lotech49

When my MY2000 was stock it was 14.2psi primary and 15.2psi secondary...

Count me in RE050 215/45R17 x4 Cash Ready.

I just checked out the Sygic site and they say they have real time up-datable speed camera info. Do you guys know if this is the case for New Zealand?

I have a Garmin and drove over 3000km on a summer holiday with both the iphone Tom Tom app and the Garmin going. The iphone Tom Tomn was at least as good sometimes better. The graphics and the screen were definitely better, however the battery life sucks and the phone gets pretty hot, not sure if this is an issue long term. I'd sell the Garmin however you still can't load POI (Points of Interest). I have all the speed camera and mobile speed trap spots loaded into the Garmin using their POI Loader and files from this site http://www.gwprojects.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=743 There is community with workarounds for the Tom Tom app however its far from advanced http://www.tomtomforums.com/tomtom-iphone-navigator/18780-how-add-custom-voices-pois-iphone-without-jailbreaking-2.html If your Navman isn't near new or a high spec model and you aren't using POI's the go for the Tom Tom app, highly recommended.

Not to hassle you but those that know on here take you a lot more seriously if you don't use txt-speak. There a few threads on here asking the same question as you've asked and the vf26/27 is regarded as the best of the range. As to fitting issues I believe this was covered in those threads... cheers

Do a quick search on pod filters, the general consensus is that that blow expensive air flow meters (afm). Also search for resonsator delete or cold air intake, this is probably the cheapest mod to gain more power safely. You can follow this how to thanks to qwerty http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/cai.htm or I bought one of these parts as I get through a bit of water when on gravel and didn't want to lower my intake http://www.rallitek.com/hiinel.html. I also tried these intercooler pipes but didn't notice much difference for the price but it all helps. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=2622.msg30987#msg30987 An electronic boost controller is the best way to gain real power if you have a few dollars to spend. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,3326.msg43873.html#msg43873 http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,160.msg43657.html#msg43657

yellow is correct...

Yeah I'll second the Bell STi, these really seem to be one item where you get what you pay for, people who buy the Sti's or Valentines seem to be happy and get few if any false positives and a decent warning time. I have the stealth Bell STi mounted on the back parcel shelf and you'd never know its there.

Yep, pm your address and I'll send them to you...

To back up Omegah's downpipe comment I also have the Rage downpipes and also noticed a good improvement, definitely do these before the Samco pipes. Also I bought the last pipes Alert had in stock and they said any more they ordered would be more expensive... this is an expensive mod for the improvement on offer...

Yeah I just installed those turbo to intercooler Samco hoses from Alert Motorsport, to be honest didn't notice much difference although it all helps I'm sure. As the original post was about budget mods I think Qwerty's quide on how to do a resonator-delete is the best bang for buck mod. If you want to spend $400 a boost controller will give more power guaranteed. The Zerosports Sequential Controller just changes the cross-over point between the turbos...

So I checked my Blitzen and it doesn't have a front LSD, the front wheels spin in different directions when jacked up. Good call Keltik, thanks for the 'how to' test Boostin.

Cheers Boostin great tip, I'll check that tonight and post results.

Ok called on the front LSD, and fair enough I can't find the site where I read it but now I'm interested. This link is stickied in the gearbox and drivetrain section. http://spda-online.ca/modules/tinycontent/rewrite/tc_28.html It seems to say that JDM Legacy RSK MY00 (the basis of my Blitzen) with Transmission Code TY754VBACA has a helical front LSD with confusingly a "LSD option". I'll take a look at my transmission code, is there any other external evidence of a front LSD to look for? Boostin if your in Auckland I'd happily swing past your work if you know what your looking for. I'm all for the talk on these forums being backed up with some solid evidence.

just a small detail but Blitzen's also have a LSD front diff...

I you do any good research its worth sharing it, better than everyone reinventing the wheel... http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/74598-toluene-so-far-so-good.html http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octaneexplained.html http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000595#000002 http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible_pg2.html http://bbs.22b.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000595;p=1

When I last rang Speedtech they couldn't reflash 99-00... http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=4771.0

You could start looking on Trademe for Mines/Prova tuned ecu's, I paid $450 for Mines tuned ecu although I've seen them go for more and less. They raise the boost, rpm limit, remove the speed limiter and increase the timing. Mines are generally regarded as being 'more agressive'. Here's a review of the Prova ecu thanks to QWERTY http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~ccgrant/prova.htm If you search my posts I put up a dyno sheet before/after some TT mods including standard vs Mines ecu, the interesting thing was there was no difference in peak power between the two ecu's however on the road the extra timing made the car feel heaps more responsive especially off boost and through the VOD. While I was waiting waiting waiting for those Cosworth bearings my engine builder rang Cosworth USA a few times to see where they were and they were good to talk to, give them a call I say...

