suubyduuby

Well, I did post on this some time back...but thought I would post back again as I was never able to draw a proper conclusion on this. I typically give the car 1.5-2mins to warm up on a cold start in the mornings, and half a minute or so if I leave it for a few hours in the day. On startup, the engine makes a definiate cold piston knock/slap sound which goes away as it warms up. Usually takes between 5-10mins to disappear depending on the type of driving - stop start, motorway etc. Also, don't give it much boost until she's fully warmed up for 10mins or so afterwards. Sounds pretty much like this: Now everything I have found points to this as being piston slap? Is this correct? I've had the car for over a year now and it's not really any different, still pretty much the same. The guy in the video says that his has been fine: "Just want to post an updated comment since I've gotten so much feedback... apparently this is NORMAL. My cars been running strong for over a year now and 40,000km later, not a problem.  So relax and enjoy the car. "

Ultra Multi-Purpose Turbo Timer Model No 4705 Turbo-Monitor http://www.autojoy.com.au/main/brand/ultra.htm Next model on but similiar: http://hirano-tire.com/brand/ultra/nagai32.html

Will go have a look ;D

Crazy stuff - that's the same unit that was on our JDM B4. Its a turbo timer, digital boost guage and speed meter. Had an additional digital boost sensor in the engine bay plumbed into one of the vac hoses from the black box of doom. Unfortunately when it was installed in Japan, whoever put it in did something funny with the speed sensor signal (that goes to the ECU). When it was removed, car starting spitting out CEL code for the speed sensor. Somehow, the installer had routed the signal through the unit and to the ECU. When it was removed, this cut the wire causing the CEL! Worked fine when it was in though...

Hey - do you have a pic of the part?

Yeah I would imagine the knock sensor would throw it into limp-home mode. I'm guessing the knock code is due to a previously stored code in the ECU - would be interesting to see if it comes back when the ECU is reset.. Is the O2 sensor difficult to get at on the foz? I know on the Leggy its relatively easy to get to, on the LH exhaust manifold...there's a hole in the cover. How much for the O2 sensor itself?

Well, volunteered to give a friend a bit of help with his Foz which he has been having some problems with. It's an 01 S/Tb which he has had from about 30,000kms and now has done about 70,000kms. He was explaining to me that it suffers poor acceleration, kind of feel like it's holding back now and then, and that the CEL goes on and off intermittently. Went round and took it for a drive and did feel a wee bit sluggish, gave it a rev and seems to have some sort of A/F issue as the exhaust smoke looks a wee bit dark.The car is mint, never been thrashed so its not a blown turbo or anything. Was having a bit of trouble with my OBD scan tool, so did the manual method with the black plugs. The fault codes I got out of it were 22 (Knock Sensor) and 32 (Oxygen Sensor). Looking at the engine bay, the ignition arranagement is a bit different to the EJ208 in that it doesn't have direct-fire ignition with coilpacks but rather has a distributor setup like earlier WRXs. Am going to go around and reset his ECU and get him to drive it for a week and see what happens. But in the meantime, any ideas? Is this typical of a failing O2 sensor?

Well, a friend of mine has owned an 03 NZ-NEW Leggy GT and then an 04 Leggy GT ex-Japan. Both were the tiptronic versions. For a start, completely different powerband to the twin turbos. Very nice to drive - have a feeling the NZ-new one had cruise control and Japanese one didn't. NZ one was detuned to run on 95 octane though - Jap one a bit quicker. But most are ex-Japan anyway, unless you buy from Wingers etc But yeah, real smooth power. Mileage wise the one's he owned were 50-60kms - would imagine high k's ones would suffer from many of the common prob's on the earlier Leggys. For more info, check out OZLiberty and NASIOC forums - there are few guys one those forums with BL/BP Leggys.

Check out Technical sticky at the top of Leggy forum. Connect the two black connectors underneath the dash together, turn ignition off and read flashes from CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. Use the fault code table in the stickied article to get the fault code.

Yes, was going to mention this. Yeah, following on from SpotMe.... * Heatsoak: Make sure there are no obstructions in the bonnet scoop, stuff which could affect flow to i/c. Check for bent fins - too many, and the top-mount will loose cooling ability. Also remember: On really hot days esp in stop-start, you will get 'heat soak' in your i/c due to lack of flow. And boy, can aluminium hold heat...that's why it makes an ideal heatsink * Temperatures: As I'm sure you'll know, temps make a big difference to performance as well. Cold air is more dense and so your car will go a lot harder both due to this and less heatsoak in the i/c. But shouldn't make the monumental difference you desribe though... * Plugs: How many k's have you done since you had a plug change? Make sure you have the right plugs in there as well - correct heat range. Should be NGK PFR 6Gs for yours - reco'd in the service manual. * AFM: If the car has ever run a pod or aftermarket filter with an oiled filter elements, chances are this could have damaged your AFM. You can get a ball-park idea if its functioning OK by running a test with a multimeter according to the service manual procedure. I know what you mean about how the car seems to go through moods, and having my 99 GTB for almost a year and RSK's before that, I know what you mean. But I would never decsribe the fluctuation quite as bad as what you have mentioned...

