Blown a ring. Guess that f^<£!%€ thing wasn't a rebuilt engine now was it.
Least it's getting another one fitted now. $#!T is making me not trust mechanics anymore.
What's worse is that I could have had it all done myself for a fraction of the cost. Including buying a shed to do the work in.
It was more related to when he was starting his car. As I understood, some models use a micro switch which required the clutch to be pressed for it to be started.
Keeping in mind that I'm only running through options.
-tighten all terminals on battery and all bolts that could have been moved in the process
-check the ignition wiring under dashboard..make sure there is a good connection and also that you havent taped (or it hasnt been) taped up to anything it could pull on.
-otherwise it could be microswitch for clutch that may be spliced?
lol where can i join this "find my car" club again? ya know if everyone on that club put in a dollar a year, they could almost run a *find your vehicle and *diy retribution site.
sausie rolls and drinks for the people that join in and lol a couple dozen beers for the private investigators/tip offs bahahah..
in all honesty, justice system is a joke. Police do have lots on their plates and not enough financial support and skilled personnel to assist. Capital and corporal punishment should be brought back to instil some fear in low life scumbags and on a separate note: i for one would like the support of '300 peeps' or the world wide web helping me search and find my belongings
so most likely will just ending up increasing engine bay temps, i/c wouldnt keep up, car probably start detonating and yeah.. nothing good.. lol..
remember touching one thing doesnt just affect one thing.. its like a chain reaction, until it finds the weakest link, pin, spring, valve, etc
just found this:
- most tdo4l's are out of their efficiency range at that kind of boost pressure.
Diminishing returns kick in at about 18-19psi (1.2bar).
you just put lots of stress on the engine and not gain allot of extra power for every psi increase over that.
lol gotta remember the efficiency range and the cfm..
no point just upping the boost out of its optimum 'psi' as it will just decrease turbo life and pump less- if not hot air out. etc
somewhere on the web it has a graph of the turbos and their cfm vs turbine rpm vs psi (or something along those lines) it was saved on my old laptop before it sh*t itself.. might still be out there.
from memory it had a lot more garret stuff
sometimes it could also be the initial spike.
lemme guess, custom mods are an exhaust and intake?
also have you checked your boost gauge when it happens?
in your siamese downpipe did it have a divider that split the wastegate from the exhaust.. if it isnt the correct one or if you modified it maybe the partition/ is stopping the wastegate flap from opening?
im assuming it was working fine until you installed the downpipe
Found a CEL on the car and it refered to cam angle sensor.
Im assuming that the code is relevant to the same year v3 wrx/sti engine to ecu.
Now the query is, injector 1 pulse is weak. And now, intermittently injector two (front cylinders) on the engine isnt as strong.
Would Sherlock holmes deduction be correct in saying that this could be the problem that affects the injectors?
cheeers.
Just figuring whether to do it in stages. Already got downpipe off turbo, wanting to get the rear end sorted before doing the mid pipe.. for that custom sound/flow trial and errors etc
Question for guys that have already done this-
Is it just louder to chop off the old muffler and reWeld a new one in place ?
With a lil performance upgrade over factory?
I remember someone saying on here that the mid pipe was the only part that made a significant difference in doing the exhaust.