Wiretap

Bellmouth seems to be all the rage these days, but Divorced (siamese) or Split-tube are better. (split tube has a seperate tube for the wastegate that joins in down near the bottom)

It'll split down into 3 bits (downpipe, midpipe, tailpipe/muffler) and fit in your Impreza, I've transported a few that way. I have plenty of space and a couple of things you might like to see

It's a Kakimoto, it'll be a bolt in jobbie. That china-cannon will be probably quite loud. If you get something I've got a fair bit of free time at the moment, can give you a hand fitting it up. I know my way around an Impreza quite well. The most difficult bolts will be the ones on the back of the turbo, they're a pig when they've not been released before.

The guy who made the top power of the day is selling a 3". Avoid exhaust shops unless you like em chopped and botched.

Correct, the cooler is not a way to be sure that it's an RS engine, but it's a way to be sure it's not an auto engine.

You need to pull the turbo unless you have very small hands, unfortunately I don't have very small hands. In BC5s at least the gauge itself is the leading failure point.

An engine with badged/lined whateveryoucallit rocker covers should have a rear facing water temp sensor except in the case of the EJ20H. A BC5 RS with single bolt coils is not running the original engine.

Only way to tell is the turbo, VF8 = RS, VF10 = GT. That said. Plenty of people have retrofitted one otno the other. An RS engine will also have an oil cooler. But in reality, the RS and GT differ by their ECU and turbo, nothing else mechanically.

V3 onwards, yes. V1 and 2. No.

BC5 or BF5 (Early Legacy RS or GT)

To be honest, you want to stick to sidefeeds with that manifold or you're just in for a world of expense. Sell your topfeeds to someone with a v7 or later and recover the cost.

Don't worry too much about those, basically, you're not going to need to get a cert for wheels. However you may not use any wheel which extends the edge of the tread outside the top lip of the guard or which would result in your overall rolling diameter differing from stock by more than 5%

Hard to tell, could be bigends or could be a blown out uppipe from the sound in the video.

In any case, something is still off, there shouldn't be a big dip in the curve there.

Erm... Early motors they're at the back of that pipe under the manifold near the turbo. Your dash is driven as above by the single wire, ECU by the dual wire.

Your turbo shouldn't be running out of puff that low down, that's gen1 Legacy material. You may want to pull it off and inspect it for wear or damage. It's also running a bit rich when the boost drags back, but that's probably as a result of said drop in boost.

machine the old pipes out (or pull them out if they've got enough left in them to do so?) and fit new ones? Not having the carb heater operational will not be good in winter (just ask any pilot )

It won't knock side to side forever given the way a crank works, the force will never be directly parallel with the bore

There's a specialist in TT engines in qtown actually... Get hold of ReubenH

Exactly, which is why unless I get the information from Subaru or my own measurements/checks there ain't no way I'm going to share it.

Okay, Going to retract my statement it seems I recieved faulty information. I can confirm that the RevD is 9.0:1 (with no distinction made between AT and MT). (can provide PDF from service manual if verification needed) I can't track down the FSM for the A/B/C so we're going to need to assume that B4-2000's data is correct. Even if I don't like using non-Subaru Genuine sources for such data. V7 WRX or STi should be 8.0:1 (prior to this WRXs were normally 8.5:1), which means plenty of boost with plenty of timing.

incorrect You win the award for most useless response of the year.

If you want to use a high-detergent oil, run 50/50 10-40 and Dexron III ATF for two weeks to a month. But be aware that if crap deposits are what is holding your engine together, it will fail. Also expect that some oil seals may fail as the detergent will remove the deposits holding worn seals from leaking.

This is actually a complete myth. I'm not sure where it comes from but it has been confirmed that the EJ206 is just an EJ205 with extra oil and water lines, as the EJ208 is just an EJ207 with extra oil and water lines (and no AVCS in case of the revD).

Where in the country are you? There's a few people around that can do the reflash for you a lot cheaper than a tuner.