Was it alarmed?

Shock sensor may need calibration. If its chirping when just standing there, sensor is being too touchy. Should only chirp if you give it a bump on the drivers door pillar...if you hit it hard enough, this can sometimes exceed the sensor's threshold and set the alarm off.

Interesting - also have seen it done on one of the vac lines coming out of the black box of doom. Should take a picture of the RSK...that has it T'd off from one of them.

Yup, see instructions for AFM testing here: http://www.tnndesign.com/cs/afm.pdf (This is an extract from the Twin Turbo fault diagnosis PDF I have...)

If you check out the factory service manual, Subaru recommends either 5W-30 or 10W-40. 5W-30 is only specified in operating temperatures in the -minus oC range as it has a wider operating temperaure range than the 10W-40. See extract from factory service manual:

Can ask my friend who's got a bit of knowledge on Suuby engines as he is a parts importer and gets them straight from Japan...and also, he is Japanese. ;D If no one else posts back, can probably find out for you?

If your getting a real 'hot' kind of smell, this is often an indication of leaking rocker cover gaskets/oil burning up on the exhaust. Check to see if your car is leaking oil and/or look for smoke indicating oil burning up on the exhaust after a good drive. Plastic burning smell? Check for any electrical problems - blown fuses, breakers etc Make sure all wires running near the turbos are heat-wrapped / protected and not touching any hot surfaces. Have seen part of a loom on a Silivia melted because it was touching a hot surface on the engine/turbo heat-shield.

Loving my OBDII scan tool. Great for clearing CEL codes without goign under the dash to connect the black/green plugs together. Works a charm on non-Suubys as well. ;D

If your Code 72 = P0072 (OBDII code number) then that's "Ambient Air Temp Sensor Circuit Low". You may find this useful for a read: http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-neon/200737-p0072-fix.html

All the S-edition's I seen have that kind of Mica-blue rally-inspred blue paint job. They're all facelift BE5's (Rev-D) - 2003. And the two I can find photos of, both have what appears to be a factory front strut brace.

Awesome site. ;D

Was interesting - read an article about the S401 recently. Finished off by saying something like "the car the Legacy always should have been". Just ashame it was a farewell gift from Subaru/STI - if they they had executed these changes in the Rev C/Rev Ds! Oh well, nothing much an EBC and Z/S controller can't fix - quite a bit cheaper than an S401 as well. ;D

That is a seriously nice kit. ;D Welcome to the forums btw.

You may be comparing the JDM and NZDM ones together. The old ones JDM B4s/GTB wagons (BE/BH) came out in 206kW (280HP) manual / 190kW (260HP) auto Auz DM (Liberty) B4 came out in 190kW manual ONLY (http://autospeed.com/cms/A_1229/article.html) The new manuals (BL/BP) too come in out JDM guise as 206KW, but NZDM vehicles get a detuned 180kW in Spec B manual form as noted by boostin. Also - we no longer get the 2.0L JDM engine, but rather a 2.5L. Think that happened around '05 ish True words. Have driven both and both are quite different. Hard to say which I like the most - I would veer towards the single-turbo BL/BP model though for better 'tuneability'. Mind you - never drove a BL in manual form only tiptronic. Still pulled pretty well - JDM *was* quicker than the NZDM which I drove!

A bit like the twin-turbo manual Leggy's are supposed to generate 206kW @ 6,500RPM w/340Nm of torque approx. A Ford Courier 3.0L turbo-diesel will generate about 120kW but 350Nm of torque. Going back to the basic physics, hp is a measure of power output - the standard measure of power being the watt. 206kW being 206,000W. HP being an alternative (traditional imperial) unit. Traditionally, torque is generally accepted as a force applied at a set distance from a pivot point. That is why it is easier to undo a wheel nut with a long spanner as although you are exerting the same force on the spanner, the torque is greatly increased due to the length of the wheel spanner. Essentially there is a link there as well - greater the torque, the less 'work' is required to achieve the same force. Relationship can be explored as follows: t = Force x Distance So....if you apply a set torque and increase the distance between the application point and the pivot point, the applied force will increase. Getting back to the question then.....torque isn't a measure of power as horsepower/kW is, but rather is a measure of the twisting 'force' exerted by the crankshaft to the drivetrain. There certainly however is a relationship between torque and power output - as generally when power is increased, torque is increased proportionally. Good explantion here as well: http://scienceblogs.com/startswithabang/2009/04/what_does_torque_in_a_car_do.php