DXROLLA

Looking over the pictures of my build i noticed this photo, shows the crank sensor with a bit of damage. Do you think this would be enough to cause a problem?

Turns over sweet, doesnt even try and fire. Ive read on the net some people get the cam sensor and crank sensor around the wrong way? Could this be possible? I didnt put them in my engine builder did, any way of checking them?

So i have my engine back in and all plumbed/wired up, but it just wont fire. I have done a bit of research on the net and im sure i have the injectors/coils around the right way but i would like some pictures just to confirm. It turns over but wont fire, its getting fuel as i have taken the plugs back out and cleaned them due to being covered in fuel, so the only thing i could think is the coils? Any other ideas out there?

Just bought 50ft of thermo tec stuff of trade me, will see how it goes, hopefully do the trick

Awesome cheers for the advice http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/exhaust/auction-683183182.htm Seems cheap?

As title says, there seems to be quite a variation on the price of heat wrap, is it the more it is the better it works or is there a certain brand to go for? I want to do my 250t headers i bought and possibly the down pipe as well

What are the torque settings for the cam pulleys on an ej20, looking in the manual there are two different conflicting settings. one pages say 39nm +4 so assuming total torque 44nm, than on another page it says 78nm+5 again total torque being 83nm. Which one sounds correct? As i have torqued them to the first specs than i read the second after i put the rocker covers on arrrrgggghhh

Should look sweet, what are you going to do with the factory gaurds?

Nice looking car, should look sweet once the flares are on

Just scored me some of these from pickapart for $25 ;D now time to take the factory heat sheilds off and heat wrap them.

Cheers for the upload, they sound the biz Do you have a pic of the manifold so i know what im looking out for?

Cool cheers, also what size are your tyres? Looks like a nice setup

now those are bloody beautiful as well What size tyres are those? And is that the standard offset you are running or do you have spacers?

Ive got my engine down at car aid, seem very good to deal with, they are very busy at the moment by the sounds of it.

So while i have the engine out i am going to get the gearbox rebuilt, as it was getting pritty notchy and when you were going down hills engine braking it would start wineing. Who in ChCh is good at doing these? Id want the front diff checked as well.

Are they the same as the redline ones? Will see what my bill looks like with my engine than ill be in touch if they dont sell, cheers

Cheers for the input, they seem cheap enough so maybe worth a try see how long they last, if you run a flexi joint and mount them properly should they be ok? Or is it more the heat that is the problem with them?

Yeah i herd the stainless ones have a tendency for cracking, whats a good brand to go for? Not worried about getting rid of the rumble, if anything it would make it more unique

As title say has any one used them? Seem pritty well priced, much of a performance upgrade? Main reason im looking for some aftermarket ones is the factory ones weigh a tonne

Ok cheers, i thought it didnt sound right after doing a bit of research. Car aid here in ChCh

Had a chat to the place who is going to do my engine for me and he was saying my engine (wrx sti RA version 2) isnt a proper closed deck block, they just have something welded on top, compared to an early legacy closed deck is a true closed deck block, would this be true?

Yeah this would be my first choice as i would like to keep the orignal bits as much as possible. Only thing it looks like im going to have to do is maybe run a front mount, and if i do this i want to flip the manifold which by the sounds of it the v2 ones you can just turn around. Next issue will be getting the oil problems sorted, so a baffled sump is deffinitly on the cards and i will talk to RDL about what mods they could do to the block (if any) to help with that. As i will hopefully get them to put the engine togeather for me as i dont have the time or all the wright tools to do it properly. If only money grew on trees!! ;D

Yeah its a closed deck block, would a standard rebuild handle what im after? By standard i mean STI bits so factory forged pistons? Are the rods up to task? Set of race bearings, arp studs ect. If everything is ok inside hopefully i could just go for a set of rings and bearings?

So many shims ;D Was thinking again for the money i would have to spend buying a new block i could forge my block, well close to it, if i did that whats the advantage to running a v7 block are they still stronger?