basically just look for black soot coming out of the flanges - look at the flanges on the head / manifold - also manifold / up pipe and also up pipe / turbo (this can be hard to see)
you can normally hear a exhaust leak - get someone to hold a rag up the tail pipe - this will increase back pressure and make leak louder
Nope, far from it, and I dont post a load of dribble to try and make myself seem like I know everything.
6 years workin on tractors?............try 40 as an engineer......dumbdumbdumbdumbdumbdumb
anyone can be anyone in the internet - as showen in this pic
Nawww mean
i brad and im only 22
have done my time as a diesel apprentice -done full time engine building -studied advanced engine management - panel beating and the likes at polytec
have now changed to being a full time welder + work the lathe and also install the gym equipment we make at work and also carry out inspections
have owned various cars - most of my experience is with early wrxs (gc8 and gf8) and RWD nissans which is what i love
i dont know shit about twin turbo subys so dont ask me about them LOL
WOT?? WOT= wide open throttle
you do as said above - install the fuel lines - leave the vac hose off and set to 3 bar (43.5psi) - lock the adjuster up and put the vac hose back on - on idle the pressure will be lower than the static pressure u just set and on boost it will go higher
all ball bearing turbos do it even with the leak fixed - its not a thing specific to VF turbos - its a ball bearing thing - since the shaft can spin so easily - once turned off it takes a while for it to coast back to stopped - hence the noise
Think your missing the point however - vf23 bb - vf8 is journal in pretty sure same as td05
Actually know I think of it - had a turbonetics bb t70 on my old rb30- had no water cooling ports to hook up ??
But in saying that - it's designed to not have it
You would need to ask someone who's ran a bb vf without the lines
But IMO - they're there for a reason - why remove ?
Murchy man said its ok to run a TD with them off - not sure about vf tho
I wouldnt do it unless it didn't have the lines - you would have to make sure oil temp is at op temp before shut down
Thinking back about that thread about the clutch spring - no one believed me that you don't need it
Anyways - tht pipe looks horrible of you ask me - the stock one looks like it would flow better because of the cut and weld apposed to nice bends
Sounds like a leak to me and only the AFM is registering the air and more is sucking in the intake resulting in leav mixture (sucking un metered air)
To me - if AFM wiring was bung - it would run same with AFM off as it would on
Or if wiring was dodgey - it would intermittently be changing
anyone with a milling machine bro - engine rebuilders / head specalists can do it - same way they skim heads -
some general engineering shops may have it but probably not
changed my clutch - changed gearbox oil - fixed a leak on the gear box - adjusted master cylinder - fixed the botched up threads on the x member -
boy i love that insane clutch grip
dont use mild steel ! thats cave man styles
it will rust on the inside DUHH
stainless - meh - heavier than alloy and alloy can disipate heat alot faster
this ^^^^
ducting the stock air box to the front of the car will give same IAT as making a box
probably work better as all the air will be going into the intake - instead of filling the box
lol for starters how ever - if you were looking for something r33 specific - you know other vehicles parts fit right??
but anywho - wreckers are wreckers - buy cars for chips - sell parts for moon beans and make 1000000x profit on each car
The easy solution that will work
Make either a sealed box - or a box that only has one wall that seals on to the bonnet - remove the factory snorkel crap and run a flexi tube from the front into the box
Works very well and you won't have the problem of the filter getting wet and getting all dirty from road crustations