sti_v9

The V9 has revised drivetrain layout to the V8, I'm don't think the shocks from a V8 will swap over. The twinscroll is pretty resposive from low revs and starts pulling from about 2500rpm. Even on the motorway at 100kph in 6th gear, put your foot down and the power is there. No need to "rape" it.

Certain brands of tyres can whine terribly when your alignment is off - particularly when toe is out of spec.

To answer your original question I dont think you should get a WRX. Its happened to many people before you - you will forever be changing parts trying to make it into an STI. You'll end up spending the same amount of money and it will still won't be an STi. I have not seen local dynos but overseas forums show tuned stock GDB STi's putting out +200kw easily.

On a side note, my stock MY05 STi made 180awkw.

Did some quick Google research, have a look here - full list of all the codes: http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44311 BTW, the code you mentioned is not on there.

I'll give you a couple of pointers since no one else has chimed in. Google should be able to tell you the model number of the start-up disc you require. You will also find it on the Pioneer Japan website, the text will be in Japanese but you will be able to make out the model codes, etc. Once you know what type of start-up disc you require you can start your search to find one. They're are a few on Ebay Japan and they do come up from time to time on TradeMe. Your best bet would to browse through the stereo section of TradeMe and look for people who are selling the Japanese dvd systems out of their cars, some times they have the start-up dvd as well.

On my V9, next to the battery is an opening that allows you to pass the cable into the front gaurd. Push it through and it will surface around the lower door hinge area, there is a rubber grommet there that will give you access to the passenger compartment. Similar to what was said above.

I tried Redline MT90 as a cure for a 2nd gear crunch on my Skyline and it didn't help. Be careful what type of oil you choose as Redline have a few different types available. Why would u think that an oil would help worn out syncros ? Not so much a crunch, gears 1 and 3-6 engage smooth as silk but 2 requires a bit more effort before it slots it. I have used Redline in the past to smooth out tired gearboxes on Skylines, I believe the oil is from their Shockproof range but mixed with another one of the oils, i cant remember which one. I'll be trying a Redline Shockproof mixed with MT90 next.

I tried Redline MT90 as a cure for a 2nd gear crunch on my Skyline and it didn't help. Be careful what type of oil you choose as Redline have a few different types available.

Both had identical mods. Fuel setup was factory injectors with a Walbro pump.

My mate has had two V7's flashed. Both had pod intake, full 3inch exhaust from turbo and a front mount. One made 220wkw at Torque Performance, the other made 228wkw at Speedsource.

When I got my Tactrix cable about 2 years ago it came with the plugs for flashing the V5 and V6. ECUFlash also has the ROM definitions for those models.

How many miles on your car? Is there oil leaking from the shocks? The inverted struts are pretty noisy and creaky and a good shock can easily be mistaken for one thats bad. When I picked up my Version 9 the rear shocks where making a knocking sound and the dealer told me that they need to be replaced. After doing some research on the net I found out it was an easy fix and only cost $10 for a tube of grease. The shafts on them tend to bind up and making a knocking sound which can be mistaken for excessive play. After greasing the noise goes away. Start with the easy stuff first before you go down the expensive route. Remember to add in the price of certification if you're going with coilovers, around $400 I think.

Don't they do 2 types of Spec-C's? The proper one that gets stripped out and used in competition, with has zero options and comes on skinny steel wheels, and the other one thats basically a normal STI with extra bits on it.

I work in construction/interior fitouts and we use http://www.rhking.co.nz/ for our metalwork. They're in Morningside and should have heaps of offcuts from various metals. Give them a call, I'm sure they will help you out.

I live in Flat Bush. There's Highbrook Auto and Sublab close by. However, I don't know if they will go out to see a vehicle and I doubt a dealer would let you take the car off the lot for an inspection. IMHO, never trust the mileage on a used imported car and always be prepared to do the 100k service as a precaution. Replacing a blown motor will be a lot more expensive. Flat Bush is not bad in terms of crime, I have parked my V9 STi and Skyline on my driveway overnight on a few occassions and never had any dramas. Insurance will insist on a 5-star alarm.

