it might be, as someone may as bought a chip for an RS BC5 and installed it onto this ECU without knowing its a WRX ecu Swtich for the chip was unside down so when I thought it was off the chip was actually ON and the car normally runs relatively well, but with chip OFF it backfires under deceleration and doesnt perform very well / pickup is lacking - but correct boost is created either way Am keen on changing back to greys but have been warned that if the chip is tuned for yellows then the car could potencially run lean and cause damage quickly, as opposed to leaving in the yellows and it just running rich So failing I find what type of chip it is should I just put greys in and see what happens or leave it? Im planning on getting a Power FC or Link and getting it tuned in the future so maybe just plug it back in and leave it untill then? looking at pics of speedlabs chips in ecus - mine looks upside down in the socket : /

You WRX is the only newer/modern model car I think is badass

Sweet have locked that walbro pump into the list of to dos (there really is a list and its loooong haha) Im all over the factory WAIC. they rule imo. When i got the car it had the V1 IC on it already, and factory water pipes and pump have been removed Which is why I tried to "upgrade" to a V6 sti IC. Did a bit of research AFTER buying my V6 Sti intercooler, turns out nearly all top mount intercoolers perform very similarly, almost no gain from the V1 IC to the V6 and also they dont fit on the ol BC's - good lesson though now I always check my S*** first haha Still got the bloody v6 ic couldnt sell it for 1/3 of what I paid for it >_<

I dont use factory wastegate Have a tial with a 9 or 10psi spring, very happy with its performance over the factory wastegate. i say 9 or 10 psi as I dont often look at the gauge and not very closely while driving, but whereever the needle on the gauge goes its always the same Yo what walbro fuel pump exactly? what model number did you use? Wasted spark on the coils from what looks like a V3, 2 double ended coils on top of manifold only 1 bolt to mounting it on though, would like make a plate to fit it properly in future Just to confirm I do still have the factory MAP and EGR hooked up to the factory vacuum line, just factory ebc is unused

Nope, no boost controller at all, boost controller leaks vac to obtain different pressure from the wastegate actuator I dont use the factory wastegate either, installed a 38mm Tial (mounted under the car straight off the exhaust manifold) and it performs extremely well no boost spikes at all, not even half a psi, no boost creep in the slightest Yup ive seen stock boost is 11.47psi which it would be if I had the factory ebc hooked up the computer could and did make it that before I upgraded a wastegate No need for the factory ebc at all once you run an aftermarket wastegate, you can turn it up by fitting an aftermarket ebc/mbc but im happy with a nice low 9/10psi at the moment because I dont want it to blow up before ive had a chance to fix all the stupid hack job mods its had in the past

If your car is boost cutting (sudden complete cut out for 1 second on boost) Then id say you are likely to be over boosting and your gauge will be inaccurate or your gauge will be reading vac of a bad vac line? Best to go straight off manifold, I usually unbolt a square shaped bolt on the left/centre had side of the manifold, then drill a 3.2mm hole in the bolt and put the 3.5mm boost line into it (hose is plastic and bigger so goes in tight as F***) MAPs are accurate as F*** imo and it will definately know whats up if boost goes too high it will signal the ecu instantly

Ive found the factory EBC has always been very reliable for me in the past, untill i got the BC5 that i own now and it was causing a similar issue Boostgauge was reading 14psi with no MBC just the factory ebc but with foot down it would suddenly fully cut as soon as turbo spooled up fully and gave me a pressure duty solenoid CEL I was skeptical but i put a 2nd hand one in and it solve that problem which is the first time I can say the factory ebc has failed me, and ive F***ed with at least 10 others in the most amateur ways possible without having factory ebc failure in the past. After a bit of research into my own ECU (which is a W6 out of a 93 wrx RA) I noticed the Z4 was used alot when running a TD05 and seemed like a very oftenly mentioned suitable ecu for your engine combined with your td05 After doing the Fuel pump wiring mod in my car I cant say it made any difference, have never had issues with factory fuel pumps in these cars and the same goes with the fuel pump wiring, although many people have had troubles when upping the boost etc, if your fuel pump is maxing out on a resonably standard boost with reasonable standard parts I would be surprised Failing coil symptoms arnt boost cut - if youve got 4 seperate coils and one fails a symptom is misfiring under load then goes to complete misfire these are easy to check when you do get a misfire - just unplug each one untill the one you unplug doesnt change running engine condition then thats the bad one Dont think maxed out injectors boost cut either, with just over or under fuel. if youve got grey tops and a td05 and a z4 then thats what its ment to have to run right