Torque Performance in Auckland will flash the mid 2000 ecu's onwards for $1995, its expensive and no good if your pre 2000. I've looked into running a Zerosports Sequential Controller and aftermarket ecu and it should work, Dave at Torque Performance just warned that it may take longer to tune or there could be issues. You'd have to be prepared to spend some money to get this working to its best. To answer your though, no there isn't any software for early BE/BH and earlier Legacy's that you can download. MRT in Australia will do a mailorder Ecutek reflash with Torque Performance however they said to expect that maybe they wouldn't get the best results the first time round.

I'm pretty happy with my AVS except for the beeper button which is easy to push in your pocket as you walk away from the car. I think they have since changed the design of the beeper now though. The last Mongoose I dealt if in a borrowed car seemed to go off with false alarms all the time, not an issue with my AVS. Also go for the SMS option and your car txt's you if anyone messes with it (or the battery is going flat - quite useful). Keeping a baseball bat handy is a good idea if your going to run outside at night after a txt.

I bought one from Possum Bourne Motorsport for $250 or $300 and am really happy with it. http://www.possumbourne.co.nz/trans_diff_parts.html The price here of $585 seems expensive, maybe this is if you don't supply your own for them to modify? Give Kevin or Murray a call. A worthwhile mod.

Make: Subaru Model: Blitzen Legacy Year: 2000 Name Of Dyno: Torque Performance Date of Run: 06/04/09

I used one of these, http://www.rallitek.com/hiinel.html Yeah the performance increase was one of those maybe I can feel it ones, but it must of helped. It does increase the sound so its probably what your after. Using Marley pipes is a cheaper option but I spend a bit of time on gravel and going through some water so wanted to keep the intake up high in the stock position.

I just looked at those boost tap style controllers you were looking at. I don't think they're the one. I have a Grredy Profec B SpecII and am really happy with it. The main benefit of an in cabin EBC is the ability to fine tune your boost control. I found it took a lot of tweaking to find a setting I'm happy with and I still tweak more than I thought I would. The boost I get seems to vary a lot with air temperature so I change the setting if I'm doing a long night drive or day in the sun. The Greddy isn't rpm based however if you look at another of my posts you can see dyno sheets showing boost curves and they look pretty safe. http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?topic=160.msg43657#msg43657 At a standard setting I'm on 14.9 and 16.8psi and gives I'd guess 15kw of the 20kw I've got over stock. This controller has been my best bang for buck mod so far. I'll post my controller settings on that dyno sheet post this evening.

Ok so here are those dyno sheets This a comparison of a previous dyno just after my engine rebuild and no real mods and after adding Prova extractors, Rage downpipes, Gredy Profec B Spec II boost controller and a Mines ECU. During the moding process the biggest power increase I felt was raising the boost, no surprises there. The boost at stock was 14.2psi and 15.2psi and gave 158.1kWatw. Turning up the boost to 14.9psi and 16.8psi gave 180kWata. Generally I have the boost slightly higher, peaking around 17.6psi but was messing with the controller on the way to the dyno and didn't have time during the session to try different settings. What I did test is the Mines ECU vs Stock and here's the result: Surprised? I was, the Mines ECU felt heaps stronger on the road so I was really surprised peak power was pretty much exactly the same. Thinking about it though peak power is more about pumping air through the engine at wide open throttle, whereas the improvements I could feel were more about off boost performance. Specifically the cars ability to pull in third gear around town. It was also interesting that I felt the Mines had really decreased the VOD however on the dyno it really seems to have made no difference. Again I think its the power increase at less than WOT that gave the impression of dealing to VOD issues. Ultimately I'm going to convert to single turbo to generate some real power and get rid of VOD so I'm toying with selling the Mines, I'll post in 'for sale' on here if so... I'd certainly recommend the Mines for anyone running standard boost as it raises it by 1.5psi so you should able to see similar results as I have here...