I had a similar setup in my 2003 Skyline. I ordered a double din faceplate from the dealer. I had initially ordered a kit off eBay but it looked like crap, paint finish and the quality of some of the buttons didnt match the OE finish. So I ended up paying $900 for a genuine one from Nissan, fit and finish is perfect. The Skyline one is expensive because you have to get a new climate control display, buttons and circuit board. The Subaru one might be heaps cheaper depending on the setup behind the dash panel.

Second that. I have insured cars by just giving the make and model, no VIN or rego numbers. They eventually get the rego number by themselves.

I had a knocking noise on my V9 from the rear diff/axle area when letting off/getting on the gas. Turned out to be loose axle nuts, Wingers charged around $250 to sort it out. I think theres a DIY writeup on one of the US forums, works out much cheaper.

Bearing this in mind I replaced the pads on my V9 after 33000kms. The pads didnt need changing but I did them anyway and replaced the old fluid as well. I did not skim the rotors and did not have any problems. The car would always brake smooth and straight with zero vibrations. The front pads are really easy to change as you don't have to unbolt the caliper to remove them. It's 2 or 3 pins and a big metal clip. The hardest part is pushing back the pistons but I have a special tool fot that, you can get it from Repco/Supercheap or just use your imagination and a c-clamp. I not to sure about the back but I believe I removed one bolt to swing the caliper around and remove the pads. After watching a how-to video on another forum I remembered that you don't need any special tools. Just use a flat screwdriver and the old pad to push the pistons back in.

MAF airflow for a V7: MAF (volts) Airflow (grams/sec) 0.94 1.31 0.98 1.50 1.02 1.71 1.05 1.94 1.09 2.19 1.13 2.47 1.17 2.78 1.21 3.12 1.25 3.48 1.29 3.88 1.33 4.31 1.37 4.76 1.41 5.26 1.48 6.31 1.56 7.49 1.64 8.80 1.72 10.20 1.80 11.79 1.88 13.52 1.95 15.40 2.03 17.56 2.11 19.95 2.19 22.63 2.27 25.62 2.34 28.93 2.42 32.47 2.54 38.33 2.66 44.93 2.77 52.20 2.89 60.07 3.01 68.57 3.13 77.68 3.24 87.56 3.36 98.37 3.48 110.08 3.59 122.69 3.71 136.19 3.83 150.67 3.95 166.20 4.06 182.84 4.18 200.64 4.30 219.70 4.41 240.02 4.49 254.21 4.57 269.09 4.61 276.81 4.65 284.70 4.69 292.74

You would have better luck with this question on NASIOC or IWSTI. Had a quick look on a few of the forums and this is what I found. I DONT KNOW IF ITS CORRECT AND ITS FOR THE MY05 MODEL but it should give you a starting point. Also, from playing around with my V9 STI and I know that the MAF sensor reads up to 4.99v but the ECU MAF table is only mapped to around 4.69v. I'm at work now but when I get home I'll have a look at the ROM files and put up the MAF table so you can have a look at the airflow numbers. Below is what I found on NASIOC. checked your wire colors and here's what my 05 STI says for the same wires, maybe this will help ya: -yellow w/blue stripe -> on a circuit with the fuel injectors, probably a power wire -black w/ green stripe -> goes to ECM, ground -white -> mine doesn't have a white wire listed.... on mine, this is pink with blue stripe and is the signal wire. -brown -> intake air temp signal wire; goes to ECM -green w/red stripe -> goes to "shield and sensor ground joint connector" the white wire (if pin 3) is probably your signal wire. The wiring diagram also shows that this wire is shielded, unlike the other 4 wires in that same harness.

Its pretty hard to do on the road though. Keep a constant speed, build boost and watch for traffic at the same time. I found with my V9 that the IAM starts of at 8 after an ECU reset and would go up to 16 after 5mins of driving and 2 or 3 full throttle runs. For dyno tuning it would be easier to set the IAM to 16 for the entire tuning session so you're always getting the full timing advance and then back it down to 8 once tuning is complete.

The CEL could be the AFM maxing out. I noticed this on my mates V7 as well when he was running higher boost with no tune. The AFM is mapped to around 4.6v and its quite easy to reach this limit when running higher boost.

The V7 STi runs more than 1 bar stock doesnt it? Should be around 17/18psi? Why are running a manual boost controller? If the stock setup is still present hook it back up and let the ECU handle boost. One less thing to worry about.