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suubyduuby

Auckland Member
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Everything posted by suubyduuby

  1. Yeah Gerber files are fine. I can import them into Protel. What package are you using for creating your PCBs? Can also import from OrCad, PADS, P-Cad, Circuitmaker. etc
  2. Do you have the original schematics/PCB layout files? (That's if there in something like Protel or something that I can import into Altium Designer) If not all good - going to lay out a board real soon.
  3. I'm thinking on the new drive-by-wire Suuby's, you could make a mod which could automatically throttle blip on the downshift. Would require some electronic trickery, but reckon it could work. You'd have to intercept the drive-by-wire servo mechanism which controls the linkage to the throttle-body and read RPM/speed to calculate how much RPM to blip, but it *could* work. Just my thoughts anyway
  4. What kind of limit is there on the actual lumens output (in lux)?
  5. Oh....yeah, they were the ones who kinda didn't even know how to resolve the pinging issue (when we asked them). : Hmm - might try giving it a go at Winger Greenlane at some point. The BE5C had its plugs changed but to no avail. Never had anything done to the AFM though. How did you get on with that? Any difference?
  6. CHeck out their website. Most alarms have a manual disarm feature typically using the key barrel... I know the AVS website has instructions on how to disarm using this method.
  7. Yeah I'm fortunate. Have two stations both with 98 - one is 4 mins away, other is 10min. : Guess it depends where you are in NZ. :-\
  8. Great... so the Subaru ECUs DO output serial data, but obviously at a different voltage level which needs to be translated with the line driver. Cos I remember reading that there about 5 different OBDII protocols: J1850 PWM J1850 VPW ISO9141-2 ISO14230-4 ISO15765-4/SAE J2480 I was thinking if it was a CAN interace, then you would need a micro to chew through the CAN data and spit out RS232 which you can then feed into a MAX232 or FTDI chip. If thats all there is, might lay out a PCB and test it out in the next week or so. : ;D
  9. Yeah you're right. Have found my 'un-knocking' 99 GT is more powerful than the RSK, cos its not pinging and retarding boost/timing ... So you reckon Winger Greenlane should be able to do it? Prob with Sublab East Tamaki is that they had the car in for a service, noted the pinging, but when asked how to resolve it, they had no idea.
  10. You're fortunate you've got onto this quick. I heard of someone running their GT wagon on 91 for almost a year, then it blew a head gasket and caused some massive internal engine damage. Best get to a min of 95 - but 98 where you can . I even feel guilty running mine on 95 if I have to...
  11. Trace the +12V wire into your ECU - make sure you have got a solid 12V (actual will vary 13-14V depending on battery condition and whether car is on or not). Check it with a multi-meter. As smurf also pointed out, check your earth connections. From main battery, to ECU, main harnesses etc If you did a gearbox change, think about anything you might have touched electrical or before that, anything you might have done which could have led to the problem.
  12. Well if's a simple as DS has pointed out, not much more to make it USB compatible. Either buy a serial to USB converter, or could whack on a USB converter chip for 15-20 which will take it straight to a USB plug. Mmmm - real keen to build this now.
  13. I take it you must be into electronic/electrical stuff Sanchez? Same here ;D OBD to RS232 line driver? Man, that is pretty simple. Thought it would have involved some protocol translation on a micro....if its that simple, then I reckon just whack on a FTDI RS232-USB chip and you've got an OBDII to USB interface...
  14. Reckon it should be possible to build an OBD to PC interface for less than $50. Most expensive bit is the OBDII plug which you can get at Jaycar electronics for $30....am going to have a crack at this in the next month or so, as I want to monitor and do some logging on on my leggy and a friends Silvia...Who knows, maybe the possibiltiy exists for cheapie solution which could be good for diy tuners?
  15. Yeah once you have the translated wiring diagram you should be fine....job looks pretty simple BUT you really want to ensure it is reversible so you don't botch the loom if you want to reverse it in the futre...make sure you take it to a good auto sparky as well....
  16. 41 automotive still have the Z/S controllers but were saying that zerosports in japan have stopped producing the harnesses for them...so the only option is splice, unless you can track one down somewhere else or get one 2nd hand... If anyone's got a Z/S harness for a BH5 leggy and wants to sell it, give me a PM
  17. Yeah Platinums (PFR6G) in our RSK. Made quite a noticeable difference when driving - the old plugs must have been a bit on their way out.
  18. Dunno if this is a CS member or not? Selling a fibre scoop to fit over the standard hole: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Subaru/Exterior/auction-223162601.htm
  19. Instructions from the service manual for the EJ20TT: http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq107/suubyduuby/SparkPlug1.jpg http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq107/suubyduuby/SparkPlug2.jpg Cheers Matt
  20. Now that one is mint. Better K's and lower price as well - as long as service history is good, reckon that one would be a mint one.
  21. Indeed it can. Check out these vids to listen to the sound of turbo destruction: :-\ Second one shows the effects of CS in a dyno plot. But yeah I think as Reuben just mentioned, not CS but BOV flutter. Does sound different...
  22. Yeah seems pretty good. I would say a tad bit expensive though for 125,000kms. Bought my 99 GTB for less than $9k with only 90kms on it...but was bone stock as well, this has a couple of mods like exhuast and 18's. Reckon should be closer to $10k though, but maybe thats what they're going for now that you can't import then any more :
  23. So all the relays are chattering? Check ECU harness for a poor/faulty 12V rail connection. Any signs leading up to the failure? Done any work on/near the harness recently? Anything that may have spiked the 12V rail in your car damaging the ECU (would seem unlikely though)?
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