GC8E2DD

Yes, the ones you want are BBS, not Enkei.

Yes. The shortlist is: turbo oil feed leak, exhaust leak (hopefully fixed tomorrow), hopelessly weak wastegate actuator spring, surge tank bracket fab (and wiring), wideband wiring, ECU wiring + tune. To be fair I could be racing after the first three, which I hope to be soon.

Put it on your wishlist and ask for email notification.

Nice. 2017; the year of the twin scroll conversion.

They are even lighter than the ubiquitous 5 spoke 16" STi wheels! I haven't compared them to the TE37s yet, but they currently have tyres on them. Regular V7 STi wheels are really heavy.

Yes, 5x100 17x7.5 +53

Didn't someone on here make big top mounts for BP/BL Legacies? A guy in Christchurch.

They are starting to get hard to find. Just watch Trademe. A couple of sets turned up before I had the readies to buy some, and when I did have the cash it took six months for a set to come up. The similar (albeit 5x114.3) Enkei are becoming more common to see on the market now.

I guess it's worth a try. I may as well just keep trying progressively more aggressive stuff until either the rattle can paint comes off or I hit bare metal and have to start again.

Yes. I think they also came on some V7 Spec Cs. 17x7.5 +53

They are Subaru BBS.

I didn't paint them. Ultimately I will probably get @chulozumo to coat them, but for now it'd be great if I could just get the green off and put some tyres on.

After 12 years of BP5 GTB ownership (following 5 years of BG5 GTB ownership), we decided to add two cylinders, and two seats.

I'd like to know what products or techniques people have used with success here in NZ. Specifically I'm trying to remove rattle can paint from wheels (ideally) without stripping the factory paint. So far I've tried isopropyl with no success, and turpentine with minimal to no success. I'm trying to avoid blasting and refinishing them at this point. Valve hole shows the original colour.

PM @Subirex Automotive

Then go the second hand motor and let someone else take the gamble on longevity.

The hypereutectic pistons only came in from V8 onwards. Before that STis had proper forged pistons. Just weak rods.

Are you planning on keeping it or selling it once you have it running?

He means that if you buy a second hand short block you are rolling the dice on another failure.

Get a photo and try selling it on here. Might be useful stuff for a weekend racer.

227 was decapped?

How about RBF/TRD600 with braided lines, just using stock pads and rotors?

Could you take a photo of it, upload to photobucket/flickr/whatever and post the link?

It will only make a difference if the bushings are flogged out on your STi links. And you don't really need adjustable ones unless one side or the other is preloading the bar. I'm assuming you are talking about the front. As mentioned, the rear plastic C links break, and/ or their bushings eventually give out. If you are thinking of getting adjustable front ones, then don't get Whiteline for hundreds of dollars, get the ones DacerX has for tens of dollars.