Wiretap

Depending how low you ran it, the pump wheel may have failed, resulting in dodgy power steering. to bleed power steering, hold 2000rpm, with the cap on, and rotate lock to lock, holding at each extremity for 2 sec.

Actually bro, more than 25% increase in power is meant to be certed, no matter HOW you do it.

Seen it done, given removing the engine should only take you 1-2 hours, the extra hassle of doing it with the engine in seems a bit silly to me (given it will probably add 3-5 hours to the job)

That sounds like a cable-clutch transmission? the HX20s is meant to have a hydraulic clutch system. TY752VSCAA Edit: wrong trans code.

These are generally referred to as a 'GT-Limited' (red badge) to avoid confusion.

64L on those iirc

All of the following are with my usual 'im bored' driving style GT-S2: 8.3km/L Sparta: 6.3km/L nana driving both get around 10km/L

Oil leaks have no correlation to mechanical failure, unless of course they result in all your oil draining away (crankwalk and some other issues can cause them, but I've not heard of this on subarus) Rocker cover leaks, or cam seal leaks that early on, are usually as a result of idiotic installation. (failing to lubricate seals before installation, not installing them flush/straight, failing to adequately apply sealant to rocker cover gaskets, use of non-genuine seals or gaskets can all contribute to premature failure) As to 'something worse' happening, I'd highly doubt it, sounds like your mechanic just wants more of your money.

This guy must be up for a ban Agreed, thread-dredging to plug your own product when you aren't even a sponsor?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure the solid and hydraulic buckets are the same diameter, and the oil gallery that would fill the hydraulics is still present on solid lifter heads? In that case, surely it would be possible to convert the heads both ways unless I'm missing something?

Your mechanic is trying to fleece you, sounds like he fucked up and doesn't want to pay for it bro...

manual HX20s are a 3.9 ratio, manual turbos are either 4.111 or 4.444. I am not 100% sure of the stock ratio of your auto HX20s, but the R100 rear diff will not like having the extra 'roughness' of the manual gearbox very much and should really be replaced...

the solenoid you're looking for is inside the passenger's guard above the vacuum tank.

Ray, you missed an entire page of posts...

huh? I meant $50 for all four, aftermarket springs are around $250 aren't they? Seen Mates that have "been there done that" Save your money a bit longer and do it properly, in the long run it will be better for you and your wallet... When modifying a car it is best to live by the mantra: DIODIR, that is Do It Once, Do It Right.

yeah I spose thats the easiest way but just wanted to know does it normally damage the pistons or even bearings, and its the pushrod tensioner Im using............... well I think. its the one of the older legacys and WRXs cheers The damage can vary from nothing at all, to severe block/piston/head damage... I think mine's had a cambelt slippage at some point, because there's a very light ticking from one head, but I haven't noticed any other issues in 4 months.

Only way to find out is to pull the heads off. how well does it run? Also, are you using the 'swing arm' tensioner, or the 'pushrod' tensioner? the swing-arm type fail often...

No, they won't BC5A and B springs are tapered, you would need 91 to 93 springs (C and D) and as the other posts, they'd be awful

Go have a look.

AFAIK theyre longer so you may need to space your wheels out a bit.

That's AVLS, what is being discussed here is variable timing, not lift.

where are you located mate? someone from here might be able to come help you out.

Given the Gymkhana doesn't really make use of the car's power so much as its handling, a proper suspension setup and a good driver could certainly level the playing field...

Quit trolling buddy... I would recommend upgrading the entire spring/shock assembly (strut) to STi gear, you risk a mismatched spring and strut (read, bouncy, uncomfortable ride) if you upgrade only the springs. We have done this with great success in the past, it lowers the car about 30mm also. [Re-edit to make post make sense after failedit by JoKer ]

VinCode ModelCode BodyModel ColorCode TrimCode BODY ENGINE TRAIN MISSION GRADE SUS GDB022950 G11 GDBC4FH 51E B20 S 207 4W 6MT RASC N/S There you go