lotech49

When my MY2000 was stock it was 14.2psi primary and 15.2psi secondary...

Count me in RE050 215/45R17 x4 Cash Ready.

I just checked out the Sygic site and they say they have real time up-datable speed camera info. Do you guys know if this is the case for New Zealand?

I have a Garmin and drove over 3000km on a summer holiday with both the iphone Tom Tom app and the Garmin going. The iphone Tom Tomn was at least as good sometimes better. The graphics and the screen were definitely better, however the battery life sucks and the phone gets pretty hot, not sure if this is an issue long term. I'd sell the Garmin however you still can't load POI (Points of Interest). I have all the speed camera and mobile speed trap spots loaded into the Garmin using their POI Loader and files from this site http://www.gwprojects.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=743 There is community with workarounds for the Tom Tom app however its far from advanced http://www.tomtomforums.com/tomtom-iphone-navigator/18780-how-add-custom-voices-pois-iphone-without-jailbreaking-2.html If your Navman isn't near new or a high spec model and you aren't using POI's the go for the Tom Tom app, highly recommended.

Not to hassle you but those that know on here take you a lot more seriously if you don't use txt-speak. There a few threads on here asking the same question as you've asked and the vf26/27 is regarded as the best of the range. As to fitting issues I believe this was covered in those threads... cheers

Do a quick search on pod filters, the general consensus is that that blow expensive air flow meters (afm). Also search for resonsator delete or cold air intake, this is probably the cheapest mod to gain more power safely. You can follow this how to thanks to qwerty http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/cai.htm or I bought one of these parts as I get through a bit of water when on gravel and didn't want to lower my intake http://www.rallitek.com/hiinel.html. I also tried these intercooler pipes but didn't notice much difference for the price but it all helps. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=2622.msg30987#msg30987 An electronic boost controller is the best way to gain real power if you have a few dollars to spend. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,3326.msg43873.html#msg43873 http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,160.msg43657.html#msg43657

yellow is correct...

Yeah I'll second the Bell STi, these really seem to be one item where you get what you pay for, people who buy the Sti's or Valentines seem to be happy and get few if any false positives and a decent warning time. I have the stealth Bell STi mounted on the back parcel shelf and you'd never know its there.

Yep, pm your address and I'll send them to you...

To back up Omegah's downpipe comment I also have the Rage downpipes and also noticed a good improvement, definitely do these before the Samco pipes. Also I bought the last pipes Alert had in stock and they said any more they ordered would be more expensive... this is an expensive mod for the improvement on offer...

Yeah I just installed those turbo to intercooler Samco hoses from Alert Motorsport, to be honest didn't notice much difference although it all helps I'm sure. As the original post was about budget mods I think Qwerty's quide on how to do a resonator-delete is the best bang for buck mod. If you want to spend $400 a boost controller will give more power guaranteed. The Zerosports Sequential Controller just changes the cross-over point between the turbos...

So I checked my Blitzen and it doesn't have a front LSD, the front wheels spin in different directions when jacked up. Good call Keltik, thanks for the 'how to' test Boostin.

Cheers Boostin great tip, I'll check that tonight and post results.

Ok called on the front LSD, and fair enough I can't find the site where I read it but now I'm interested. This link is stickied in the gearbox and drivetrain section. http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html It seems to say that JDM Legacy RSK MY00 (the basis of my Blitzen) with Transmission Code TY754VBACA has a helical front LSD with confusingly a "LSD option". I'll take a look at my transmission code, is there any other external evidence of a front LSD to look for? Boostin if your in Auckland I'd happily swing past your work if you know what your looking for. I'm all for the talk on these forums being backed up with some solid evidence.

just a small detail but Blitzen's also have a LSD front diff...