Roger that Boost is at 9/10psi which is standard I believe . I don't run a boost controller so psi is regulated by the new wastegate do you mean just the fuel pump wiring or the pump itself also? I'm quite keen on putting the usual walbro pump in before a head towards tuning it professionally. the coils are from a later model wrx looks like v3 so the coils arnt in the heads. They are I top of manifold and visually the look fine however I'm yet to do a resistance check . i have 3 green sticker afms which all perform the same. Spent nearly the whole weekend eliminating / testing factors to try to find the source physically turbo functions well, no shaft play and turbo makes and holds boost easily. Will have a check around the x manifold and up pipe as I did fiddle with that area when doing the wastegate , maybe a leak Next steps I'm thinking will be confirming Ecu ability to run which injectors/ going back to grey injectors and checking the ignition circuit will have to to wait till next weekend . I don't get much free time at all during the week

Quote= W6 ECU code = 380cc injectors, 240ps TD05H turbo Ah, looks like a case of google research gone wrong on my behalf Just had a deeper search and found that you sir are correct!

the computer in the car is from a 93 RA wrx which ran yellows so with the chip turned off the computer is still expecting to run yellows

Car currently has yellows so its got the right ecu in there, fuel pump wiring mod is done and FP is running at 100% car is still fading, so guess its gonna be onto the ignition system next weekend am thinking its a failing coil, if it is then hopefully there is a suitable MSD coil similar to the current wrx twin pack bang bang bang bang Fully understand where your comming from but when i got the car it ran pretty well (id say 90% power compared to my other BC5s) and the problem has gradually got worse over a few months time - which to me indicates a physical deterioration if it was computer related wouldnt it have been constant?

Sorted it, from the relay in my car its a thick black with red stripe which heads to the fuel pump - but changes colour half way at another plug at fuel pump plug its a thick blue with yellow stripe, ground is thick black which heads back towards the relay but goes somewhere else, at relay there is no black wire to indicate a ground

Been doing the fuel pump wiring mod today, however I dont have the same colour wires as in the guide nothing is straight forward bleh https://www.dirtyolbc.co.nz/community/topic/906-changing-a-fuel-pump/ He says cut a black wire with yellow stripe, ive got a thicker wire at the relay which is red and black but that is already substantially thicker gauge, and am thinking its power from battery/ignition and if you zoom in you can see he doesnt cut the black with red stripe plug at relay has 4 wires thick one black with red stripe, 2 thin yellows and a thin green with black stripe at fuel pump ive got 5 wires, 3 thin ones which are 2 green and a black, and 2 thick ones which are blue with yellow stripe and black is it possible subaru changed the loom when my car was made ? (1992 bc5) or am i changing one of the thin wires to a thick one

/?Actually looking further into it it said 380cc injectors... those are greys yeah? so the 93 wrx ra had greys? interesting edit : getting conflicting information, 93 wrx ra had yellows (info from 3 sources)

ok so to confirm the ecu is suitable for the mods wonder why when I switch the chip on the car runs so crapily? sure its more aggressive but it pops n farts, doesnt sound right, maybe with the chip switch on the fuel map richens up a bit and the failing coils cant handle it, which makes sense as when the chips switched off the coils run sweet untill you floor it, sounds like a "cant keep up" worn coil issue even more now

The Brown EGR sensor above the EBC has confused me a many many time Because there is only 1 vac line from the T/b attached to it, then another vac line straight to the MAP sensor So the EGR sensor allows the ecu to control the EGR Solenoid which sends exhaust gas through the fat black round cylinder thing on left of radiator then back into intake manny .............Theres a part of me that wants to bin the whole damn thing haha Wouldnt it make sense to have a seperate vac line for the MAP? unless the little charcoal canister filters the air to keep the MAP sensor free of debris .... ok makes sense now :B

Ecu does have a chip, speedlab or something crap, its switchable so I just leave it turned off, car backfires while decelerating with chip on. Yup i gave the coil a visual inspection, seems fine however not ruling out failing coil just yet Will have to pick up a new multimeter and give them a proper check I only checked 1 spark plug which looked sweet, not oily, not crispy white just a tad carbonish Nice yeah I thought that grey plug would be something like that, the res on top of the pump doesnt quite fit properly, leaks a bit which is on my to do list also the last pic of the 2 yellow wires are located under the topmount intercooler, so thinking they would have been like a temp sensor which ran the original water pump 02 sensor is sweet and working well, cleaned it up when i installed the external wastey was leaning more towards fuel pump / fuel pump wiring issue but now im also thinking coil / dead ht lead / plugs

ECU is a W6, thinking thats the standard ecu? z4 ran the td05 and yellows iirc wasnt even bolted into the bracket This small grey plug is plugged into nothing and cant find anything for it to go into, under the intake manifold behind the ps res 2 Yellow wires cut off going to nothing, am thinking it may have been the wires for the old water to air intercooler ?

Brand New Coil New HT Leads New Plugs Fixed it, old plugs looked ok but were old as F*** coil was second hand from a GC8 so replaced the whole lot Sorted =================================== Riiiiight so this problem has been doing my head in Need some outside perspectives Problem was only barely noticable when I got the car and has gradually got worse So, the situation - Car runs well, no fault codes, no hesitation or mis-firing Driving along, at 0, 1/4 or 1/2 throttle the car performs well pickup is good even when the turbo isnt spooling as soon as you go past 3/4 throttle to Open throttle, you can feel the car loose power, slightest hesistation, like when a coil is failing and 1 of the cylinders is cutting in and out, but not as noticeable It is very noticable because if you back off on the throttle after having foot to floor, the car with pick up power again and perform strongly At any throttle the car with make boost and hold it strong at 9psi with no spikes or creeps, however at full throttle, there is a noticeable lack of power compared to if I boosted with only 1/2 throttle ========================================================= This weekend I installed a new fuel filter, which made no difference, original filter wasnt very old either I also installed the factory Cold air intake box with a new filter (fitted the same AFM so its running as it was technically) Had a look under the fuel pump cover to view hoses and wiring, all seems ok like it has never been touched Checked for loose wiring / unplugged wires in engine bay ======================================================== Suspicions: Fuel pump looks to be the original, and with 265,000kms I wouldnt blame it if it started to fail (am thinking of trying the fuel pump wiring mod) checked the H/T leads were secure and noticed on 1 of the coils on 1 outlet had a small amount of white build up where the H/T lead goes in, where as the others are completely clean (running V1 Coil set up) Somewhere under the car in the middle, roughly above the driveshaft there is what sounds like a vacuum leak, ive been under the car multiple times and have not been able to find the source, this has been like that since I bought the car and does not seem to have gotten worse Last owner installed yellow injectors and td05 turbo however I am unaware if the ecu was changed to suit, so could be injectors over fueling and coil packs have been under high load causing them to slowly break down There are no physical signs that the car is running rich, engine doesnt smoke at all and never smells like petrol Rocker cover gaskets are slightly leaking on both banks TPS looks like its been adjusted many times by an amateur (screws completely rounded) so no idea if this is in the right position, car does idle fine despite this ============================================== Any help appreciated!